the old GE :Replacing A Transmission

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geextrarinse

geextrarinse

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Jun 2, 2004
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533
Location
Hudson Valley, New York
Ok - So the good news is that the whole thing works - motor, pump, timer and such - havent tested the inlet solenoids but have no reason to believe they are bad. The Bad news is that the transmission is Shot - Just pooped out really - It DOES agitate and spin but very weakly and cannot get up to speed. I was so looking forward to the Ker Klunk but is was just a slight bang when it finished. The pump works great - good recirculation and drainage but the spin and wash are no good - if i had clothes in there it wouldn't have done anything. It does change speeds when its supposed to though.

SO... my question to all of you experienced washer repairmen is - HOW DIFFICULT IS IT TO CHANGE A GE TRANSMISSION?

I think they are still available but Im not sure - please give me your advice - anyone...

THANKS!
Matthew
 
Of all Machines....

Of all machines with tranny problems, the GE is one of the easiest to replace. I would also replace the tub boot since you will have to break the machine completely down anyway but it's not a hard job at all. I usually take Sno-Bowl and clean the outter tub too and fix any rust spots with JB weld. When you're done, you'll have a like new machine! Mark
 
Re: Transmisson Problems:

Is it possible that it might be the Clutch or Belt needing Repair/Replacement, instead of the Transmission? It might save you a lot of Money checking out everything before going out and making some unnecessary Parts Purchases and then finding out that it was something else instead of what you thought it might be wrong.

I admit that I'm not always right, but I'm just thinking about your wanting to get this operating again, but to not spend Money on possibly wrong Parts.

Good Luck with locating the Mini-Basket and Agitator Mounted Detergent Dispenser.

Peace and Happy GE Washing, Steve
SactoTeddyBear...
 
I'm with Steve...a weak spin and/or agitation could be a clutch problem, or the result of the belt not being tight enough.

When I find a viable replacement, I'm going to dive into the Dispensall one of these days and change the tranny out (case is badly corroded and spin mount is not lining up properly with the tub, resulting in an off-center spin). Not sure about the difficulty, but it doesn't look as complicated as, let's say, a BD Kenmore! I recommend you pick up the GE brand repair manual from 1990; the procedures are very detailed and will guide you through EVERY step!

Good luck and keep us posted!

--Austin
 
Brilliant!

How do I check if the belt is worn out or loose? - Thats exactly what is seems like - because it does do everything as and when its supposed to including shifting speeds from slow to fast. And this sounds like it could be it! THANKS! If its the clutch how do I tell?
 
Regarding the tranny...don't get one from RepairClinic as you'll pay a fortune. Search for a good used large-capacity FF that someone is giving away for free and pull the tranny from it. Sooner or later you'll find one...I've been looking relentlessly and have found a promising mid-1990's machine on Craigslist with a bad clutch located near me.
 
calling JP aka coldspot66

John, your two cents would be valuable I think here ... (grin)
 
Matthew, the belt should be fairly tight, with only about a half inch deflection on it. The belts on GE's are pretty durable and easy to change and tighten. Try tightening it first by losening the three bolts on the motor mount. I think they are 7/16inch bolts. It could also be the clutch, but usually when they are bad they get quite noisy. Is it slow on both agitate and spin? If so, its most likely the belt. Also, GE's dont spin well when the tranny is cold. They wont get up to speed as the oil gets very thick. Dont ever try and spin a GE below about 45degrees or one that has been out in the cold until it warms up. Hope that helps you out...........
 
Re: Belt Tension:

Hi! Matthew, "GEExtraRinse" if the Belt is slipping, you might need to loosen the Motor Bracket and slide it to tighten the Belt somewhat. I'm not an expert on the Tension Specs on a GE/Hotpoint Washer, but on a WP/Kenmore, it is approx 1/2 inch from center/neutral to either side pull/push of the Belt. If the Belt looks like it has some wear to it or if it is looking like it is shredding on the outside parts or even on the inside, it would definately be time to replace the Belt.

