mralex
Well-known member
Iheartmaytag - Spinning your shirts at 800 rpm will make them less wrinkly, the higher the speed the more wrinkles they get. At least when using a FL
The Laundry Alternative Mega just arrived
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Question for Keven or Thomas
OK, since this "Mega" spinner no longer has an adjustable timer, does it spin for a predetermined time than stop, OR will it spin indefinitely as long as the lids are closed?
Thanks!
OK, since this "Mega" spinner no longer has an adjustable timer, does it spin for a predetermined time than stop, OR will it spin indefinitely as long as the lids are closed?
Thanks!
Why would you put lightweight things in to spin at high speeds?
Kevin, it spins "forever".... I mean, until you open the lid.
A few notes.
1) Heavy cottons require longer than five minutes for optimal extraction. Seven, when spun in a GE FilterFlo, 12 when spun in a Whirlpool BD.
2) As long as one doesn't 'span' the drum with delicate fabrics, all these worries about tearing are just that, worries. I've been drying silk in faster spinners for decades without problems.
3) It's probably obvious, but it's necessary to load the heaviest items at the bottom. Because of the wonderfully large outer case, the spinner can tolerate out-of-balance conditions well. Thomas' suspension design helps there, too.
I'm really quite happy with this unit. A suggestion: A basin to catch the water which fits inside the unit when not in use would be a useful addition. One could, of course, put two or three decals on it to remind users to remove it before use and drain it before storage
).
1) Heavy cottons require longer than five minutes for optimal extraction. Seven, when spun in a GE FilterFlo, 12 when spun in a Whirlpool BD.
2) As long as one doesn't 'span' the drum with delicate fabrics, all these worries about tearing are just that, worries. I've been drying silk in faster spinners for decades without problems.
3) It's probably obvious, but it's necessary to load the heaviest items at the bottom. Because of the wonderfully large outer case, the spinner can tolerate out-of-balance conditions well. Thomas' suspension design helps there, too.
I'm really quite happy with this unit. A suggestion: A basin to catch the water which fits inside the unit when not in use would be a useful addition. One could, of course, put two or three decals on it to remind users to remove it before use and drain it before storage
).
H-Axis washers, dress shirts and creases
In general unless you are the sort of guy or girl that likes busy work, you want to not so heavily load the tub and or use low/gentle extraction for dress shirts.
You see this with the various "no iron" or whatever shirt programs on Miele, Lavamat and other European washing machines. Suggestion is to load drum to half or less capacity, and normally there are no spins between washing and rinsing. Final extraction is either short pulse spins or one quick one at high speed.
Believe what is wanting is high water levels in relation to load so things aren't so crammed inside tub.
IIRC manual for newer Miele washers recommends dress shirts to be spun at 800 or so rpms. Many dry cleaners/professional laundries also do not extract dress shirts long and or at high speeds.
Of course anyone who has done dress shirts in a Hoover twin tub will tell you what all that extracting at high speeds (in that small can) will do. Especially if you chose to "rinse" (if you can call it that) in the extractor instead of doing deep rinses.
Much of this will vary by textile; that is heavier weaves like broadcloth will crease less than say lighter weaves like poplin or percale.
https://www.appliancesonline.com.au/academy/laundry/washing-machine-spin-speed/
In general unless you are the sort of guy or girl that likes busy work, you want to not so heavily load the tub and or use low/gentle extraction for dress shirts.
You see this with the various "no iron" or whatever shirt programs on Miele, Lavamat and other European washing machines. Suggestion is to load drum to half or less capacity, and normally there are no spins between washing and rinsing. Final extraction is either short pulse spins or one quick one at high speed.
Believe what is wanting is high water levels in relation to load so things aren't so crammed inside tub.
IIRC manual for newer Miele washers recommends dress shirts to be spun at 800 or so rpms. Many dry cleaners/professional laundries also do not extract dress shirts long and or at high speeds.
Of course anyone who has done dress shirts in a Hoover twin tub will tell you what all that extracting at high speeds (in that small can) will do. Especially if you chose to "rinse" (if you can call it that) in the extractor instead of doing deep rinses.
