The Click-ity Clack-ity Clack Challenge

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Robert - I believe you just turn and pull upwards on the agitator shaft tube. This porcelain tube is separate from the wash tub and joined under the rubber gasket/collar at the bottom of the wash tub. They were all in pieces when I found it, I guess he was trying to remove the agitator shaft for a still unknown reason.
 
Thankyou to Westytoploader and Peteski!

Thanks for the response! Now I remember! That was sort of a dumb gimmick but, hey-- it sold a few more machines. I don't ever remember seeing a white pan like that in Westytoploaders link, in any event, that machine looked like new--must be fun to play with. Thanks fellas! -Steve
 
If it was only that easy!

Hi Greg, the porcelain agitator shaft tube came out very easily. The problem is the spin shaft is completely sized in the wash tub support hub, at least with the tub installed in the washer. It also appears that the previous owner at some point had siliconed the wash tub to the tub support hub and I cannot even separate the tub from the hub. Of course to remove the tub you don’t need to take out the 6 bolts, you just need to remove the large nut holding down the center and the hub & tub is suppose to pull off of the spin shaft together as one unit. See the picture at the link for a better explanation.

Good news thankfully I do not need to go any further with removing the tub. I was worried that there might have been a tear in the outer tub boot and that is why the previous owner tried to take the machine apart. Well since I couldn’t get the tub out I decided to test the boot by filling the outer tub full of water and not a drop leaked! YAY. So I’m going to forget about removing the tub for now and concentrate on the clutch and reassembly. Stay tuned, who knows what’s going to happen.

 
Its spins during spin as well as wash :(

Well I now know what is wrong with the Hotpoint. The clutch spider has worn down to the point of not being able to disengage from spin. Check out the link below for a further explanation. The clickity-clack was happening from abuse from the previous owner and that was not the original problem.

Any suggestions??? I have one idea, but I would be interested to hear what others think too.

 
Could you take the worn out part to an engineers workshop (such as someone who re-manufactures vintage car parts), get them to build up the worn metal by welding, then machine the restored area back to shape including restoring the groove. This sort of operation isn't unusual with vintage car repairs and the like. I even had a motor shaft restored once, a Hoover front loader washer had a siezed bearing and the shaft had turned inside the bearing, wearing a groove in the shaft. A motor rewinder welded the shaft to add metal, then put the shaft in a lathe and turned away the excess metal to give a perfect repair. It only cost me a bottle of decent white wine.

Chris
 
Hi Chris, that's a great idea, I was thinking of trying a machine shop as we call them and see if they can do something. I have one idea I'm going to try first, but I'm not confident its going to last. I'll post pictures of it tonight.
 
Looks like the perfect time to try this site out.

 
YAY for Machine Shops

Good news on the Hoptoint. I took the clutch and jaw to a machine shop today who said they can weld a new band on my clutch spider and will make the part like new. All for $10 no less! They said I might have to wait over a week because they are really busy, but at least I'll be able to get if fixed. I will post pictures as soon as I get it back from them. Hopefully sooner than later.
 
YaY!

Exciting news Robert!
Did you tell it what it was for?
I bet if you did, they were more than excited to get it redone for you!
What a great source for you if you should run into any other issues that require that type of work done for you.
Did you ever have other issues in the past with rebuilding your machines where this would have come in handy?
Very happy for you!
I just love that machine! One of a kind!
Brent
 
Update on the Hotpoint

Well for those who are wondering about the progress on the 1956 Hotpoint its been a bumpy ride. To refresh everyone’s memory, the clutch spider locking groove had worn away, so it was no longer interlocked with the Male Jaw <a href= http://www.automaticwasher.org/RESTORATIONS/1956_HOTPOINT//09@Here is the problem.jpg target=_blank>(as shown in this picture)</a>. So I took the clutch spider to a machine shop and they welded metal onto the groove and ground the new metal down perfectly smooth to form a new ring. I put the two parts together and they locked together perfectly, YAY! I greased up the parts as specified and reinstalled the entire clutch assembly. It worked perfectly, at least for 15 minutes until I noticed that it was starting to not grab and pull down the clutch spider again, DARN! So I took the clutch assembly apart again and would you believe it the new welded part held up perfectly, unfortunately it wore the all the metal off the top locking grove of the Male Clutch Jaw in no time flat! So now I have the reverse of where I started, the Male Clutch Jaw is the bad worn-away part.

Since I wasn’t ready to give up quite yet, I took the entire clutch assembly to a local coil/spring shop where I had them make me spring to fit in the depression between the Spin Pulley and the Clutch Spider. So now instead of having the clutch jaw pull the spider down, the spider is spring loaded and when the agitate solenoid is engaged the clutch spider is forced down by the spring. I then used a stronger spring on the solenoid return arm so when the solenoid is de-energized it can return the spider up to its normal spin position, overcoming the pressure from my newly made spring. It appears to work perfectly, I think the setup makes the clutch assembly slightly louder when running, but it none-the-less works! I will take a picture of this and post it tonight if I get a chance.

Now on to the timer issues with the machine.
 
Good heavens, Robert. What a frustrating ordeal. But I'm so impressed with your knowledge about these things. You always seem to think of a good, alternate plan to get around obstacles like this.

What is the timer problem? Does this model have the funky Hotpoint two-part dial where one part sets the wash time and the other is the main control? Also, does this model have the separate "short cycle" which I believe is painted in yellow on the dial?

I can't wait to see the latest pics. Once it's all complete, please consider including this beautiful machine in the dvd collection. Seeing and hearing it in operation will be like steeping back to my childhood watching the one in my Mom's kitchen.
Les
 
timer issues

Robert, I have had GREAT LUCK with T & E timers in MI, if you need the contact info let me know, congrads on your persistence with this beautiful machine. All the reading, history, photos have been very interesting to me --gregm
 
I still don`t understand why it wore the clucth jaw so fast! Are these parts out of alignment or was there another cause? Good luck Robert!
 
What did you do?

Robert,
I just read your post.
It is amazing at how such a beautiful work of art, can have so many problems.
I hope you get it all worked out on this machine.
It is in such good shape. Not to mention, it is such an interesting machine to wash in!
I know it will all work out for you!
Brent
 
So Far So Good

Hi everyone, the link will lead you to the latest picture in the album showing the clutch with is new re-engineered spring system.

Don, I'm not sure what caused the Male Clutch Jaw to wear down so quickly, while the agitator shaft forces everything into alignment, the two metals might not have been compatible.

Thanks Greg, I've used T&E for many years now too. While they do not stock Timers like MTS, they seem to do a better, more professional job with rebuilding them, if you send your timer into them. The problem with the Hotpoint timer was in the Escapement device. I took it apart tonight and was able to fix it myself. The Escapement is the clock like assembly that makes the CHUCK sound and advances the timer one increment. The two pressure bars had become weak, luckily I had other escapements to take apart and find good parts to use.

Les you are correct, this timer allows you to set the wash time separately at 15, 12, 9 6 or 3 minutes, as seen below, its set for a 12 minute wash in this picture.

Next its the water systems, I'll keep everyone posted.


12-2-2004-22-38-22--Unimatic1140.jpg.gif
 

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