What is the trick to keep your clothes white?
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[this post was last edited: 4/12/2012-17:28]
[this post was last edited: 4/12/2012-17:28]
Whites
Chlorine bleach can help alot. Just be careful with the dosage or fabric damage can easily occur. I reccomend using an extra rinse or water plus option when bleaching. Also it is not reccomended that printed shirts or whites that contain other colors be washed with bleach as it can ruin them. Another possible problem could be hard water in which a water softener would be needed.
Nick WK78
Chlorine bleach can help alot. Just be careful with the dosage or fabric damage can easily occur. I reccomend using an extra rinse or water plus option when bleaching. Also it is not reccomended that printed shirts or whites that contain other colors be washed with bleach as it can ruin them. Another possible problem could be hard water in which a water softener would be needed.
Nick WK78
zipdang
Well-known member
Sorting
I never mix whites and colors in the same load. This prevents the the whites from picking up dye from the colors. Have done this all my life and have never had a problem with dingy whites.
I never mix whites and colors in the same load. This prevents the the whites from picking up dye from the colors. Have done this all my life and have never had a problem with dingy whites.
Personally I think chlorine bleach gives whites a bit of a yellow look after using it for a while. I think oxygen bleach does a much better job. Ariel contains oxygen bleach. I have been using Ariel since 1982 for my whites and I always get praised for my whites.
As a matter of fact I a few years ago I bought some cream colored polo's while the white ones were sold out. I had them white in no time! lol
If you want to get dingy whites really white again, soak them overnight in warm water with some Ariel. Activate the oxygen bleach by putting some hot water on it and after that you can add it to the warm water.
No need to say that you always have to wash whites separately from colors.
As a matter of fact I a few years ago I bought some cream colored polo's while the white ones were sold out. I had them white in no time! lol
If you want to get dingy whites really white again, soak them overnight in warm water with some Ariel. Activate the oxygen bleach by putting some hot water on it and after that you can add it to the warm water.
No need to say that you always have to wash whites separately from colors.
launderess
Well-known member
Simple
You don't need chlorine bleach, at least not all the time. Indeed the stuff actually will turn items yellow with frequent use. This can be covered up to an extent with bluing agents, but still.
To keep whites "white" do not allow items to become too dirty between launderings. Also do not wash very dirty items with those that are lightly soiled.
Use proper amounts of detergent to get the job done and make sure laundry is rinsed very well. If there are still suds in the rinse water, you've got detergent in your laundry.
Do not overload the washer. Items need room to move about so water/detergent can get at and lift away soils.
Launder items frequently. Merely taking off a dirty item and putting it into the hamper for several days (or weeks) isn't the same as promptly sending it to the wash. The longer soils and bodily oils remain on fabrics they begin to bond and eventually go off. You see this on collars and other areas that have that "ring" of yellow/soils.
Remember the four main areas of good laundry practice; time, temperature, chemistry, and wash action. When you reduce one the others must increase to compensate.
To keep whites at their best warm to hot (about 120F) water is really needed. That is the temperature range where enzymes and oxygen bleaches work best. Using cool or cold water is going to require either a stronger detergent and or more off it to obtain equal results. Even then it is a good idea to crank up the temperature every now and then (if things appear dingy for instance), should the fabric allow.
You don't need chlorine bleach, at least not all the time. Indeed the stuff actually will turn items yellow with frequent use. This can be covered up to an extent with bluing agents, but still.
To keep whites "white" do not allow items to become too dirty between launderings. Also do not wash very dirty items with those that are lightly soiled.
Use proper amounts of detergent to get the job done and make sure laundry is rinsed very well. If there are still suds in the rinse water, you've got detergent in your laundry.
Do not overload the washer. Items need room to move about so water/detergent can get at and lift away soils.
Launder items frequently. Merely taking off a dirty item and putting it into the hamper for several days (or weeks) isn't the same as promptly sending it to the wash. The longer soils and bodily oils remain on fabrics they begin to bond and eventually go off. You see this on collars and other areas that have that "ring" of yellow/soils.
Remember the four main areas of good laundry practice; time, temperature, chemistry, and wash action. When you reduce one the others must increase to compensate.
To keep whites at their best warm to hot (about 120F) water is really needed. That is the temperature range where enzymes and oxygen bleaches work best. Using cool or cold water is going to require either a stronger detergent and or more off it to obtain equal results. Even then it is a good idea to crank up the temperature every now and then (if things appear dingy for instance), should the fabric allow.
optima
Well-known member
whites
50deg Wash using Daz Automatic, Oh and a decent old school washing machine.