Much of this will vary by textile; that is heavier weaves like broadcloth will crease less than say lighter weaves like poplin or percale.
https://www.appliancesonline.com.au/academy/laundry/washing-machine-spin-speed/
I like my Creda's Cottons programme set at "C" and 115F for my perma-press shirts. It does not spin between the wash and first rinse, but then spins before each of the following three rinses, but at low speed. It gives good rinsing. The final spin can be either the high speed of 1000 rpm or the slower speed achieved by clicking the slow speed rocker switch. All wrinkles come out in the dryer, but if I am washing flannel shirts in the winter, I catch it between the preliminary spin and the final spin so that I can give them a few minutes in a hot dryer before putting them on hangers and pulling out all of the wrinkles while the fabric is relaxed and hot and heavy.
I've noticed
That overloading anything - washer, spinner, dryer leads to massive wrinkles.
As does over-drying.
My AEG tumble-dryer in Germany back in the 1980's had an incredibly complicated sensor logic - all aimed at getting the clothes dry without going too far. Reverse tumbling, cool-downs, etc. It worked really, really well at preventing wrinkles. Laundress could answer this, I don't know - but my feeling is that washing heavy and light items together, small and large results in fewer wrinkles than washing all light items together in one load.
Of course, given our allergy to synthetics, we keep mangles and steam irons close to hand in our laundry room. To be honest, though, I'm not all that hysterical about wrinkles. My better half spends 30 minutes ironing clothes every morning, including the boxers.
That overloading anything - washer, spinner, dryer leads to massive wrinkles.
As does over-drying.
My AEG tumble-dryer in Germany back in the 1980's had an incredibly complicated sensor logic - all aimed at getting the clothes dry without going too far. Reverse tumbling, cool-downs, etc. It worked really, really well at preventing wrinkles. Laundress could answer this, I don't know - but my feeling is that washing heavy and light items together, small and large results in fewer wrinkles than washing all light items together in one load.
Of course, given our allergy to synthetics, we keep mangles and steam irons close to hand in our laundry room. To be honest, though, I'm not all that hysterical about wrinkles. My better half spends 30 minutes ironing clothes every morning, including the boxers.
Overloading = instant karma... PERIOD.
Never, EVER, overload anything....
And avoid underloads as much as you can too.
Never, EVER, overload anything....
And avoid underloads as much as you can too.
Every so many years when I call the parts place in Texas for motor brushes for the Creda, the guy tells me that it will keep running as long as I don't overload it and put stress on the tub bearings. Since all I use it for is shirts once a week, it's probably OK. Which is harder on the brushes, tumbling or spinning? If it's spinning, I can do the final spin in something else.
My older Miele W1070
Is preferred for shirts because it does not spin until after third rinse (short pulse), then one full spin (at 900 rpms) for a few minutes between third and fourth. After the series of graduated spins comes the final (900 or 1100 rpms), but here is the neat thing; if you advance the timer at a certain point slightly, it will stop the spin cycle and go to "fluff" then off.
Depending upon the dress shirt material (or whatever else is being washed), may just allow a short one-two minute spin at 900rpms, then finish. That seems to make give just the right extraction without much creasing.
Under loading:
Neither the Miele nor Oko-Lavamat like it much when on "Normal/Cottons/Linens", though the latter is better equipped to deal with the situation.
The Miele lacking a truly sophisticated drum balance and rhythm control will bang and clang if it cannot redistribute small loads properly. OTOH AEG will often get things right; it may take ages of balancing and redistribution, but never the less...
In fact one of reasons went looking for a Maytag wringer washer was to avoid issues of drum unbalance and stress caused. Again after shelling out over $300 to repair the suspension system on Miele, don't want to be doing that again anytime soon.
Now the Laundry Alternative spin dryer is another matter.
If load is not balanced the thing will shake, which one can live with; what cannot stand is the rattling and noise caused by plastic bits inside lid. Sounds like marbles being thrown about.