You might just want to replace the Belt anyway, since it wouldn't be that much of an expense and it would prevent wear or breakage later on and then having to replacing the Belt later on then.

Hopefully someone else might be able to advise you more detailed about this matter of Belt Tension. If it does seem to be Shifting properly, I would think that it is more likely the Belt and not the Clutch. "A Piece of Advise" about the Clutch, please make sure that you don't switch from Normal to Slow Agitate or Spin, with the Washer operating. That "will" cause damage to the Clutch for sure, but if you stop the Washer in any given Cycle first, it won't cause any damage to the Clutch.

Good Luck and Happy GE Washing, Steve
SactoTeddyBear...
 
Re: Repair Book:

"OOPS" I forgot to mention to you Matthew, if you don't have a GE Repair Manual and if no one else can offer you one, I've got one that I will let you have for Shipping Cost. Please E-Mail me at: [email protected] and let me know if you might need a Manual.

Peace and Good Luck with Repair's of your new find, Steve
 
transmissions

The transmission isn't hard to work on, they are getting harder to find. You have to be on the look out for GE and Hotpoint washers from the late 80's.
 
I wouldn't mess with the motor mount until I was absolutely sure that it was the motor position that is causing the belt to slip.

Again, transmission replacement is a piece of cake on a GE -- that is once you get the agitator off and the tub bolts removed. Anyone can do it. I had 6 of them in my laundromat. Never had to mess with the motor or the clutch; it was always the transmission leaking oil BADLY.

Remove the back panel and crank the machine up. You will be able to tell in fairly short order where the slippage is occuring. The motor spins at a constant speed, so either the clutch is not turning at motor speed, the belt is slipping on the clutch, and/or the belt is slipping on the transmission drive pulley. Oil leaking from the transmission may be causing the slipping. A bad clutch may be causing the slipping. Water dripping from the pump may be causing the slipping.
 
I wouldn't mess with the motor mount until I was absolutely sure that it was the motor position that is causing the belt to slip.

Again, transmission replacement is a piece of cake on a GE -- that is once you get the agitator off and the tub bolts removed. Anyone can do it. I had 6 of them in my laundromat. Never had to mess with the motor or the clutch; it was always the transmission leaking oil BADLY.

Remove the back panel and crank the machine up. You will be able to tell in fairly short order where the slippage is occuring. The motor spins at a constant speed, so either the clutch is not turning at motor speed, the belt is slipping on the clutch, and/or the belt is slipping on the transmission drive pulley. Oil leaking from the transmission may be causing the slipping. A bad clutch may be causing the slipping. Water dripping from the pump may be causing the slipping.
 
the clutch,

You migth have to take the clutch apart and carefully clean the posts and check the main bearing. Check the shoes and drum. There is an inner and outer drum. I use turbin oil and a bearing puller to pull the outer drum off. If the washer agitates and spins at the same time then it is the transmission that needs replacing. They used to make bearing replacement kits for the clutch. I am sure you can find aftermarket parts.
 
Just the belt!

I took a good look while testing it again today and it is indeed the belt - everything else works fine and pretty quietly too!

The belt on further inspection is worn, frayed annd pretty loose and it doesn't have the torque nevessary to really work at full speed so it sort of slowly moves along. I'll get a new belt and keep you all posted...

Thanks so much for your suggestions!

Matthew
 
Just fyi....generally when a GE filter flo transmission goes, you will notice the washtub moving while the machine is agitating instead of being in its usual locked position....that is a sure sign that the transmission is shot. GE washtubs do not move while the machine is agitating, unlike some Westinghouse models. A weak agitation stroke or slow spin is usually an indication of a loose belt or a damaged clutch. But the transmission is a snap to change, you just have to break down the machine, but it is not hard to do at all. I believe Sears still sells the repair manuals for those machines in their parts centers. Hope this helps......
 
They are a snap to change if:
The three tub bolts come out without breaking and the agitator is not frozen to the shaft.
 

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