I use the same amount as regular Tide powder.
Tide Original
- Thread starter Chetlaham
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launderess
Well-known member
You're not missing that much with Ecolab Royal Brite.
Yes, it's more concentrated which equals less per pound of laundry used, but formula otherwise isn't that much different than top shelf powder detergents such as Tide or Persil (Henkel).
https://assets.pim.ecolab.com/media/Original/10086/US-Z8-916791-ROYAL BRITE PLUS.pdf
Ecolab Royal Brite does contain sodium percarbonate, but no activated oxygen bleaching system. That means for best results on certain wash loads will require hot water at or > 140F. Commercial or industrial laundries often use "hot" water in that range anyway for wash cycles. Ecolab's literature states product's active bleaching works at temps low as 120F. Meanwhile Persil and others with activated oxygen systems will work at 104F or even low as 86F-90F (cold water).
Regarding cost remember a commercial or whatever laundry can deduct cost of supplies as CODB. They're also pricing cost of supplies into whatever service they're offering.
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Launderess, do you have any idea what temperature is officially recommended or best based on your knowledge for Tide Original and Tide Professional?
I have discovered that Tide Professional works about the same if not identically well in warm water as it does with hot water.
I have discovered that Tide Professional works about the same if not identically well in warm water as it does with hot water.
launderess
Well-known member
IIRC Tide "Professional" powder is rated for temps low as 95F which is par for course since it does contain an activated oxygen bleaching system with TAED (P&G has discontinued using NOBS).
https://pgpro.com/en-us/brands/tide-professional/powder-detergent
As for other versions of Tide powder laundry detergent cannot help you. There are so many and have been so frequent changes in formula have long since not bothered. Some have oxygen bleach but no activator, others have both.
launderess
Well-known member
Keep in mind there are "professional" laundry products and also "commercial/institutional", and there can be a difference.
Professional P&G offerings same as with those from Henkel generally are geared for OPL, home style washers (top loaders) and so forth. These products tend to have milder pH levels and perhaps include enzymes and thus will work in cooler wash temps and or longer cycles.
OTOH commercial/industrial products tend to be highly concentrated, usually don't contain enzymes and have mixtures of substances including solvents and pH adjusters designed to work in higher temps and shorter cycles. Industrial/commercial laundries rarely run total cycles longer than say 33 to maybe forty minutes. That's one or two flushes, one or maybe two (or three) washes, several rinses, then extract done and dusted.
Have given up using any top shelf laundry detergent when going to laundromat. Wash cycle is barely 10 minutes on those SQ front loaders. Enzymes don't get enough time to reach full potential in terms of cleaning power.
A commercial laundry is more likely to have an assortment of detergents, solvents, and other chemicals to add as suits a particular load. Hospital laundry is different than say meat packing/slaughtering which in turn is different than hotel/hospitality linen.
There are of course one shot/built detergents claiming to have everything needed, but some places would rather start with basics then add what's needed.
Professional P&G offerings same as with those from Henkel generally are geared for OPL, home style washers (top loaders) and so forth. These products tend to have milder pH levels and perhaps include enzymes and thus will work in cooler wash temps and or longer cycles.
OTOH commercial/industrial products tend to be highly concentrated, usually don't contain enzymes and have mixtures of substances including solvents and pH adjusters designed to work in higher temps and shorter cycles. Industrial/commercial laundries rarely run total cycles longer than say 33 to maybe forty minutes. That's one or two flushes, one or maybe two (or three) washes, several rinses, then extract done and dusted.
Have given up using any top shelf laundry detergent when going to laundromat. Wash cycle is barely 10 minutes on those SQ front loaders. Enzymes don't get enough time to reach full potential in terms of cleaning power.
A commercial laundry is more likely to have an assortment of detergents, solvents, and other chemicals to add as suits a particular load. Hospital laundry is different than say meat packing/slaughtering which in turn is different than hotel/hospitality linen.
There are of course one shot/built detergents claiming to have everything needed, but some places would rather start with basics then add what's needed.
That is about what temp I get with my 50/50 mixing valve, so that explains it. Good to know!
Lately I’ve been liking the new Tide Free and GentlePowder.
Seems to be good all around.
I beef things up a bit..
I weigh it out into a separate container and mix in 10% STPP by weight. For a white load I’ll add about 2 TBLS of pure sodium percarbonate to the machine, along with the dose of my Tide which's brew.
Line dry outside (no added scent is better than the scent of line drying) )
This is with old TL DD Kenmore.
Seems to be good all around.
I beef things up a bit..
I weigh it out into a separate container and mix in 10% STPP by weight. For a white load I’ll add about 2 TBLS of pure sodium percarbonate to the machine, along with the dose of my Tide which's brew.
Line dry outside (no added scent is better than the scent of line drying) )
This is with old TL DD Kenmore.
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Tide Free and Gentle is also good stuff. I remember getting good suds from it as well, more than Tide Original Liquid.
So if you have a large dirty load about how much ? The scoop that comes with the box? Or do you use old measurements like maybe a cup ? Know the question may sound a little weird but with these concentrated he detergents the package directions are kind of vague. I generally use enough until the water has a slippery feel to it.
It will depend on your water hardness. I have a water softener so Level 3 on the detergent cup works great for the dirtiest of loads. Harder water will require more detergent but if you have used regular Tide powder in the past, I find the same amount works just as well if not better.
Yeah that's about where I go with the scoop. About level 3 or a whole scoop if I have a full load. My clothes aren't terribly dirty except for some grease splatters and food because at work I'm basically sitting on my butt all day driving. For me though, Tide is probably the best overall. I don't think it's popularity has ever waned since it came out in the '40s.
maytaga806
Well-known member
Yea I adore the tide powda! I just got some recently, my meijer had a bigger box of the ultra oxi which I’ve always wanted to try and it works excellent. The scent is what gets me though it’s just the original scent but I feel the powder scent hasn’t changed all that much over the last decade or so, unlike the liquid which changes every two years. But the shrinkflation is absurd the boxes are way smaller for way more money now. It’s a great detergent to use with scent boosters
I don't understand why P&G has to mess with our scents. Maybe if they changed the scents back to their original fragrances, I'll reconsider any of them. Until then, no more!
These are my suds levels for an average load:
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