Is preferred for shirts because it does not spin until after third rinse (short pulse), then one full spin (at 900 rpms) for a few minutes between third and fourth. After the series of graduated spins comes the final (900 or 1100 rpms), but here is the neat thing; if you advance the timer at a certain point slightly, it will stop the spin cycle and go to "fluff" then off.
Depending upon the dress shirt material (or whatever else is being washed), may just allow a short one-two minute spin at 900rpms, then finish. That seems to make give just the right extraction without much creasing.
Under loading:
Neither the Miele nor Oko-Lavamat like it much when on "Normal/Cottons/Linens", though the latter is better equipped to deal with the situation.
The Miele lacking a truly sophisticated drum balance and rhythm control will bang and clang if it cannot redistribute small loads properly. OTOH AEG will often get things right; it may take ages of balancing and redistribution, but never the less...
In fact one of reasons went looking for a Maytag wringer washer was to avoid issues of drum unbalance and stress caused. Again after shelling out over $300 to repair the suspension system on Miele, don't want to be doing that again anytime soon.
Now the Laundry Alternative spin dryer is another matter.
If load is not balanced the thing will shake, which one can live with; what cannot stand is the rattling and noise caused by plastic bits inside lid. Sounds like marbles being thrown about.
Rattling noise
2 possible causes.
1) The emergency drain has a siphon cap (just like a fabric softener dispenser, but huge). As FedEx is very "gentle" with the boxes, sometimes it can fall during the shipping.
You don't need to "open" the spin dryer to fix it... simply push the drum towards the back of the unit, put your arm between the drum and the top cover until you reach the bottom, then bend the whole spin dryer to the front... the cap will fall right on your hand.
Near the 6 o'clock position you will see the emergency drain. just push the cap on it. Don't push too much or it will reduce the tolerance before the emergency drain goes off and it will go off if you spin a duvet or a full load of towels dripping wet. and make a mess on your floor.
I designed the emergency drain to go off only if the water can't be drained fast enough (for example you forget to pull the spout) and it could end up falling on the motor.
2) the wiring harness on the back. Simply remove the cover and 1) stick the cable back to it's adhesive double sided tape or 2) stick the cable with a large drop of hot glue every 2 or 3 inches.
2 possible causes.
1) The emergency drain has a siphon cap (just like a fabric softener dispenser, but huge). As FedEx is very "gentle" with the boxes, sometimes it can fall during the shipping.
You don't need to "open" the spin dryer to fix it... simply push the drum towards the back of the unit, put your arm between the drum and the top cover until you reach the bottom, then bend the whole spin dryer to the front... the cap will fall right on your hand.
Near the 6 o'clock position you will see the emergency drain. just push the cap on it. Don't push too much or it will reduce the tolerance before the emergency drain goes off and it will go off if you spin a duvet or a full load of towels dripping wet. and make a mess on your floor.
I designed the emergency drain to go off only if the water can't be drained fast enough (for example you forget to pull the spout) and it could end up falling on the motor.
2) the wiring harness on the back. Simply remove the cover and 1) stick the cable back to it's adhesive double sided tape or 2) stick the cable with a large drop of hot glue every 2 or 3 inches.
Brakes on spin dryers
All of our major twin tub manufacturers back in the 80's came up with either a brake that when applied could not be reset unless the lid was opened and re-closed this was Hotpoints answer you pressed the lid release and waited till the machine had stopped spinning and then pressed it again to open the lid. Hoover brought out a similar device you lifted the latch and it braked to a stand still then lifted it a second time to open the lid all this is a bit of a faff but Servis did the double lid which by the time you raised the first lid and had to deal with the catch for the second the spinner was stationary so you could not get your hands in while it was moving. I have a Servis 108 that I have removed the inner lid because it quite simply is annoying. I have yet to get around Hoover double latch device and as for Hotpoint I just a spoon to prise the lid up the spinner stops and I can start the rinse much quicker without waiting and oh yes I am not quite daft enough to put my hand in whilst its spinning I went to school with a lad who did just that and still has a hook for a right arm as back in 60's the spinners did not have safety devices to prevent such accidents.
