Was actually thinking about you and that Thor washer
Just this week; wondering whatever happened.....
Now that one has the answer to that question am happy that you finally nabbed a long desired appliance.
Have wanted a Thor "cylinder" washer for ages as well, but never could find one in half way decent condition. Closest one has come is a vintage catalog and price list (circa 1925) from Hurley Machine Company for "Thor Washers, Ironers & Vacuum Cleaners".
Your model is "Thor #32 - Cylinder Type Electric Washer".
Even early as 1925 Thor realized and marketed these machines as "The Reversing Cylinder Principle is the time-proved *CORRECT* method of washing clothes *clean without wear*". Again commercial/industrial laundries in North America, Europe and pretty much world over long had (as they still do today) used H-axis washers. But there you had things operated by "steam" power (that drove machinery which powered belts/pulleys), and or had powerful enough electric motors to run the things.
As for construction reason why the lid has not rusted is because it was made from stamped zinc. Body/cabinet of washer sadly was made from steel (16 gauge), which explains all that rust. Inner tub is copper which explains why it hasn't rusted and the various "green" coloring you see. As for the cylinder it was made from a patented substance Hurley Company called "Luminoid". Fact it hasn't rusted and given what one knows and or has seen of other vintage laundry appliances am going with it is made from some sort of Aluminum.
Copper though expensive will not rust and is largely immune to harsh alkaline substances which is a good thing given the salts/soda, soaps and other chemicals used for washing in early part of last century. Same can be said of aluminum, though it is harmed by acids. Do *NOT* use any modern cleaner or polish on the cylinder without testing in a small area first. Made that mistake with my Simplex ironer only to have an instant darkening/blackening because the part was aluminum and reacted with the acid pH polish.
Not having the wringer/mangle is no huge loss IMHO. Just use the machine as commercial laundries did until the 1950's (or later in some instances); that is for washing and rinsing. Once all that is done move wet wash to an extractor to spin dry.
As for the cabinet sadly you have your work cut out for you. The rust must go otherwise it will continue eating away at metal. Maytag company leased or allowed dealers/repair persons to have an entire kit that included special machines that applied spray paint and or buffed/sanded. That however was for *after* rust was removed. To get at that stuff they suggested sand blasting or putting the outer cabinet into a tank of caustic chemicals. If neither was available there was always sanding, sanding and more sanding by hand.
The copper will clean up well with any standard copper polish or cleaner. Same for the cylinder.
Here is what the machines looked like when new, and have also included a thread we had awhile back on these machines.
Found this and had to share. Seems the writer was one of the most famous home economists of her time, writing many pamphlets detailing how to make your life easier with modern methods and products. This one was sponsored by the company which produced Thor washing machines, hence, the...
www.automaticwasher.org
