This is what 'suds valve fail' looks like....

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turquoisedude

turquoisedude

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I guess I am not fated to have a suds-saving automatic in the Ogden Laundry for the 2021 season.... the return pump on the 57 GE failed ( go ahead and say "I told you so"...I deserve it..).  I figured I could just swap in the 66 Inglis H560 to the coveted suds-saver slot by the laundry tub.  Nope.

Got 2 loads done and the washer was peeing water like a frat boy full of beer!

I suspected the suds valve was the culprit and for once my gut-feeling first diagnosis was right!

turquoisedude-2021041307490502346_1.jpg
 
That clog caused the valve diaphragm to burst, hence the leak...

On the hunt for a new valve now.  So far zero luck finding one in Canada though.

I miss my P.O. box in Vermont!

turquoisedude-2021041307555508900_1.jpg
 
Interesting!  That F&P valve diverter may just do the trick with a little creative plumbing!  Thanks, Steve, I'll see if I can hunt one down in Canada (shipping to Canada from so many eBay sellers is more often more than the purchase price of the item... fortunately I have been finding Cadillac parts IN Canada these days).
 
WP started making a diverter valve again when the Resource Saver machines were put into production. It had a plastic flapper and was a replacement for the diverter valves used in the 29" combos with the pot metal flapper, I think I remember being told.
 
The wax motor on the F&P diverter valve doesn't shift modes instantly, if that's a factor in your retrofit.

Wow that's an interesting valve, I've never seen it before. I wouldn't think the shift would take more than a couple of seconds with a max motor vs a solenoid shift, no?

That valve would be useful in a Speed Queen that tends to slosh approximately 20% of the water over the top of the tub and down the drain during wash. You could retro-fit that in line with the pump to divert water back into wash tub during non-overflow agitation periods.

 
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<blockquote>WP started making a diverter valve again when the Resource Saver machines were put into production.</blockquote> P/N 3358559?  It's also used on the Catalyst models.  They've been NLA for several years but possibly can be found used on eBay if one is patient for an offer to come up.
 
 
<blockquote>Wow that's an interesting valve, I've never seen it before. I wouldn't think the shift would take more than a couple of seconds with a max motor vs a solenoid shift, no?</blockquote> Robert, F&P used that valve for the Eco Active recirculation function on a range of agitator models for 10+ years until switching to a reversing pump.

Service doctrine advises they take "approx" 1 minute to activate and "approx" 3 mins to cool/deactivate.  I checked one of mine with an alphanumeric display via diagnostics.  It went from Off --> Heating --> On in 1 minute.  I left it on for 1 minute.  On --> Cooling --> Off took 3 mins.  I'm thinking the diagnostic is timed, and it may be timed during machine operation.

I'll test again via diagnostics later this evening with water in the tub and a pump test for how long it really, physically takes to shift.
 
I remember when the suds valve on our waterfall front Kenmore started leaking.  We were already in our house in Georgia with no set tubs, a gas water heater and the suds saver was a pain to use with the portable storage tub so my parents had it taken out, but it was fun to play with with the spring-loaded valve and pleated rubber boots on each side. It was another victim of pot metal corrosion and deterioration. 
 
Service doctrine advises they take "approx" 1 minute to activate and "approx" 3 mins to cool/deactivate.

Wow okay that's too long and wont work well for vintage machines. Looking at that part however it appears the activator lever is on the outside of the valve and it probably could be converted with a small solenoid and spring to an instant open and close valve. The conversion would take a bit of design but doesn't look challenging.
 
42-45 seconds to fully shift on (recirculate). 70 seconds to fully shift off (drain), probably more if it's on longer (heated more).

Wow yes you're right Glenn, that is too long of an open and close time to work properly. Although I do think that F&P valve could be retrofitted with a small solenoid to make the opening and closing instant.
 

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