Ps I have a Miele W4449 which is a fantastic washer and has all the features mentioned above like dress shirt cycle which only spins at 600 where as cottons get the full 1600 spin. I have had 1600 spin machines before but the time they took to get to the spin used make me see red but this beauty does not worry about being balanced as Launderess says they just get on with it and go to full tilt regardless of balance issues it will abort it if too out of balance but it never complains about spinning towels and bath mats as these are heavy I had an LG before it sent me crazy never spinning and more often than not just going to the end of the cycle and leave things dripping !! So good old Miele built like a tank and as quiet and dependable as you wish. I do like using the twin tubs now and then just for the fun of it but I have to say the towels take just as long from a 2.300 rpm spin as they do from a 1600.....
All of our major twin tub manufacturers back in the 80's came up with either a brake that when applied could not be reset unless the lid was opened and re-closed this was Hotpoints answer you pressed the lid release and waited till the machine had stopped spinning and then pressed it again to open the lid. Hoover brought out a similar device you lifted the latch and it braked to a stand still then lifted it a second time to open the lid all this is a bit of a faff but Servis did the double lid which by the time you raised the first lid and had to deal with the catch for the second the spinner was stationary so you could not get your hands in while it was moving. I have a Servis 108 that I have removed the inner lid because it quite simply is annoying. I have yet to get around Hoover double latch device and as for Hotpoint I just a spoon to prise the lid up the spinner stops and I can start the rinse much quicker without waiting and oh yes I am not quite daft enough to put my hand in whilst its spinning I went to school with a lad who did just that and still has a hook for a right arm as back in 60's the spinners did not have safety devices to prevent such accidents.
Ps I have a Miele W4449 which is a fantastic washer and has all the features mentioned above like dress shirt cycle which only spins at 600 where as cottons get the full 1600 spin. I have had 1600 spin machines before but the time they took to get to the spin used make me see red but this beauty does not worry about being balanced as Launderess says they just get on with it and go to full tilt regardless of balance issues it will abort it if too out of balance but it never complains about spinning towels and bath mats as these are heavy I had an LG before it sent me crazy never spinning and more often than not just going to the end of the cycle and leave things dripping !! So good old Miele built like a tank and as quiet and dependable as you wish. I do like using the twin tubs now and then just for the fun of it but I have to say the towels take just as long from a 2.300 rpm spin as they do from a 1600.....
About the 2nd lid. This model is also sold in Brazil, so it has to be compliant to the INMETRO and ABNT standards (the Brazilian version of UL).
They are so picky and exaggerated with the safety (more than UL) that, no matter what or how fast the brakes can stop the drum, there must be extra steps before the user can reach the drum to create a natural delay.
The second lid came as a solution to the timer situation. Customers were pissed off because the timer would take almost 3 minutes to unlock the lid, even if you unplug the unit. So the solution was adding the second lid, so when the user opens the first lid and the brakes instantly go off and start stopping the drum and the few seconds "wasted" to unlock the two latches and lift the second lid is more than enough for the drum to stop.
They are so picky and exaggerated with the safety (more than UL) that, no matter what or how fast the brakes can stop the drum, there must be extra steps before the user can reach the drum to create a natural delay.
The second lid came as a solution to the timer situation. Customers were pissed off because the timer would take almost 3 minutes to unlock the lid, even if you unplug the unit. So the solution was adding the second lid, so when the user opens the first lid and the brakes instantly go off and start stopping the drum and the few seconds "wasted" to unlock the two latches and lift the second lid is more than enough for the drum to stop.
Hi Thomas
We have an older unit of the LA spin dryer:
http://www.greenoptions.com/products/the-laundry-alternative-inc-centrifugal-spin-dryer
It only makes the god awful racket when load is unbalanced, otherwise when things are smooth as silk, the thing is rather quiet.
If it is late and worried about waking people up will abort spin and redistribute. Otherwise for the three or so minutes will just put up with the noise. After all coming from using a Hoover twin tub am rather use noise. *LOL*
We have an older unit of the LA spin dryer:
http://www.greenoptions.com/products/the-laundry-alternative-inc-centrifugal-spin-dryer
It only makes the god awful racket when load is unbalanced, otherwise when things are smooth as silk, the thing is rather quiet.
