URGENT Hoovermatic Deluxe 3314L HELP!!!

[supermaticjames]

Hi all,

I'm so excited I'm 99% finished with my latest restoration! The once worn looking 3314L is now gleaming and well. However I'm having trouble reading the wiring diagram kindly given to me and I cannot complete the restoration. Can anybody tell me what goes where or send me a picture of their 3314L wiring? Also my pulsator motor is quite seized up and it needs a hand to start and it doesnt really get to it's normal speed. It is definately not burnt out as there are no start windings in this design and there is no smoke.

Finally I found a solution to the lack of spin to pump hose and I found an old rubber drain hose from Gran's old spinner or twin tub and connected one end to the pump and put the other end on a plastic fitting and sealed all up with epoxy so it should do. Hopefully the only effect will be a slightly slower draining due to the approx. inch diameter hose and the pressure switch for auto rinse will be ok?

I'm hoping to do a wash and show you the end result on Tuesday.

Thank's in advance. James.

 

[kic]

If it were a newer model

then I would say it needed a new starting cap. I've drenched motors in WD-40 to get them going even while they were on! worked for me.

 

[supermaticjames]

Hi Louis...

Thanks for your input but there are no start windings, relays or capacitors in Hoover motors. To my knowledge anyway... They are definately not on my Single Tub or 3314L. They must use something else to start them. I will keep putting WD-40 on the bearings. Wouldn't it be great to be able to soak the ends of the motor in it. I cant take the motor apart as it's too tight so. I hope it can be saved in a quick way.

James.

 

[cfz2882]

motor

sounds like it has a "shaded pole"motor for the pulsator-that type of motor
has very low starting torque and they will really drag if the bushings are
gummed up-if you can work the motor shaft in and out that will help get the
fresh oil in and the old,gummy oil out.If you can heat the motor,say with a
light bulb placed directly under it for an hour or so,that might help free it
up enough for it to get up to speed and start to work in the new oil.

 

[kic]

Yes

Only the newer Hoover ttubs, the ones with plastic lids required starting caps.

 

be sure to have the motor run free from the belt and pulley whilst it is on and working its way through the oil

 

[arbilab]

Oh my! WD40 is NOT a lubricant! WD stands for Water Displacement and that's really all it's qualified to do, besides removing adhesive residue and attracting dust. It's highly solvent, so used on bearings it REMOVES whatever lubricant was there. You want a light-medium machine oil.

 

[supermaticjames]

WD-40...

I'm only using it to free up the motor then I'll lubricate it. Can somebody help with the wiring?

 

[kic]

where do you need help

with the wiring?

 

[supermaticjames]

Louis...

Hi,

I know that it is the bottom diagram and I have all the parts wired it's just I don't know what goes where at the top. I think I also have a faulty micro switch on the spinner, the little button goes in and out but the motor doesnt stop when I lift the lid. Maybe the live is going doing the wrong wire to it and bypassing the switch. I just need to know what goes where at the controls but I don't get the diagram.

Thank you, James.

 

[kic]

the spin motor doesn't stop

So I am guessing that when you plug the machine in and turn it on (auto rinse off) it starts to spin regardless of the lid being closed or not? 

 

Have you checked the cable that works the micro switch to stop and start the spin motor?  

 

What happens when you start the wash timer or turn on the heat? Do they function properly? What effect does switching them on have on the spin motor?

 

[supermaticjames]

It's wired up all wrong...

Parts work when it should be other parts working. I didn't take note when I dismantled and I think it would be best if someone with a 3314L or similar could take a picture of their wiring. Pictures tell 1000 words.

James.

 

[kic]

Its not that difficult

I've been through a couple of Hoover t/tubs... more than I care to remember. I lost count.

 

What you have now gone and done is exactly what I would do!

 

How did I fix it?

 

Common sense and a headache or three... Sit down and study the wires. 

 

group what looks to be going where. Do one switch at a time until you managed to get it right then move on to the next soon or later it falls into place.

 

post a pic of what it looks like now

 

[supermaticjames]

I'm not up at the Wash House today...

It was just random connections anyway. Maybe someone will post one in due time. It would be easy if they labelled the diagram of the switch a bit better eg. what side is which or actually labelled the terminals on the switch.

I also have another worry, the spin to pump sump hose was very hard and when I took it out it snapped. These are obsolete over here and I really want to save it for tomorrow. It is in 3 pieces that fit together like a jigsaw. Could I epoxy it together or something? I did epoxy a 1 inch dia. hose into the spinner out let and to the pump as a temporary measure but I'm afraid it will strain the pump because it is smaller pipe. If there is a way to save the original pipe how can I get the temporary pipe out if it's epoxy? Break it off?

James.

 

[supermaticjames]

TBH...

The wiring could be similar if not exactly the same as the period Aussie Hoovermatic or other exports except USA.

James.

 

[tolivac]

WD40 is also FLAMMABLE-don't think I would want to apply it to operating motors,or any other peice of electrical-electronic equipment that is operating or about to operate.The start switch in the motor could ignite it!