Very Old white 35" O'Keefe&Merritt neighbor is selling?

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g3bill

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Joined
Dec 6, 2014
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149
Location
San Fernando Valley, So. Cali.
Very Old white '50's 35" O'Keefe&Merritt neighbor is selling? Whats it worth? He's asking $400. Its very clean original with the 2 timer & clock, not working I'm sure. The stove is approx 35" wide and inside of oven is 16" wide. Theres a folding platform that covers the burners when not in use. 2 right burners are solid disc type. Theres a oven swith thing in the left side thats for lighting the oven and that doesn't work unless held in? Over all looks clean. Theres a ovel cover in center top area , thinking it might be a light but not sure? Is it woth getting and if so whats it cost approx to fix the oven switch thingy. O' yeah theres a hole dead center on the grill/griddle but theres a strange squaresh hole to the left of it, we don't know what it is.
 
It sounds interesting. Got any photos?

 

Clocks can sometimes be rejuvenated with some oil or a new old motor. 

 

Don't know what a hole in the middle of a griddle would be for. Usually there's a grease channel at one end with a drip tray under it. 

 

$400 might be a little high, but on the other hand you wouldn't have to move it far.

 
 
Yeah, if it has issues $400 is high.  Sight unseen I'd guess more around $250.

 

Sounds to me like the piece with the hole in the center may be a removable cover.  Are you sure the square "hole" isn't the griddle's temperature indicator?

 
 
The holes are in the front middle, might be for grease? theres a drip pan under. one hole is about 1/4" or bit larger and the rectangle hole to its left is about 5/8x1 inch? These stoves are being fixed up by local used appliance places around here for high resale in the thousands. The guy thats selling it thinks hes giving me a good deal at 400? I'm starting to think $300 is more than enough but maybe our bucks arent worth much these days? Its your typical 40's/50's stove with porcelain knobs and chrome. If its a great deal I'd go for it but really would rather have a 42 inch with a wider oven. Guess 36" is good cause it will fit in most kitchens making it easier to resale.
 
"Are you sure the square "hole" isn't the griddle's temperature indicator?"
That makes sense so if its a open hole is there something missing like a gauge and glass lens?

Wish I could have taken a pic. Hes going to be moving all his suff next door to another house and have a garage sale soon so he'd lov to have me buy it and not have to have it moved. He asked me what I'd pay for it and I said a couple hundered but I hate to Super low-ball an offer but being low on funds it comes easy... I'm sure its worth $200 but more?, like said there are a few issues I guess...
 
Parts are pricey!

I searched this morning from old threads and linked to a parts store to realize you can get in trouble buying the old stoves. Even if I bought a stove for $200 there might be hidden issues costing way more than I might think its worth. Saw a thermostat assembly for $275 and most every small item could be $40 on up. I'm not so sure I want a stove thats going to be a high priced fixer all of its life? Thing is the oven wont light, might just be a thermocouple but could be more? Cant check the thermost if oven cant stay on....thats a negitive.
 
Bill,

Those stoves have a following. The parts are mostly reproductions, considering the age of the stove. Supporting those stoves isn't cheap. It's the very same reason that there hasn't been a reproduction Westinghouse boot or Frigidaire bellows made.

Considering you're in CA, sit and wait for a better O&M if you wish. I think for $200 though you can't get hurt though.

FYI, someone told me once they wanted $125 for a Magic Chef knob I needed once. I waited and bought a hole other stove for less and took the knobs.
 
Bill:

Parts for these ranges are expensive because they're limited-demand items made of cast and/or machined metal.

However, there is an upside. Once you spend the money and replace what's needed, you should have a range that will last you the rest of your life if you take care of it. And even if you end up with $500-600 in it, that's a better use of that much money than a new piece of lowest-bidder crap from Lowe's or Home Depot.

That stove has already held up very well considering that it's sixty years old, and that's because its parts are of high quality. The things that have gone wrong are often because of long-term use without much maintenance, like greasing valves, etc.

Fix it and take care of it and you should never have to buy another range, ever.
 
Thanks for the input people!

One thing I'm wondering, That folding cover for the burners? It folds to the rear but can it also fold and one panel be a shelf like I think I saw in a pic on a parts site. Just didn't have time to check everything out, really didn't know what to look for till asking here. Tx, Bill

Ps. How heavy are those 36" stoves to move, I'm sure lots of parts can be removed making it a bit lighter.
 
The Shelf

Yes, a funky beach cabin we used to rent had an O&M range with the folding cover.  It was used in its shelf configuration to provide extra usable space in the tiny kitchen.  There are a pair of props that angle out and hold up the shelf at its two front corners.  The rear half of the cover positions vertically against the stove's backsplash and holds up the shelf from the back.