If it is late and worried about waking people up will abort spin and redistribute. Otherwise for the three or so minutes will just put up with the noise. After all coming from using a Hoover twin tub am rather use noise. *LOL*
rolls_rapide
Well-known member
Gravity Drain
What's with the obsession to gravity drain?!
Wouldn't it be 'oh so much more convenient' to have it pumped out via a hose?
After all, Hoover and Creda managed it donkey's years ago.
What's with the obsession to gravity drain?!
Wouldn't it be 'oh so much more convenient' to have it pumped out via a hose?
After all, Hoover and Creda managed it donkey's years ago.
iheartmaytag
Well-known member
Gravity drain
I would guess is better, because it is simpler. You don't have the added components of a pump, hoses etc.
I would guess is better, because it is simpler. You don't have the added components of a pump, hoses etc.
rolls_rapide
Well-known member
With pumped drain, it is possible to rinse in the spinner (Hoover Spinarinse).
And you wouldn't have the hassle of buckets and bending down to lift them either.
And you wouldn't have the hassle of buckets and bending down to lift them either.
What's with the obsession to gravity drain?!
Simple, one less thing to break down and or that wear out.
Then there is the same as with commercial washing machines; using a dump valve/drain means water/suds can be extracted fully and at force without having to worry about a pump being overwhelmed by too much water/suds at once.
Portability of spin dryers/extractors is enhanced as they can be placed anywhere, not just near a sink. This is a boon when having to deal with laundry that is in various stages of wet; from sopping to stages of wrung out.
Keep in mind also just having a pump is no panacea. If you've read owner's manuals for nearly all washing machines there is a maximum distance and height the pump is capable of pushing water.
Oh and with a pump/hose you'd have to find ways to drain whatever water is not pushed into drain and remains in hose before putting away. One just tips spin dryer over slightly, allow whatever water remaining to drain, then that is that.
Simple, one less thing to break down and or that wear out.
Then there is the same as with commercial washing machines; using a dump valve/drain means water/suds can be extracted fully and at force without having to worry about a pump being overwhelmed by too much water/suds at once.
Portability of spin dryers/extractors is enhanced as they can be placed anywhere, not just near a sink. This is a boon when having to deal with laundry that is in various stages of wet; from sopping to stages of wrung out.
Keep in mind also just having a pump is no panacea. If you've read owner's manuals for nearly all washing machines there is a maximum distance and height the pump is capable of pushing water.
Oh and with a pump/hose you'd have to find ways to drain whatever water is not pushed into drain and remains in hose before putting away. One just tips spin dryer over slightly, allow whatever water remaining to drain, then that is that.
Let's simplify things?
Gravity drain:
2 more workers at the production line
More parts to be produced (in this case outsurced by Askoll, the only pump I trust)
Average $20 added to the final product price.
In a country that we have to compete with Chinese crap and people that simply care about the price tag, it would be a disaster.
it is really, really difficult when I go to Amazon or Walmart and I see the Nina or Mega right next to "xing ling" and "bling blong" products that cost 50% less.
And nowadays, believe it or not, some customers would complain because of the residual water left in the drain hose. (It's impossible to pump everything out). In a product that most of the times is used in the kitchen and stored in a closet.
The retractable drain spout was created because people complained about the drain spout on a previous model (2 inches protuberance). If I add a drain hose, the millenials will probably burn me like Joan of arc.
Gravity drain:
2 more workers at the production line
More parts to be produced (in this case outsurced by Askoll, the only pump I trust)
Average $20 added to the final product price.
In a country that we have to compete with Chinese crap and people that simply care about the price tag, it would be a disaster.
it is really, really difficult when I go to Amazon or Walmart and I see the Nina or Mega right next to "xing ling" and "bling blong" products that cost 50% less.
And nowadays, believe it or not, some customers would complain because of the residual water left in the drain hose. (It's impossible to pump everything out). In a product that most of the times is used in the kitchen and stored in a closet.
The retractable drain spout was created because people complained about the drain spout on a previous model (2 inches protuberance). If I add a drain hose, the millenials will probably burn me like Joan of arc.
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