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Very cool!! And for the ultimate in retro, use an MS-DOS-based computer with QBASIC or GWBASIC!! Vintage PC running a vintage washer! I'm assuming that since you're using Visual BASIC, the computer you picked up was a Windows-based PC. And you could also create some "command" programs that the machine would accept as you entered them in. I saw this in Waco (GT Field Trip to Texas Tech) in 8th grade, where they had vintage IBM PS/2s connected to robotic arms...I'm sure it was nothing more than a BASIC program with a programmed user-friendly interface. For example, you typed in "X" and the arm moved left, "Z", it moved right, and so on. Now, you could create a user interface, type in "S", and then the machine would pulsate for 10 seconds, energize the spin solenoid and spin for another 30 seconds, coast for a short time and then engage the brake. Would be a great demonstration!

Will the timer be a standard Frigidaire "snappy" timer for that particular machine or are you going to have an on-board display connected to the control board?
 
Will the timer be a standard Frigidaire "snappy" timer for that particular machine or are you going to have an on-board display connected to the control board?

No Austin, the whole point of the project is to run the machine from the computer sitting on a shelf above the washer with the computer monitor displaying graphics and words to select and describe the cycle that is running. If I want to hear an increment click, I can simply program in a digitized version of a 1950’s washer timer increment click…

<EMBED SRC=http://www.automaticwasher.org/TEMP/ic2.wav AUTOSTART=FALSE LOOP=FALSE></EMBED>
 
It would be very strangly fun to controll someone else's washing machine. But I don't think I would want people controlling mine. I think this sounds like a funproject, I can't wait to see how it turns out.
 
....just wondering....

....with all of that action in the wash tub, how are you going to control all of the suds?.......Mark (I NEVER did find a detergent that didn't oversuds in the TL Maytag Neptune)
 
Mark, that's the beauty of using a Unimatic for this, in the seven years I have used Unimatics I have not once ever been able to oversuds the machine to the point that the wash tub slows down and suds locks during spin and I've had some major suds cakes before that would choke any other washer.

Although with that said, I'm going to have to experiment with the rinse cycle. I'm not sure if it would be wise to use the recirculation system during the rinse as it might end up bringing the wash suds back into the wash tub which would be counter productive. But it seems to work find in solid basket GE Filter-Flo machines, so I'm not sure.
 
All kidding aside

I think you are working on a major project, it will keep you quite busy. Actually I'm not su much wondering about all the electronics as well about how to build in a heating element and a recirculation system. I assume you have to drill holes for that in the porcelain (?) drum?
 
Unimatic1140 gets the Way-Cool Award of the month, and Gizmo gets another for the purge-tank system for water temp control.

BTW, another source of purge water is the shower before it gets hot. At minimum, save it in a bucket for toilet-flushes.

For absolute max efficiency, seems to me the best arrangement is an inclined-axis wash drum at a 15-degree angle (does not need a water-tight door seal at that point, just a deflector-shaped porthole to direct the splash back into the drum), and a vertical-axis spinner such as a SpinX or its Pakistani equivalent. For the inclined-axis wash drum, use a discarded Maytag Neptune. Refit with a programmable controller as per Unimatic1140's design or something similar. Add the purge water system as per Gizmo.

The washer mechanism would be used for all phases except final spin. Intermediate spins wouldn't have to be high-speed, and could be equipped for multiple-rinse-and-spin operation. Instead of final highspeed spin, have another low-speed spin to remove enough water to make the load non-drippy, and then transfer the load manually to the Spin-X.
 
Louis for the heater I'm going to use a Dacor dishwasher in line heater so no drilling for the heater will be necessary. But the spare cabinet I have for this project is pretty beat up so I will have no problem drilling into the porcelain cabinet to mount lots of fun new hardware.

Here is what the in-line heater looks like, I think it will work perfectly for this application...
 
