Test your microwave's power

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mattl

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My renters are moving out, and I think the house will go on the market, at a loss.  I'm going to pull the Maytag 4 in 1 microwave range hood out and keep it for myself - it Broils, Bakes, convection bakes and of course microwaves.  I scoured CL for a deal- found one, a GE Microwave Convection OTR oven for $35!

 

Drove a bit to get it, but the guy did not tell me it was a bit broken.  He had re-glued the door handle and the door latch was a joke.  GE uses a plastic slider type latch with two fingers on it.  The top one was broken, he must be tough on his appliances, and he managed to insert an "L" bracket and shape it to match the latch, wow the time that must have taken.  Anyway picked up a new latch for $3, and a new handle for $20, net cost under $60 for a very nice oven...

 

Anyway to the point, I was wondering how well it worked.  GE rated it at 900 watts, and it's had 6 or 8 years of use.  Came across a test online.  The guy claims it's pretty accurate. 

 

Here is what you do:

 

Put 1 Liter of water at room temp, he suggests 70 degree water, take a very accurate measure of the temp.

 

Put it in the microwave for 2:03 --he said it's very crucial you use that exact time.

 

Measure the temp gain.  Multiply that by 19.4 and that should be pretty close to the output power of the unit.

 

 

My "new" GE came in at 770 watts, a little low.  But my 5 year old Whirlpool 1000 watt oven came in at 814, so the GE might have held up a bit better...

 

Anyway, interesting test.

 
* Multiply the temp RISE (in *F) by 19.4.

Size, material, thickness of the container will affect the results as some of the heat goes into that and not just the water. Example, my uW will boil a cup of tapwater in about 2 min. But if I put 2 cups in a casserole it takes closer to 8m than 4m.
 
Water temperature rise test

Yes, the water temperature rise test is THE test for output power. You all are correct about the parameters but I will add two. A) Make sure the AC line voltage applied is correct while the oven is running.
Low AC line voltage or line voltage that sags under load will skew the results. B) Place the vessel in the center of the oven tray or turntable.
Regardless, both your tests seem to be on par with ovens of their age. Even new ovens vary a lot when tested.
 
This is also known as the calrimeter test-used to measure transmitter power-The test load out at our site uses a method like this to determine transmitter output power.This test was also common to test commercial transmitters-and to calibrate their power output indicator meters.For older TV transmitters-was a must-since they were modulated with a non sine wave signal.and could apply to modern digital TV transmitters.For the commercial station you would rent a water cooled calrimeter-load.Worked really well.The site needed running water to use it.
 

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