Stuck! OR How do I coax this washer tub out...

[turquoisedude]

OK, I'm embarrassed but I'm literally stuck here.... 

 

Having received my 'make room in the garage for a second car or I'll call the scrap guy' orders from Hubby before he left for Brazil I was anxious to part out the guts of an 80s Inglis washer that Phil and I rescued from the curb in Montreal a while back.  I knew the machine had some serious rust damage - the lip of the inner tub is shot and I had to burn the flipping agitator off the drive post.  I suspect the center post is badly rusted, too.  I had lots of fun getting the tub nut off and now, well, I just can't seem to make the dang tub budge.  

 

I have tried everything I can think of (including standing in the tub, which nearly send me arse over teakettle since the machine is no longer in a cabinet... ) but I can't seem to get the darn thing out. 

 

I'd really like to save the wash tub from this one - it looks to be in great condition and it's a smaller capacity one that could come in handy with one of Whirlpool/Kenmore/Inglis machines in my collection.  

 

Please let me know if you have any ideas!

 

[yogitunes]

well, first I would spray some oil or nut breaker fluid down the center, then, since this is only a body, presuming the tranny is off and the spin shaft if left, put this up on a few bricks, and with a rubber mallet and a large socket and extension, hammer the drive shaft down and out of it....or even have someone pull up on the tub while doing this....

let us know how you make out.....

 

[combo52]

Removing a stuck tub in a BD WP built washer

Hi Paul, you stand in the basket and simply shift your weight from side to the other several times and then get down and lift the tub out, I have done this a few hundred times, it always works. You might remember we were doing this when you were here rebuilding your 1956 WP washer.

 

[bigalsf]

Rocking back & forth

Paul, John took the words out of my mouth! It may seem crazy, but I've done the same thing too many times to count and it works every time (if you do this outside your neighbors will think you've gone nuts!)

Good luck & be careful jumping in there!

 

[turquoisedude]

Grrrr.....   I tried doing as Martin said and putting the baseplate up on blocks.  I figured I had nothing to lose by trying to get into the tub again, but still no luck!  I was being very careful, though, as the tub is not as stable as it would be in a washer.  I tried giving shaft a good dose of WD40 (all I have around the house) and after a good soak, I tried to pound, but still no luck.  I think the gods of Inglis are mad at me again...  I'll be doing a load of laundry in the 66 Sterling tonight - maybe that will reverse my fortune!   

 

I hate to give up on what looks like a good tub, but geez, this one is good and stuck. 

 

[DADoES]

I have read a recommendation to beat on the top surface of the drive block with a large mallet while pulling upwards on the basket can do the trick (now sure how exactly that's best accomplished, LOL, perhaps with two people).

 

[kenmoreman]

It will come out

I serviced these washers for years and yes every once and a while one would not come out. As a last resort I would drill the cast metal block with multiple holes and chisel the block out in pieces. It requires a little patience but you can get it this way. The block is expendable.

 

[philr]

if you do this outside your neighbors will think....

I guess no one noticed, unless one of those satellites is spying!

 

Maybe I could try that the next time I visit you! My extra weight might be enough to break it loose (or just to break it!)!

 

 

 

[jetcone]

I once had

a Frigidaire 1-18 machine with the same problem! I even had it hoisted up from the floor joists, hanging by the tub base wailing on it with a 5 lb hammer. It never budged, I don't miss it, it went to the scrape heap, it got what it deserved,I DONT miss it! 

 

But you can also try the "benign neglect" method  get some PB spray , soak, walk away , each day come back spray, soak. In a few days try the Combo method. PB does work that way  of course PB didn't exist in my early days of washerdom.

 

http://www.blastergroup.com.au/PB_Blaster.html

 

[yogitunes]

well theres your problem, for the tub and the neighbors, while standing in the tub dancing, there was no music AND you had your clothes on!

running back to my corner.....lol

 

[firedome]

Tip on the subject of penetrants...

after working on vintage cars for 40+ years, I'e found AeroKroil to be the best by far. Developed for the airplane industry, it can get in spaces as small as 1 millionth of an inch, and works far better than PB or WD... it's gotten stuff loose for me that nothing else but an acetylene torch could touch. Not sold in stores, but you can get it online and well worth the trouble if you work on old mechanical stuff.
I always keep a can of both spray and drip-can kinds on hand.

For a preservative/rust preventive, Boe-Shield is the best, also developed for airplanes, in this case for airplane storage by Boeing.

Good luck with your loosening project Paul!

 

[dnastrau]

Transmission fluid & acetone

A 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone is an excellent penetrating oil. Machinists Workshop magazine tested penetrating oils for break out torque on rusty nuts. They tested the following oils with the control being the torque required to remove a nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

WD40...................238 LBS
PB Blaster ............214 LBS
Liquid Wrench.......127 LBS
Kano Kroil.............106 LBS
ATF - Acetone 50/50 mix ...53 LBS (Home brew)

Good luck removing that stubborn basket.

Andrew S.

 

[jetcone]

Roger

never heard of those I will check them out ASAP !!

 

This is what I use for anti-seize before reassembly: