I am maybe/likely buying this, can anyone ID it for me? It looks like they painted right over the name at some point, but it's priced right
Topload dishwasher ID needed
- Thread starter akronman
- Start date
Help Support :
2nd pic, last one
also: is there an end to collecting/restoring/using? 12 step group?
also: is there an end to collecting/restoring/using? 12 step group?
That is a
later (60s on) GE Mobile Maid.
"we are powerless over our appliances, and our lives are unmanageable without them."
Some may disagree, but I say "snap it up."
Lawrence/Maytagbear
later (60s on) GE Mobile Maid.
"we are powerless over our appliances, and our lives are unmanageable without them."
Some may disagree, but I say "snap it up."
Lawrence/Maytagbear
Hmmm... Must be "Mobile Maid Month"! Go for it Mark, you know you want to.... LOL
Looks like an SM-300A. 1965. Just like the one I just got (and love), but no Rinse Dispenser. Has a newer control dial on it, though. Here's a picture of the 1966 versions that had 2 lift-top racks instead of 1 :
oh no
only $20 and only 20 minutes away, so it's now mine. An old lady died and the landlord was clearing out her apartment, he knows nothing about the machine. Well, nearly a piece of trash, nearly. Take a look. You are seeing warped/faded/rotten formica and a yellowish brush-painted cabinet. Likely to match her kitchen
only $20 and only 20 minutes away, so it's now mine. An old lady died and the landlord was clearing out her apartment, he knows nothing about the machine. Well, nearly a piece of trash, nearly. Take a look. You are seeing warped/faded/rotten formica and a yellowish brush-painted cabinet. Likely to match her kitchen
more
I only spent $20
It's a Power Shower, all racks are there, a few missing tines, and it has the silverware basket.
The fixed upper rack-----does it move or do you kinda load the lower rack underneath, sort of sliding dishes from front to back? Or should it be up a notch on those shiny sidebars, so it swings up by hand when needed? The moving rack attached to the lid seems fine, it's the fixed rack that's confusingly stuck
I only spent $20
It's a Power Shower, all racks are there, a few missing tines, and it has the silverware basket.
The fixed upper rack-----does it move or do you kinda load the lower rack underneath, sort of sliding dishes from front to back? Or should it be up a notch on those shiny sidebars, so it swings up by hand when needed? The moving rack attached to the lid seems fine, it's the fixed rack that's confusingly stuck
mikepaquette
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2004
- Messages
- 338
YAY for Mobile Maid month !!!!
TG we have a month
We have a month ???
TG we have a month
We have a month ???
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I only spent $20
Most of the interior doesn't look bad
I only spent $20
Most of the interior doesn't look bad
hmmm
I only spent $20
That rust spot matches one on the bottom, no water in her yet but I strongly suspect a hole through, oh yeah. I won't yet ask for any advice, this machine is very rough and can wait to be a mid-winter project. I doubt it was used in ages.
I only spent $20
That rust spot matches one on the bottom, no water in her yet but I strongly suspect a hole through, oh yeah. I won't yet ask for any advice, this machine is very rough and can wait to be a mid-winter project. I doubt it was used in ages.
more
I only spent $20. I have to keep reminding myself so I don't get upset.
Innards look ok, all parts there, and the dispenser flips as you turn the timer thru its paces. Is the lid supposed to spring up when I push the button? Hinges and springs are good, but you have to push the lid release button while pulling on the lid. I think fresh new formica installed instead of the bowed rotten edge of the current lid would reduce friction.
Thanks to BAJAESPUMA for the above advertisements. It looks closest to SM300, nearly TOL, but maybe a year different or so? My model's yellowed plastic MOBILE MAID top handle and the 3 cycle buttons and lid release buttons all run together, where the advert shows seperated buttons, hmmmm....
I only spent $20. I have to keep reminding myself so I don't get upset.
Innards look ok, all parts there, and the dispenser flips as you turn the timer thru its paces. Is the lid supposed to spring up when I push the button? Hinges and springs are good, but you have to push the lid release button while pulling on the lid. I think fresh new formica installed instead of the bowed rotten edge of the current lid would reduce friction.
Thanks to BAJAESPUMA for the above advertisements. It looks closest to SM300, nearly TOL, but maybe a year different or so? My model's yellowed plastic MOBILE MAID top handle and the 3 cycle buttons and lid release buttons all run together, where the advert shows seperated buttons, hmmmm....
more
All this for only $20
The horrid paint job shows up in this photo. The buttons on the front lip do sort of tilt a tad, really grimy dirty there, gross. Hoses look ok( for not having a drop of water in them yet). And it almost looks like the lid can easily be rejuvenated with brand new formica countertop fit into that silver frame. But none of that until it gets running in a few months. I will need and want advice from you pros, but it's months too early, I'll forget everything you say right now. Take no offense. I remodeled my kitchen about 5 years ago with new "retro" boomerang formica, pale blue. Maybe a 2 foot square of boomerang in a contrasting color....then just appliance white on the cabinet, lordy it's sick
All this for only $20
The horrid paint job shows up in this photo. The buttons on the front lip do sort of tilt a tad, really grimy dirty there, gross. Hoses look ok( for not having a drop of water in them yet). And it almost looks like the lid can easily be rejuvenated with brand new formica countertop fit into that silver frame. But none of that until it gets running in a few months. I will need and want advice from you pros, but it's months too early, I'll forget everything you say right now. Take no offense. I remodeled my kitchen about 5 years ago with new "retro" boomerang formica, pale blue. Maybe a 2 foot square of boomerang in a contrasting color....then just appliance white on the cabinet, lordy it's sick
more
it only cost $20
no exterior rust, no dings, just bad bad brush paint job. And the lids shows warpage/damage/rot.
it only cost $20
no exterior rust, no dings, just bad bad brush paint job. And the lids shows warpage/damage/rot.
more
Only cost me $20
You can see the exterior tub rust spot that matches the interior one, yup it leaks for sure. I'm either brave or stupid, I sure as hell plugged it in out in the garage. No water hookup at all. I turned the timer thru 360 degrees, heard various solenoids and the detergent cup, etc, and minor motor hum with no motor turning. Maybe dead motor? Maybe no water and thus it shouldn't let the motor run? One spin of the dial was enough risk. Where is the water level switch?Finding a GE motor doesn't worry me, it's their bread and butter.
Tomorrow or so I'll get a close-up of the dial, but overall this is a winter project and not a rush at all. The cycles are Normal washday, Pots/Pans, and China Crystal. No buttons for no-heat dry, no buttons for adding extrra temp/heater time, etc. Simple design and one cycle on the timer, I'll search the Ephemera soon to find out more.
I'm glad it's mine, I think I paid appropriately, and I'll get to it after the holidays.
Only cost me $20
You can see the exterior tub rust spot that matches the interior one, yup it leaks for sure. I'm either brave or stupid, I sure as hell plugged it in out in the garage. No water hookup at all. I turned the timer thru 360 degrees, heard various solenoids and the detergent cup, etc, and minor motor hum with no motor turning. Maybe dead motor? Maybe no water and thus it shouldn't let the motor run? One spin of the dial was enough risk. Where is the water level switch?Finding a GE motor doesn't worry me, it's their bread and butter.
Tomorrow or so I'll get a close-up of the dial, but overall this is a winter project and not a rush at all. The cycles are Normal washday, Pots/Pans, and China Crystal. No buttons for no-heat dry, no buttons for adding extrra temp/heater time, etc. Simple design and one cycle on the timer, I'll search the Ephemera soon to find out more.
I'm glad it's mine, I think I paid appropriately, and I'll get to it after the holidays.
Courage
If you'd like some unsolicited advice( and who doesn't?) the first thing I'd do if I were you is to connect the machine to a water source, fill it with hot tap water and let the water sit in the sump for about a half and hour to warm whatever seals are there and you will be able to determine quickly whether there are any holes in the tank or around the power unit. If you can't connect it to a faucet, heat up about 2 1/2 gallons of water in a big pot and throw it into the tank.
If that's successful, plug it in, carefully, and slowly turn the dial to on and allow the machine to go through its paces if the motor decides to work. Sometimes the humming is what those models did during the fill periods.
If that's successful, go get yourself some "Scrubbing Bubbles" and some Lime Away and clean the interior. If you can get your hands on some citric acid crystals, run a cycle with citric acid in the detergent cup. These products will remove a lot of grime and then calc and rust. Even the GE service manual suggests using aluminum tape to cover up some small rust spots.
With a little money and a little work, the messed-up laminate on the top can be replaced.
The Pots and Pans and China Crystal cycles are both effectively "No Heat Dry" cycles. I think the China cycle turns the calrod off through the whole cycle and the Pots cycle leaves the calrod on during the washes and rinses but only has 5 minutes of heat during the dry period.
There should be a rating plate on the very bottom of the back of your machine. The morons who owned it before you probably painted over it. It will have the model no. and serial no. If you ever take the paint off, I'd be very interested to see a picture of that label, or you could just write all the numbers down and post them. Ordinary paint removers sometimes work very easily with non-porous surfaces like appliance enamels and metal.
This is probably a 1966 machine, but it has some parts and features of a 1965 machine and now I'm curious.
By the way, the back top rack is supposed to be "locked" in place between those two bars, but I leave it simply resting on the bottom bar so I can remove it easily if I want it out of the machine to wash tall stuff.
If you'd like some unsolicited advice( and who doesn't?) the first thing I'd do if I were you is to connect the machine to a water source, fill it with hot tap water and let the water sit in the sump for about a half and hour to warm whatever seals are there and you will be able to determine quickly whether there are any holes in the tank or around the power unit. If you can't connect it to a faucet, heat up about 2 1/2 gallons of water in a big pot and throw it into the tank.
If that's successful, plug it in, carefully, and slowly turn the dial to on and allow the machine to go through its paces if the motor decides to work. Sometimes the humming is what those models did during the fill periods.
If that's successful, go get yourself some "Scrubbing Bubbles" and some Lime Away and clean the interior. If you can get your hands on some citric acid crystals, run a cycle with citric acid in the detergent cup. These products will remove a lot of grime and then calc and rust. Even the GE service manual suggests using aluminum tape to cover up some small rust spots.
With a little money and a little work, the messed-up laminate on the top can be replaced.
The Pots and Pans and China Crystal cycles are both effectively "No Heat Dry" cycles. I think the China cycle turns the calrod off through the whole cycle and the Pots cycle leaves the calrod on during the washes and rinses but only has 5 minutes of heat during the dry period.
There should be a rating plate on the very bottom of the back of your machine. The morons who owned it before you probably painted over it. It will have the model no. and serial no. If you ever take the paint off, I'd be very interested to see a picture of that label, or you could just write all the numbers down and post them. Ordinary paint removers sometimes work very easily with non-porous surfaces like appliance enamels and metal.
This is probably a 1966 machine, but it has some parts and features of a 1965 machine and now I'm curious.
By the way, the back top rack is supposed to be "locked" in place between those two bars, but I leave it simply resting on the bottom bar so I can remove it easily if I want it out of the machine to wash tall stuff.
Calrod in the China and Pots/Utensil cycles
Ken, you are right on the money. I guess the 'no heat' for the China cycle was an attempt to protect the gold trims on some fine china which softens when heated.
I wonder also if the no-heat dry for the Pots/Utensils was more to prevent the stuff that didn't wash off from drying on solidly rather than to prevent the items from potential heat damage...
Ken, you are right on the money. I guess the 'no heat' for the China cycle was an attempt to protect the gold trims on some fine china which softens when heated.
I wonder also if the no-heat dry for the Pots/Utensils was more to prevent the stuff that didn't wash off from drying on solidly rather than to prevent the items from potential heat damage...
Mid 60s GE Mobil-Maid DW
Mark these are fun machines to play with and you can patch it up and try it out and if you really like it, then I would look for a better condition one, you know as soon as you restore it you will find a perfect unused one, LOL.
In addition to the usual problems that GE [ and everyone else had with Plasti-sol DW interiors ] these first wash arm GE DWs were fairly poor performers and the motors were prone to failure either by locking up or having a sticky relay that quickly causes the start winding to burn-up. By 1968 GE used the familiar shaded pole side-winder motor and pump with a new wash arm design that while not without problems cleaned light years better.
If your motor does not free itself, try forcing it a little with a screw-driver in the bottom of the motors cooling fan. If this does not work you will likely have to remove the complete pump and motor and start your work. It is also a good idea to at least lubricate the motor start relay and you can actually take it apart if you are really brave, doing this can keep you from ruining a motor.
Mark these are fun machines to play with and you can patch it up and try it out and if you really like it, then I would look for a better condition one, you know as soon as you restore it you will find a perfect unused one, LOL.
In addition to the usual problems that GE [ and everyone else had with Plasti-sol DW interiors ] these first wash arm GE DWs were fairly poor performers and the motors were prone to failure either by locking up or having a sticky relay that quickly causes the start winding to burn-up. By 1968 GE used the familiar shaded pole side-winder motor and pump with a new wash arm design that while not without problems cleaned light years better.
If your motor does not free itself, try forcing it a little with a screw-driver in the bottom of the motors cooling fan. If this does not work you will likely have to remove the complete pump and motor and start your work. It is also a good idea to at least lubricate the motor start relay and you can actually take it apart if you are really brave, doing this can keep you from ruining a motor.
Ephemera info
I downloaded the 1968 owners manual, it describes the Pots&pans as the same WRWRR as regular cycling, but then the heated dry only runs the Calrod for about a quarter of the dryng time to prevent damage to pan handles. China cycle is one less wash, but actually you do that on the dial. And China also just runs the Calrod for drying for the lesser time too. It doesn';t mention when or if the Calrod heats during the main wash or a rinse for any cycle, which I would hope it does for Pots Pans, but who knows? And way too early to tell on this machine.
My model doesn't have Rinse-Glo/JetDry dispenser or buttons or anything for it. And the faucet hookup is just that, no extra button on it to get hot water to run in the sink if needed. I believe those 2 items were TOL only, this is one notch down.
BAJA--thanks for the advice, unsolicited or not. Alumininum tape like used for heater flues coming off the furnace? Hi-temp? That may be a way to check out the machine before doing a full repair.
It's still in the garage and waiting, but a question or two anyhows-----Throw me a simple explanation of the pump/spray. Is the motor one direction only, only runs a pump, and one solenoid sends watrer either to the spray arms or out the drain hose? Mechanically/electrically it sounds like a darn simple setup. Motor and pump and solenoid are the main items?
Yes there is still a nameplate on the lower back, covered in paint. I'll check it out later.
And the LiftRack only has that arm on one side. Is that correct or am I missing one arm? I like your idea for the fixed rack, seems handier your way.
So far I can't figure out the water level switch. Is it just timed fill, no actual level switch?
Way too many questions when it ain't even indoors yet!
Thanks
Mark
I downloaded the 1968 owners manual, it describes the Pots&pans as the same WRWRR as regular cycling, but then the heated dry only runs the Calrod for about a quarter of the dryng time to prevent damage to pan handles. China cycle is one less wash, but actually you do that on the dial. And China also just runs the Calrod for drying for the lesser time too. It doesn';t mention when or if the Calrod heats during the main wash or a rinse for any cycle, which I would hope it does for Pots Pans, but who knows? And way too early to tell on this machine.
My model doesn't have Rinse-Glo/JetDry dispenser or buttons or anything for it. And the faucet hookup is just that, no extra button on it to get hot water to run in the sink if needed. I believe those 2 items were TOL only, this is one notch down.
BAJA--thanks for the advice, unsolicited or not. Alumininum tape like used for heater flues coming off the furnace? Hi-temp? That may be a way to check out the machine before doing a full repair.
It's still in the garage and waiting, but a question or two anyhows-----Throw me a simple explanation of the pump/spray. Is the motor one direction only, only runs a pump, and one solenoid sends watrer either to the spray arms or out the drain hose? Mechanically/electrically it sounds like a darn simple setup. Motor and pump and solenoid are the main items?
Yes there is still a nameplate on the lower back, covered in paint. I'll check it out later.
And the LiftRack only has that arm on one side. Is that correct or am I missing one arm? I like your idea for the fixed rack, seems handier your way.
So far I can't figure out the water level switch. Is it just timed fill, no actual level switch?
Way too many questions when it ain't even indoors yet!
Thanks
Mark
Mark, I am not 100% if it would be the case with this machine, but the later GE pump motors ran in one direction only and the solenoid would open (and close) a baffle that directed the flow of water to the spray arm or the drain port. The Frigidaire Spin-Tube dishwashers used this method, too.
