Tub Volume on 1987 Speed Queen TL Washer?

[isabellad]

I inherited a 1987 Speed Queen "Marathon" heavy duty washer and dryer set from my mom. They've worked great with only a washer belt replacement in the last 5 years.

Unfortunately, the house we recently moved into (built 1949) has the original plumbing, and the washer now spits water out of the standpipe after about 10 seconds when it starts to spin dry. We've checked for clogs in the hose, standpipe, and drainpipes with no luck. I think the washer might be putting out more water than the house's pipe system diameter can handle, even when set on only a medium-large load.

I can't find the tub volume in the manuals- Does anyone know off-hand what it is? Also, any suggestions on preventing the water from surging out of the standpipe? I hate running to the washer every time it starts to spin!

Thanks!
Isabella D

 

[brettsomers]

have you tried a commercial clog remover, like Drano? quick and cheap, cant hurt. there is a foaming clog remover/drain cleaner i used many times, but im forgetting EXACTLY whats its called. simply follow package directions, may be all you need.

 

[DADoES]

The volume of water in the tub (total gallons) is not the problem. The problem is the discharge rate of the pump (gallons per minute). Hundreds of gallons of water could be run down that standpipe if not done too fast. If the plumbing really is clear, then the size of the pipes is too small, which likely would be costly to correct. An alternative is run the drain water through a different route such as directly outside through a larger hose or pipe (if that's possible).

 

[spinout]

I agree that tub volume is not the problem. You can, however, put a restrictor in the discharge to reduce its flow rate. I suggest starting with about 2/3 the inner diameter of the existing hose. (This will result in a little less than 50% of the original area.) Flow is going to be reduced in *approximate* proportion to the reduction in cross sectional area of the discharge pipe [at its minimum diameter].

Washer pumps are of pressure-limited designs and there should be no detrimental effects to the machine.

Trial and error is indicated here. Plastic (PVC) pipe parts are handy to use for this purpose.

 

[jamiel]

I had the same problem changing out a Whirlpool with a Maytag--the water would come spitting back out the standpipe. We just jammed the hose down the pipe and sealed it with a rubber stopper which we then clamped over the standpipe....voila worked fine.

 

[isabellad]

DADoES and spinout,
You are correct. After more thought, it is the discharge rate, not the tub volume. I've tried all sorts of manual and chemical clog-removers, and am sure the pipes are clean (though possibly somewhat constricted due to being cast iron). The whole house would have to be repiped- not affordable at this time.

I am interested in trying the discharge restrictor. Would I put the PVC pipe at the standpipe or at the hose/washer junction? I'm a fearless, un-informed newbie at this, willing to try anything! Also, how would the rubber stopper act with water/air flow?

If that doesn't work, I am considering discharging straight to the outside (at least during the summer- Northern CA has been very rainy as of late!) But I don't have an outside sink, and I'm afraid of killing the plants off the porch! Any suggestions?

Thanks for the helpful responses so far. I'll report on my results.

Isabella D

 

[brisnat81]

Whirlpool has a part already

Hi Isabella,

In Australia, each Whirlpool TL ships with a plastic tube insert that goes into the end of the rubber goose neck. It reduces the size of the outlet hose down to about the thickness of 2 fingers. Depending on what the SQ drain hose is like (In australia they were always white corrogated plastic) you could get the readymade whirlpool part and clamp it into the end of the drain hose.

Whatever you do, dont seal the drain hose into the standpipe as suggested above. The SQ machines dont have a syphon break built in, and you could end up with a problem where your machine constantly keeps filling while all the water is syphoned out the drain hose.

I hope you get it sorted,

Nathan

 

[jeb]

slow drain

I live in a subdivion were we all have the same problem with our washer drains. The houses have the same general floor plan and about every year or two the washer drain does what you decribe. Everyone around here has tried about ever drain cleaner on the market and the only thing that really seems to work is to have a plumber come and snake out the drain. Around here you can get it done for about $60.00,and you are safe for a couple of years.

 

[the7]

A modified stand pipe.

I had the same problem with my 95/96 Maytag TL ten years ago. I modified the stand pipe as shown and the problem has been solved.

View attachment 4-19-2006-09-05-59--The7.jpg

 

[the7]

This is the picture.

 

[panthera]

The7

great solution. A customer of ours had that problem in the late 80's. We couldn't reduce pump volume, the machine pumped on a timer (don't ask). In the end we put in a laundry sink. The washer pumped into the large sink, it drained slowly into the very small diamater drain pipe. Problem solved.
I do wonder tho' - does water back up anywhere else in the house? If it does, then you may have another problem in the drains and this is just a symptom.
Hope you can solve it!

 

[toggleswitch]

drain unclogging

what also works well is a pot of boiling salted water. The salt raises the boiling point/temp.This is why kitchen sinks rarely clog. You may want to think about using pasta water to conserve water and heat.I usually put this down every sink, rotating from drain to drain. DO NOT pour in toilet, the hot againt the cold may damage the throne. I have also heard two cups of beach once a month is a great safe drain opener/preventative. you can use the cheap sh--! Better yet, bleach followed by pasta water. LOL

Good luck.
Love all the above ideas!

 

[toggleswitch]

oh and pouring sown root-killing chemicals designed for pipes may not hurt either!