Tidea super, Has anyone heard of this detergent brand?

[kenmoreguy89]

Well, the label says that you don't have to use it with chlorine, which it can only mean two things, that is full of percarbonate and TAED, (which is uncommon for a powder from Asia,) or that is full of bluing that would turn rust red with chlorine.
If it is not blue then it means it does have oxygen and is not bad at all.
I only tried one "unknown source" china made powder, and it was Rinso, but it wasn't the actual Rinso of old but the 99cent dollar store private brand.
They purchased the brand license with in USA and everything cleaning related of the 99cent chain had this brand, from sponges to floor ckeaners.
Not impressed with it TBH
I tried in several occasions Chinese Tide and got a very light scent and no Oxygen.
Vietnamese Tide had a more stronger pleasant scent, but again no percarbonate.
But as I was saying that is common for detergents down there as it seems cold washes are the norm hence pointless to add percarbonate.
Omo from Vietnam was the same, but the scent was amazingly good.
Anyway you made me curious to try Tidea as well!!!
If you ever think about a detergent swap with Italy hit me up

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Talking about that....
I have used an Italian brand that copied the Tide graphics named Obló (which is the washer glass door in italian), and a Swiss detergent from Rösch group named Taid that is how an Italian, German or French and Spanish would pronounce Tide as in English.

 

[launderess]

Don't know about all of Asia, but laundry detergents with oxygen bleach and activators (usually NOBS) is very popular in Japan.

In that country most laundry is done in cool or cold water and you've never seen such brilliant whites. Addition of oxygen bleach plus activator also helps keep washing machines from developing a whiff, and adds a bit of sanitation action for laundry as well.

Bleach activator - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Yes, Japan is another matter.
In most of other asian countries they often use twin tubs and cold water or their bare hands.
Packets indeed have clear indications for for use by hand on the back.
And just like elsewhere with those washing habits, take for instance Latin America their detergents do not usually contain any oxy bleach.
Unless they are TOL.
Modern Chinese detergents formulated for h axis front loaders that also heats water may be different.
About the whites of Japan must also be said that chlorine is very common.

I don't think you can get much white and stain removal without hot water, and about the whiff in machines products for washing machine cleaning that are popular today were popular much before in Japan and with no surprise.

Americans tend to see Japanese people as extremely clean people, almost to the point of being obsessed..
That is actually a cliché I have never heard in Europe. Sure is they are diligent and cities are very clean, and I like very much the sense of civility, But what happens indoors may be another matter...
I know they also have special ultra scebtef detergents for Landry to be dried indoors, since it would take a bad smell in those drying conditions

 

[kenmoreguy89]

For that matter,the US owned oxiclean is also big in Japan.
Also, I could see they have thousands pre ttwaters, but again, no wonder about that.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Also about Japan, it appears that many modern homes do actually get hot water for their single fill washing machines by selecting the income temperature on the washing machine tap.
I could see they have these double faucets that they open and close based in their needs

 

[launderess]

"I don't think you can get much white and stain removal without hot water..."

One held same opinion until a few years ago after trying Tide coldwater (free/clear), Persil (USA Henkel), and Persil gel or powder (German versions), along with lately Miele Ultrawhite powder.

Don't do my vintage table linens in hot or boil wash to save wear and tear, and have found all of the above will shift stains and soils quite well at 80F or 100F. For added measure will add a bit of sodium percarbonate or activated Ecolab oxygen bleach when using liquid/gel format, and results are quite satisfactory.

For heavily soiled or stained linens just put them to soak overnight in one of the aforementioned liquid or gel products, next day things are usually quite clean with marks mostly gone. A quick wash in warm or even 80F water with a bit of oxygen bleach takes care of anything remaining.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

I can see how enzyme laden products such as the ones you mentioned can indeed shift certain stains in cool-warm.
However cold for me is 60F, from 85F starts to be on the warm side.
You know, being a cook and using clothes to do pretty much everything in the kitchen, from drying hands hands after touching something or squeezing parsley juice to make dried garnishing parsley, I do think certain stains or dirts will not budge in cold water ever.
That I think can be especially true for bleachable stains, such as the parsley green mentioned before or red tainted oil from tomato sauce, grease-oils is not the big issue as lipase in modern products is able to break it in lukewarm-warm, same is for many protein or starch stains Thanks to the other enzymes, but the pigments can be quite problematic if no hot water and oxygen is used.
Especially when they sit about a week waiting to have enough stuff to launder.
Also, kitchen stuff takes a very bad odour itself while cooking, even if not that dirty,its a kind of sour smell that will never completely go awayvand will pop out while ironing unless one use at least 140F and a good oxygen detergent.
No matter how much you soak 'em.
I also do not picture yellowed or stuff that sat unused for long to turn white again in cold or cool, of course I'm talking of procedures that never involves LCB or powerful whitening alternative safer products, that does well in cool water as LCB do, such as hydrosulfite which is the whitening option for the woolen garments that won't stand LCB and works great on cottons too (less on synthetics as some reacts turning grey).

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

Kenmoreguy89

I’ll have a look and see what colour it changes when I add bleach, also what is TAED?

 

[kenmoreguy89]

TAED is an oxygen activator, like NOBS Launderess linked a Wikipedia page of.
NOBS works in slightly cooler water, Taed a little hotter.
TAED is more common in Europe, while in USA and parts of Asia.
Guess in Australia there are both

 

[launderess]

"I also do not picture yellowed or stuff that sat unused for long to turn white again in cold or cool"

Given long enough contact time a good long soak with either sodium perborate or sodium percarbonate will lighten if not remove yellow from textiles. This is one of the tricks used by those who restore vintage linens. Professional/industrial laundries and dry cleaners have long know this,going back to the 1920's or so.

It isn't that oxygen bleaches totally stop working in cool or cold water, just the reaction time is far slower. Depending upon what one is after this can be a benefit rather than negative.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Well, I actually have tried this, but without good or accettabile results TBH...
Both my mother (when she was still with us) and me have a thing also for vintage linens, we used to have our stall at flea markets regularly and of course buy around.
Since you also tell me you are a vintage linen collector you well know that the yellowed stained linens are the ones going for cheap and often even the most good looking ones.
Forget the rust stained ones, which I often buy and removing the stains with fluoridric acid that removes rust instantly and immediately dropping it in the agitating washer or alkaline detergent solutiom that immeduately kills the acid.
But the yellowing, is the hardest.
I remember purchasing stuff in the past and try the long 2 days soak in the bathtub but with really no success...
At those times i was afraid to rruin the drapes or shrink some knitted stuff if i washed them in the machine or washed too hot.
Some items with long drapes i still do them by hand, that is because some long drapes tangle bad if washed in the machine.
I was 12 and still had to learn a lot at those times.
I talk about stuff with drapes because they are still the most complicated for me... and am still afraid to shrink, some drapes stand boil washes others shrinks.
Soak is of course the way to get them clean, but I cannot say I ever had success by using cold or warm water and oxygen no matter how much the soak time.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Needles to say I also learned how to restore shrinked drapes and knitted doilies etc

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Meant to write laces not drapes