blackislandbrew
New member
So is that as simple as connecting a wire from the one hot side to the other hot side on the burner (thus in parallel)? My apologies for my ignorance, but high school electronics was a few decades back.
Westinghouse HDA-244 Imperial 30 Super Corox Problem
- Thread starter blackislandbrew
- Start date
Help Support :
No, it is the disconnecting and taping off of one of the leads so that no 240 can ever be supplied to the burner. I don't know which side of the switch, however.
blackislandbrew
New member
I just wanted to follow up on this thread in case anyone else ever has this stove and Google brings them here.
In the end I replaced all the switches, including the Super Corox flasher, with King Seeley infinite switches. In order to use these, I had to remove the Common wire from the wiring block, and just use the L1 and L2 leads. On the three 240V burners, I had to remove the White (common) wire, run a jumper between the Red and Black poles on the burner, and connect H1 to the White (common) and H2 to the Red, so that the two elements ran in parallel. On the Super Corox burner, I had to remove the White (common) wire and hook H1 to the black, H2 to the red, and because the common already connects the two elements, they run in series, so they work with the 240V switch. The 8" burner needs a higher amp switch than the three 6" burners. Since the old Super Corox switch L1 & L2 wires were connected with a bolt through an eye at the end of the wire, I had to cut them and add a female spade clip.
It really helped to find the PDF file I've attached, once I had the right switches.
In the end I replaced all the switches, including the Super Corox flasher, with King Seeley infinite switches. In order to use these, I had to remove the Common wire from the wiring block, and just use the L1 and L2 leads. On the three 240V burners, I had to remove the White (common) wire, run a jumper between the Red and Black poles on the burner, and connect H1 to the White (common) and H2 to the Red, so that the two elements ran in parallel. On the Super Corox burner, I had to remove the White (common) wire and hook H1 to the black, H2 to the red, and because the common already connects the two elements, they run in series, so they work with the 240V switch. The 8" burner needs a higher amp switch than the three 6" burners. Since the old Super Corox switch L1 & L2 wires were connected with a bolt through an eye at the end of the wire, I had to cut them and add a female spade clip.
It really helped to find the PDF file I've attached, once I had the right switches.
well done.
Well, you took a lot of the fun out of using the old Corox units and you won't have Medium Hi and Low for smaller diameter pans, but it is a more modern set up. You were able to keep the light feature, right?
Well, you took a lot of the fun out of using the old Corox units and you won't have Medium Hi and Low for smaller diameter pans, but it is a more modern set up. You were able to keep the light feature, right?
blackislandbrew
New member
If by light feature you mean a burner light, this range does not have it. And you're right, I won't be able to heat just the inner coils on the Corox burners, but what I can do is cook on medium, which the old corox switches would not do.
I poked around our local vintage parts place, and they haven't had a 5-position corox switch for years.
What I'm most pleased about is being able to keep the original burners, even the Super Corox.
I poked around our local vintage parts place, and they haven't had a 5-position corox switch for years.
What I'm most pleased about is being able to keep the original burners, even the Super Corox.