 

That range was probably a 35" model too.  It had a single oven and a more narrow storage area next to it with a swinging door.  O&M ranges tended to measure about an inch shy of the usual width.
 
Shelf would be cool to have and compare Kenmore stove..

I do think I saw a slit on the front panel, so that must be where the brace is to hold it up. I suppose your right about the left side doors being narrower. I know the inside of oven is 16 inches wide and my old Kenmore is the same with left side storage being narrower also, only the Kenmore has pull out drawers, large on top with a smaller below to match oven side.

BTW is there a way to tell who made the Old Kenmore stove? would be nice to know who made such a cheap looking chromeless stove. I'd take a pic but its to dirty right now ;)
 
I can't remember how the shelf props were stored away, but I know they remained attached to the stove.  They were fastened at the rear of each side and may have just hung downward when not in use.

 

Somebody else will have to advise on the Kenmore's manufacturer.  If it measures slightly smaller than average width, it could have been made by O&M.
 
The shelf panel I saw looked like there was a slot, maybe 3/8" x 6-7" and might have seen a flat rod that must have been the support? Think I'll talk to the seller tomorrow and see if he's game for $200, I don't think I'll go higher...

No, the kenmore is maybe 1/16" under (measured at top front edge), nothing like the 35" width measurement of the O'keefe merritt, with my luck its an Edsel ;)
 
Does the stove look like the one in the picture below? This one is mine, I paid $350.00 for it and invested another $800.00 in chrome work, two oven door handles, and having the t-stat and safety valve rebuilt. I went through a restoration shop to have the t-stat and safety valve rebuilt but have since found the place they send them to so now I cut out the middleman when I need to service one of my stoves. See link below.

The 35" model is less common than the 38" models, I looked a long time to find this one. It barely fits in the space between the fridge and cabinets.[this post was last edited: 1/24/2015-21:03]


58limited-2015012420175006134_1.jpg
 
LOOKS SHARP!!! :)

Dave is yours the 38" you mention? The one I'm looking at looks the same from memory? Think the panel behind all the burner knobs is chrome though, same light hood between clock and ? guess timer? Can you post a pic of the temp gauge for the grill? I only saw a empty hole... I assume with the 38" you gain width in the oven over the 35"? If so thats a nice plus.

I finally talked to the neighbor today and called him later. I told him with the couple issues it has I think its only worth $200, He would compromise from $400 to $300 but I didn't really think its worth more than $250 cause of the part needed, we left it there. I need to find out what that starter button thing costs, he said about $100. He said oven wauldn't stay lit unless you keep the button pushed in? said sometimes it will work after repeated trys and also said the oven thermostat works when it stays on.

Is this a pricey fix???? So main items are the starter and temp gauge as far as I know. So what does that starter button do? is there a pilot lite for the oven or just that button? (Is this what you call a safety valve)

Sounds like he'll sell it to me for $300 ,,, maybe its worth it but as low on funds as i am hate to pay more than $250??. bad timing. Guess if i dont get it he'll place a ad.
 
I think that's a 35 incher that David posted above.

 

I had it backwards about how the struts for the shelf are configured.  I had forgotten that a friend and neighbor has an O&M range of similar vintage and had the opportunity to check it out last week.  The struts are hinged on the sides up front.  At rear on each side is a "rest" for the strut to sit in, so they're positioned horizontally when not in use and not just dangling at the rear as I speculated in my previous post.

 

The oven should have a standing pilot.  I think that red button is used only when lighting the pilot.  My sister's Wedgewood has a similar button.  She's in the Eagle Rock area and has tracked down a source for parts and service locally.  I can get the info from her if you want.
 
Ralph i understand the shelf now, good design i guess. Which stste is your sister, Eagle Rock Cali? that area is only 7mi so if theres a parts contact in this area would be nice. Should be there so many people here but most through out the old and in with the new :(

I searched for the safety valve and rebuilt ones were $195 another place $200, not cheap or even reasonable in my mind. I was thinking like $75 but guess i'm still living in the 60's :)

Has anyone here rebuilt there own safety valve? It came up twice that theres a magnet that needs to be remagnatized inside the valve, sounds simple enough? ....

This safety valve must be like the valve on a water heater where ya hold it in till pilot is lit. I thought it was usually the thermocouple that dies not the valve?
 
Bill, yes she's in L.A. 

 

I'll contact her and ask for information.  She has been in her house for about 25 years with the Wedgewood (it came with the house), but only recently found a service and repair person who is familiar with old stoves.
 

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