Sunbeam 2379 Mixmaster

[maggie~hamilton]

p.s.

you'll probably get better results with the video clip if you "right click" on the link and select "save file" instead of just trying to run it via the Internet.

 

[danemodsandy]

Maggie the Cat is ALIVE!

Just kidding you, Charlie ;-)

The "conflicting advice" applies to two different generations of Mixmasters. If you have an old machine completely bodied in metal (up through Model 12), then lubrication is needed. If you have a machine with a plastic upper housing and a metal lower one (with a model number beginning in "MM"), then you have what collectors refer to as a Plasticmaster, and it is not necessary to lubricate those machines.

 

[mixfinder]

Noises

Do what sings to your soul.
I don't hear any lubrication issue and this type motor needs to warm up before it will hit speed 12. Let it run for a few minutes and then try speeds 9 - 12.
If you're taking it apart, to oil, adjust the speed control at the same time. It is running a little slow on speed 1, which is hard on the switch.
I am surprised you're willing to take this one apart and attempt lubricating it but won't even try oiling your existing machines.
Good luck finding the turntable.
Kelly

 

[maggie~hamilton]

Hmm...

Well, this IS one of my "existing machines." I've had this very mixer for about 20 years. Found it in an antique store. Marked $99.99 (idiots).

Needless to say, I walked out with it for a good bit less than that -- $50.00. Course back then, even THAT was "highway robbery," but I did want the mixer very badly. I paid more for it than I should have, I guess, but it was sooo pretty! (Again, keep in mind this was back in the "appliance collectors dark ages" when "who knew" anyone else loved this stuff?!)

-------

Well, just for the heck of it I went and looked for the model number. The only thing I could find was a designation "Service No. MMB" -- I squinted to make sure the "B" was not a "12." Then 175w, 110v, 60c, and a couple of patent numbers. No serial or model number that I could locate.

It -does- have a plastic upper half, something I had never noticed before. It's so heavy, I had always just assumed it was all metal.

So maybe I won't, then, futz with taking it all apart. I reeeeally don't want to, but I do want it to run correctly.

I must say, it has not always sounded like this. When I first got it, it purred like a kitten. Over the years, after doing one too many batches of thick, heavy peanut butter cookies I guess, it started making that 'growly' noise, and it also gets quite hot, quite quickly btw. And the hotter it gets, the slower it runs. (Again, same for my turquoise machine.)

How do you adjust the speed control to give it a little more gas in the lower range? Maybe that is all it needs. And a pedestal, of course...!

 

[westytoploader]

Here's my version of the Wards MM; this one is not a Signature version but simply branded "Montgomery Ward." If I were to guess, I'd say this was from the early or mid-1970's. Kelly, do you know when this version was made? It's one of my favorite colors (Harvest Gold that is), and just like it's older counterparts it's very well-made. Fantastic mixer too, especially for batters.

 

[mixfinder]

Growler

I am MORE than happy to rebuild either or both machines for you. If you want me to talk you in, in doing it yourself, I am happy to do that as well. I am happy to send your the turntable.
Mixers all produce heat while running and it increases with a load. What is hot and what is normal heat is subjective in description.
I didn't hear bearing or bushing noise from your mixer, but the switch could be replaced, in a perfect world. Please, feel free to continue using this mixer without compunction, but my advice would be to avoid running on speed 1.
The mixer that Westy has pictured was sold through MW in the 80's. It is the same format but with a more powerful motor, a squirrel cage fan to cool the switch and air vents cut into the mixer housing for movement of more air to cool the motor and prevent burning the points in the switch.
I am more than willing to help in anyway I can, but email me off the site. I don't want you to be caught the rhetoric of others whose opinions about Sunbeam differ from mine.
Kelly
[email protected]

 

[mixfinder]

Clear as Mudd

So, if I have this straight, the Chrome MM, pictured was a mixer you had for many years. You don't need beaters for it. You do need the turntable. Until this post, you weren't aware of the model number of the MM. The 175 watt MM was the first model introduced. In 1970 the motor was beefed up to 200 watts which made a significant improvement. That said, the mixer you have is almost bullet proof.

The switch is showing the affect of some strain. You can remove the dial and use an emery board between the points on the switch to remove pitting, as seen in the picture.

Kelly

 

[mixfinder]

Adjustment

After you have sanded the points, replace the Mix-Finder dial. Be VERY careful not to over tighten the screw and be sure the washer is in place. The screw is going into a plastic assembly and its very easy to strip the threads. Then, with the rear escucheon still removed and the mixer set to, just a gnat's eye brow past 1, insert the allen wrench into the hex opening of the adjustment screw, as seen in the picture. Now, plug the mixer in and slowly turn the wrench counterclockwise until it speeds up slightly and the action sounds smooth. I usually have the beaters in while doing this, to have a visial of the speed. Too slow and it burns up the switch, too fast and you get white-out!
Kelly

 

[hoover1060]

I did not know

you could adjust that allen screw with the dial on...

Kelly thats awesome, I have always been fond of the MM style mixmaster too. years ago I had a green "Brady Bunch" model that I loved very much. Sadly it just wore out and I replaced it with the 12C that I currently have.

