Tag Parts Interchanges?

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mistereric

mistereric

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Joined
Mar 2, 2006
Messages
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Location
New Jersey (Taylor Ham)
Hi all!

I've decided I need to get my butt in gear and fix some of the Maytags in the shed. I was wondering about interchanges... seems like the best way to get everyone up and running is to buy a parts machine off craigslist.

On my new A806, I need a motor. All two speed Tag motors are the same? If I find a later 80's "brown panel" style, will that be a suitable donor?

The 126 Highlander I snagged looked very good - until i opened the case and the tub clamp disintegrated in front of my eyes. Are these all pretty much the same? I'm also worried about the motor on this guy - the gentle speed didn't work at all until i warmed the machine up in regular agitation.

Also, I have a A702S that needs an injector hose - crumbled in my hands. The part is $38 on repairclinic... ouch! Has anyone rigged up one of these somehow, or does the part exist through the 80s? The 702 also makes a scary screetch when it comes out of spin. I'll try and make a video of it... I hope it doesn't mean bad things.

Lastly, how concerned should I be about oil leaking? My daily driver 806 leaks no oil, but most of the pre-6 series seem to. Could be because they aren't being used, or maybe its just that they all need a trans rebuild...
 
All two speed Tag motors are the same?

Yes, but get a pre 90's one. They're better built and last longer.

tub clamp disintegrated in front of my eyes. Are these all pretty much the same?

Yes. The clamp is the same for all machines from at least '57-mid 90's, regardless if it's a standard or extra large tub.

the gentle speed didn't work at all until i warmed the machine up in regular agitation.

Probably piting on the contacts. If it's the orginal round style motor, it can be taken apart and the contacts can be cleaned/filed.

Also, I have a A702S that needs an injector hose - crumbled in my hands.

I'm guessing you aren't refering to the metal one. That one is impossible to find without pillaging another pre-'66 machine. Are you refering to the rubber hose that goes from the water valve to the injector or the large diameter rubber U shaped hose that goes to the metal injector to the upper tub?

http://cgi.ebay.com/206154-Maytag-W...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item230836bf95
 
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Motor

I may have a motor for you. Tag experts can tell... I have a round 71 maytag motor.. will it work for you?

I also have the comeplete 806 parts package avaiable to0.. mint control panel, light, tub rim clear window, timed bleach dispenser, 806 nipple pump, etc...

If anyone is interested in parts email me
 
I may have a motor for you. Tag experts can tell... I have a round 71 maytag motor.. will it work for you?

It will work, but I would still hold on to that original round style motor. The round style motors can be disassembled and fixed/rebuilt, unlike the newer sealed square style motors that debuted in the early 70's-on.
 
Eric -

I suggest you check ebay. I have been surprised at what I find there from time to time. Motors, timers, hoses, pumps and misc. parts - best thing to do is check by the part number, either the original or a new subbed number if that applies. There are many service, parts, and resale companies liquidating NOS parts. For me anyway, it's fun to shop for that stuff.

Gordon
 
Excellent! I'm not sure why I didn't think about ebay.

I'm guessing you aren't refering to the metal one. That one is impossible to find without pillaging another pre-'66 machine. Are you refering to the rubber hose that goes from the water valve to the injector or the large diameter rubber U shaped hose that goes to the metal injector to the upper tub?

The second one! the U Shaped one, like the one you have linked. Thanks for the heads up. Going to get a few of these.

Lebron, I think the machine has a square motor, but if the round one will work, and is serviceable, that would be great. I have a second 806, but the machine overall is in mediocre condition cosmetically. I'd be interested to see what you have in that kit!

for the injector assembly....take this unit out and replace with a 2" piece of 3/4"PVC pipe, 2 new clamps, and fasten in place with a cable tie....

Yogi - having trouble envisioning this. I thought about attaching it in some manner similar to that but i've not got anything to attach it too. I'll post a picture.

Does anyone have a breakout of the part numbers for the machine?

Thanks for all your help!
 
My mistake Eric, sorry...i thought most machines were the same when it came to this, just the position changed.....I have 1970's models, theres a hose from the water valve, connects to an "air gap"(this is what I replaced), and then another hose that also loops around and connects to a plastic piece(known as the injector, to me anyway), which fits into the slotted hole and turns and locks in place.....my models fill from the 9 o' clock position...I know some older models were closer to 11 o' clock......

if you can't find the hose, could you get another outter tub "top" unit, this will take the new injector, and allows you to have something to connect to, I know it won't be original to the machine, but only you will know, and the water will spray in along the tub instead of towards the agitator....

I can "pop" mine open and take a pic if you need one...let me know
 
Thanks for the heads up. Going to get a few of these.

These newer injector hoses are too long for the pre '66 machines, as RCD and I found out when I brought one up for his '59 142. Simply cut the hose for proper fitment and you'll be golden.
 
Success and Failure

I got in the injector hose this morning and promptly lost it. No small feat - the house really isn't all that large.

So perhaps I should get this new 806 going. No luck scoring a parts machine, but thats okay. The 702s can't get a new injector hose anyway, so I'll borrow its motor to test the 806.

Belts off the 702s in a heartbeat, motor pully loosens with an allen key and falls off in my hand. So far, so good.

Now to the 806. Belts off, and the allen key in the pully... nothing. Brace the machine and nothing. Sit on the floor, foot against the baseplate, nothing. Whack the key with a wrench; it skitters off under the workbench.

Sigh.

Out to the truck get a foot long piece of copper pipe, and make a nice lever. Just as the key is about to snap, {plink} and the set screw is loose.

Whew.

Wiggle. Pull. Tap. Nothing.