Robert, Robert, Robert... Did we learn NOTHING from the mistakes of Dr. Frankenstein (you do pronounce it Frahnk-en-shteen, don't you)? While you and your merry band of supporters in this diabolical scheme look forward to witnessing the operation of your maniacal creation, I foresee nothing but calamitous ruin for everyone involved. This steroidal monster you seem hellbent on creating is just another sign that the more knuckle-dragging contingent of the Christian right is correct: THE END DAYS ARE UPON US!!!
 
Robert

I offer you a name for the creation: "the Platypus".

You probably know that the playtpus is an Australian native animal, which is quite an oddity. It has four legs and fur like a small beaver, a bill like a duck, it lays eggs (well the females do) the males have sharp spurs on their hind legs, and sharp claws on their feet with webs between the toes. The creek which passes through our land has them, though I've not seen them, they are shy critters.

The connection with your washer - when this continent was first discovered by white fellers in the 1770s, the biologists sent back samples of the native plants and animals to the scientists back in London. The stuffed platypus they sent back was such an oddity that the experts in London thought it was a fake, stitched together from parts of several different beasties. It took quite some convincing that it was real.

Chris.
 
Louis, the WO-65 cabinet I have doesn't use an outer tub, it simply throws and stores the water in the outer cabinet, so I think I'm probably going to have to make a second hole for the recirculation system. I can use standard sink drain hardware for thtat. The heater is 1200 watt, which certainly won't heat 10-12 gallons of water to boiling, but will keep the water hot and possibly boost it a bit. Yes I was inspired by vintage Australian top loaders with heaters for this and just by the fact that I like the heaters in my Whirlpool Combo and Asko washer.

THE END DAYS ARE UPON US
YAY Finally I could use a nice rest.

Good Idea Chris, the Super Unimatic could be called code named "Platypus" during the building process.

After I write the software program to run Platypus, I could put it on the web for anyone who is interested to play with it but that wont be done for a while yet.
 
Interesting......

I heard on NPR....maybe a month ago.....College boys and girls could monitor their laundry from their computers. They could check and see if any machines were available,, how much longer etc...Saving valuable study time before lugging their laundry all the way to the laundry room.
 
A flow through Heater - Fabulous Idea

Hi Robert,

A flow through heater that is part of the recirculation sounds like a great idea.

To my knowledge all of the AU Top load machines either had a round element that sat in a big circle underneath the washbowl or an indentation in the sump and a jug type element. During heating there was no recirculation or agitation, so you had to rely on convection to get all the water hot. The Thermostats on the Whirlpools where almost at the bottom of the tub, so the manuals state that preset temps on the later machines was 45deg or 60 deg C +/-15 degrees C.

Because there was no agitation when the element was on, the element was usually the full 2400W, but the manuals claim that it would still take 1-2 hours to acheive 60deg C. That was based on cold water only inlet.

Recirc would keep the temps as even as possible, and probably speed up the process.
 
Ah yes

I forgot the WO-65 didn't have an outer tub. Next question, I suppose that heating element is a 110V one? Would it be possible to use two of those heating elements and connect them to 220V? With 2400 Watts you would have a real booster.

I was looking for the Australian consumer test in which those washers were tested. I guess it's still on my old computer. It was really interesting to read about those toploaders with heaters.
 
Well that's an interesting thought Louis. I got the flow-thru heater from John Lefever, he said he thinks I could simply connect that 1200 watt heater to 220 volts as it would the become a 4800 watt heater. That sounds a bit scary to me so I'm going to try it at 120 volts first and just see how it performs. I can also buy a cheap 220 volt calrod heater and install in into the bottom sump of the outer cabinet.
 
Robert,

If you're going to use a bigger heating element you also need a thermostat to control the heating element. And also if you are using such a big heater and you would be able to reach near boiling temperatures, you must add a cool down, otherwise the drain pipes might melt. Would all the materials used in a WO-65 be able to handle such high temperatures?
 
Hi Louis, yes I realize that. The nice thing about the Dacor In-Line heater is it has two thermostats built right into it, an operating and high limit. I belive the operating is is 174F which is plenty hot. But in 12 gallons of water, it would take a very long time to raise the temperature that high.

Jon yes I know that it sounds like a slap and its just for you, for the rest of us its a recording of an 1955 increment click!
 
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