 

[mixfinder]

While we're at it

In this picture you can see adjustments for the the Bowl-Shift, the thicker collar on the turntable pin and the etching into the bottom of the large bowl from the beaters adjusted too close to the bottom of the bowl.
To adjust the beaters closer to the edge of the bowl too minimize scraping, loosen the adjust screw for the large bowl setting and slide to the end of it's adjustment and then re-tighten.
The turntable for models 10, 11 12, and V-14 are interchangeable. In the MM series there is a 1/4 inch collar that hold the turntable higher so it does no rub on the stand.
Kelly

 

[mixfinder]

Upsy Daisy

In this picture you can see the adjustment screw, under the mixer body were it connects to the stand. The beaters should barely rest on the bowl. The nylon button on the conical beater keeps the bowl revolving at the proper speed. With the beaters and bowl in place, the bowl should revolve in a counter clockwise motion. Too little pressure and the bowl will spin so fast it will empty the bowl just like a Unimatic. Adjusted too low and the bowl doesn't revolve. The adjustment is slightly different for stainless bowls than glass.
Kelly

 

[mixfinder]

Laboring

When mixing heavy batters, try to increase the speed beyond 3 as quickly as possible. If the mixer is slowing below the setting 2 you are at risk of doing some damage if you continue mixing for an extended period.
Using the mixer portably, in heavy batter, allows the user to guide the mixer in and out of the mass, so it can speed and cool before going back into the grind.
After a hard work out, remove the beaters and let mixer run on high speed for a minute to cool the motor. The switch will thank you.
I have a Sandlewood MM with brown handle, dial etc. that I have owned since it was new, in 1969. It is still completely stock, without a repair and was my daily driver until 2002. My daughter is using it now. With the slightest mindfullness by the user, a Mixmaster can last many lifetimes.
Kelly

 

[maggie~hamilton]

Clear as Mudd...

== So, if I have this straight, the Chrome MM, pictured was a mixer you had for many years. ==

Right.

== You don't need beaters for it. ==

Right. I found a set on eBay. However,

== You do need the turntable. ==

Right again!

> Until this post, you weren't aware of the model number of the MM. <

And right. As I explained in an email to Kelly, I had gotten model numbers, well, MIXED up haha! I really am not a collector of anything other than old vacuum cleaners although there are a couple of other things that I do enjoy having around, things like old mixers and toasters.

One of my favorite old toasters is a Sunbeam where the toast glides down and then glides back up when ready. It's a beautiful looking toaster too! The ad is kinda funny, says something along the line of "No more banging and clanking when your toast is ready!" So I have some of these things around but know very little about them such as model numbers, years of manufacture etc. I did figure the Chrome MM to be mid to late 1960s based on its overall styling and aesthetics.

The other mixer I have is the same model as the chrome one, but in turquoise. It's stored in my garage at the moment since it doesn't really match anything. About 10 years ago I painted my kitchen in white and turquoise with copper accents.

Then when the building was recently sold, our kitchen was repainted. I told the new owner I wanted it the same color as I had painted it, especially since I have a 1957 turquoise Hotpoint "No Frost 14" refrigerator! I even still had more than enough paint left over from the last time I had done it.

Well, the a##hole painted it a hideous battleship gray color -- yes, GRAY for a kitchen, and put down an even more hideous vinyl sheet floor over the original linoleum that was probably original to the building (1937). Need I say how disgusted I was... Eventually I'll paint it turquoise again but that will have to wait for a long rainy day.......

My frig is in real nice shape too but my Sigot keeps bugging me about getting a new one. He thinks this one costs a lot of money to run, and he doesn't like the color turquoise. What a cretin!

 

[maytagmark]

Thanks everyone for the Mixmaster 101 course, my model 11,12 are now well oiled machines, I've had the model 12 for about 14 years and never thought about it needing oil, I've maybe only used it about a dozen times,it was working fine,It does take a couple of minutes to get up to the 12th speed,but once it does it goes thru all the speeds perfect.

The newer almond one is 235 watts and it gets up to speed real fast. I took my hand mixer apart to oil it and discovered it had an oil hole on the cover,all along I thought that was a rivit holding the chrome part on, it was oozing some oil out of the gearbox. the nicer hand mixer I got on e-bay for 99 cents, it was missing the beaters,but I had the beaters from my grandmothers, thats the beat up one,she sure got her use out of it. I have a couple of questions, what type of oil does the hand mixer's gearbox take ?,its making some noise from that area. I have a set of mystery beaters in the pic, don't know if anybody can tell from the pic what these fit, I've had these a long time thinking they fit some type of sunbeam. Mark

 

[mixfinder]

Extra Beaters

The extra beaters are for an Oster Kitchen Center.
Any quality gear grease should work, but you can still buy Sunbeam approved gear grease by Oster. 4.99 a tube on yahoo.
Thanks for the vote of confidence on mixers. The speed setting on 10, 11 and 12 can be adjusted the same way as the MM. There is a set screw which can located while the dial is set on speed 1. You do not need to remove the escutcheon on the 10 or 11, but you do on the 12.
Kelly