Wrap a screwdiver in a rag and pry. No good. Pully is stuck fast.

Sigh.

Get out the little 3-arm pully remover, stick a little socket on the end to push the shaft out, and start wrenching. Pully is distorting, but slowly, begrudgingly, it comes off.

Oh well. Pully is bent, but there is the one from the other motor. No biggie.

Assemble the motor and install belts and pully. For giggles, I loosen the springs and grease the damper pads. Put it all back together. Wheel the beast toards the shed door, hoses, electrics, and off we go. Fills, agitates happily. Played a little with some alternate agitators. Cleaned the bleach dispenser. Polished the chrome. Cleaned off a scratch with some Barkeepers Friend.

And hmm. Timer is not advancing.

Sigh. A motor and a timer. Had had such high hopes. This one is pretty.

Okay, enough for one night.

http://www.ericdietrich.com/photos/index.php?album=things/New+806
mistereric++7-10-2010-22-22-49.jpg
 
Don't condemn the timer when it may simply be a timer motor. That's relatively easy to find and replace. Very seldom do I replace a timer itself for a no advance. The screech you hear as the washer stops spinning is simply a dry brake assy. That's a cinch. You use a thicker oil such as transmission oil and lube it. I use an old Zoom Spout bottle so the spout will get the oil into the brake. About a tablespoon to start then spin it then stop it to spread the oil around in the brake housing. Bye bye screech!

RCD
 
Thanks for the pics.

Did that old black bakelite wringer agitator fit that 806? I tried that and it settled onto the spline but sat about 2" above the bottom of the tub. I love those old minimal 'tag agitators, but can't find one that will seat all the way down.
 
Ken,

It seemed to fit okay. I'll try again later and see how close it comes to the tub bottom.

Drew- going to try and find a parts machine. I tried to get one yesterday, but the craigslister decided not to answer emails or phonecalls.
 
Give us the timer part # (should be 204499 if it's a non sud saver machine with Permanent Press) along with the manufacture (Kingston or Mallory) and I can tell you what timer motor you need.
 
Ok. Looks like a Kingston. The machine is not a suds saver. Has perm press. Not seeing a model number on the main timer unit but I think the timer motor says 273. Does that help? Should I pull the whole mess and see if I can find another Model. Number?
 
Yeah, better take a good look and find the exact part# on the timer. The main part# will be 204499, but some timers have a -1, -2, or nothing at all after the part#. Each one of those timers use a different timer motor. On top of that, there are different motors of the above for Kingston and Mallory. Not sure why Maytag had so many damn timer motors for a common timer that can swapped around, but that's how it's.
 
MT TIMERS

Eric the kingston timers are molded black plastic and the Mallory timers are more square and have flat metal sides. The Kingston timers have 90% of the timer motor failures. If the timer motor has a white plastic gear sticking out of it, its a kingston timer motor. There are two different Kingston timer motors with this gear, they run at slightly different speeds one is marked 30/11 the other 40/11 near the gear.
 
The Kingston timers have 90% of the timer motor failures.

What made the Kingstons more susceptible to timer motor failures over the Mallory timer motors?
 
TIMER MOTOR FAILURES

Dan I don't really know why I think there were just more plastic gears in thier motors than Mallory's. Kingston timers were often used on Frigidare and Norge washers and we saw the same problems with the timer motors. Other than the motor problem which was easy to change on the kingston timers, the kingston timers were throw away timers. The mallory timers you could open up more easily and some times fix a loose rivet or adjust a contact. The Kingston timers had a smother feel when you were setting the dial, I remember one time when I was selling new MTs in about 1975 and I had a customer that was buying a new 806 pair. And she went around the showroom turning the timers on all the different MT washers and she noticed that the timer on the 806 washer turned harder than some of the other machines. We were selling the coppertone 806 display pair, so I explained that two different type timers were used in MT washers and this one had the Mallory timer. She asked if the smother turning timer could be installed in the washer she was buying, so I went back to the parts room and found that we did have a new Kingston timer for an 806 so I agreed to change it out before we delivered the machines. I remember that my boss was not happy that I went to the extra trouble to please the customer but this is what I have always done { within reason ] to help customers have good appliance experiences.
 
Thanks for the response, combo. That explains why my '77 806 timer has a smoother feel compared to my other 806's. Well, 1 Kingston out of 3 Mallory timers ain't bad.

I'm surprised your boss frowned upon swapping timers for a customer. It's not like any $$ was lost out of the deal, plus he probably gained a lifetime customer due to good customer service. I guess some people just don't get it.

I do remember crossing Dave's Appliance website a few years ago and he makes a custom replacement brass gears for the Kingston Model 60 timers. Maybe that plastic gear was the main culprit of Kingston timer motor failures.[this post was last edited: 7/27/2010-18:53]

http://www.davesrepair.com/Parts/9956650B.htm
 
Only one way to find out. The timer motor can be easily removed; It's held in place by 2 screws and 2 electrical leads.
 
Ok. Managed a few mins to get her apart today. Timer says 2-4499 and has a 12 not far but in a different typeface. Motor is a 30/11L. Ran the motor and no advance on the plastic gear, which is intact. Gets a bit warm to the touch. 110v is present on the terminals to the motor.

Ken- the Bakelite agi fits with about a fingerheight clearance.
 
I'll respond with the proper timer motor part # once I get home and dig out the book, unless someone else beats me to it.
 
A Kingston timer with part # 204499 with permanent press, without sud saver, takes timer motor 204663.
 
Thanks Dan!

Does anyone have one of those? I'm still in the market for a 2 speed motor, a motor pulley, a tub clamp, and a water level switch set or a set of buttons for an 806.
 

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