50deg Wash using Daz Automatic, Oh and a decent old school washing machine.
zanussi_lover
Well-known member
Easy
A good Biological Detergent with Enzymes and Oxygen Bleach and 40-60*c temperatures
Persil Bio powder or Daz is good - Powders not Liquids
Find Non Bio works well also, Particularly Persil Non Biological as it has a higher level of oxygen bleach to compensate for the lack of enzyme
Put all whites in together, scoop of powder/tablets in the drawer
use at least 40*c (the optimum temp to start the bio action of the detergent) use higher temps if the whites are plain and have no fancy designs on them.
Hang whites on the line in the sun as this helps the photobleaches in the detergent work.
A good Biological Detergent with Enzymes and Oxygen Bleach and 40-60*c temperatures
Persil Bio powder or Daz is good - Powders not Liquids
Find Non Bio works well also, Particularly Persil Non Biological as it has a higher level of oxygen bleach to compensate for the lack of enzyme
Put all whites in together, scoop of powder/tablets in the drawer
use at least 40*c (the optimum temp to start the bio action of the detergent) use higher temps if the whites are plain and have no fancy designs on them.
Hang whites on the line in the sun as this helps the photobleaches in the detergent work.
This always works for me
LOL
LOL
dj-gabriele
Well-known member
- Joined
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- 1,685
Personally I think chlorine bleach gives whites a bit of a y
Totally second that!
And now for your question: I seldom wash at over than 60°C but I ALWAYS use complete powder detergents and dry in the sun whenever I can, the sun is a natural bleach and will keep things white (but don't abuse otherwise stuff will turn yellow as with chlorine!)
I make sure things are throughly rinsed so no residue remain and voilà!
I have real linen that have more than 50 years that are as new as when they were made (hand woven!)
Totally second that!
And now for your question: I seldom wash at over than 60°C but I ALWAYS use complete powder detergents and dry in the sun whenever I can, the sun is a natural bleach and will keep things white (but don't abuse otherwise stuff will turn yellow as with chlorine!)
I make sure things are throughly rinsed so no residue remain and voilà!
I have real linen that have more than 50 years that are as new as when they were made (hand woven!)
jetsystem1200
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- Joined
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Use a decent washing powder (i.e. Persil and Ariel) and wash around 60 degrees as the enzymes will work their best at 60 degrees. Also, line dry and use the right amount of washing powder as using too little or too much could lead to bad results. Pretreat stains (I rub in a little bit of liquid detergent into the stain in warm water) and DO NOT mix coloured items with whites, especially at a high temperature.
Finn
That's not right, about enzymes working best at 60 degrees! They work best at 40 degrees, that's why some washers have a pause in heating the water at 40 degrees before they heat further to higher temperatures. Most enzymes are killed over 60 degrees.
That's not right, about enzymes working best at 60 degrees! They work best at 40 degrees, that's why some washers have a pause in heating the water at 40 degrees before they heat further to higher temperatures. Most enzymes are killed over 60 degrees.
paulc
Well-known member
Louis
is right, enzymes are killed off at higher temperatures but the oxygen bleach becomes more effective.
is right, enzymes are killed off at higher temperatures but the oxygen bleach becomes more effective.
launderess
Well-known member
Maybe It Is Different By Local Conditions
But both automatic dishwasher and laundry detergents sold on this side of the pond have a sweet spot of between 100F and 120F, with the latter often giving better results.
The above excludes products designed for cold water use such as Tide CW.
But both automatic dishwasher and laundry detergents sold on this side of the pond have a sweet spot of between 100F and 120F, with the latter often giving better results.
The above excludes products designed for cold water use such as Tide CW.
jetsystem1200
Well-known member
- Joined
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Oh, I got a bit confused there! Apparently, 60 degrees is when the enzymes get killed off, is this true?
Yes, around 60 degrees C (140 degrees F) they stop working.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biological_detergent
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biological_detergent
sudsmaster
Well-known member
In a word, STPP.
I used to do racetrack safety work, and white clothing was required. I would ride my motorcycle to the track. I found that moderately hot water (130F) and a detergent with phosphates (STPP) got the road and bike grime off the jeans, leaving the spotless. Then the mfg pulled the phosphates from the detergent, and I noticed that the jeans were no longer getting clean. It took a while for me to find out the missing ingredient, Sodium Tri Poly Phosphate (STPP for short), but since I found it I know that it gets most types of dirt on whites out.
Now, some stains won't be removed by STPP. Thinks like some plant dyes. For these, a good oxygen bleach might help. I don't use chlorine bleach, because of its harsh effects on fabrics. And it isn't very effective on road grime anyway.
I used to do racetrack safety work, and white clothing was required. I would ride my motorcycle to the track. I found that moderately hot water (130F) and a detergent with phosphates (STPP) got the road and bike grime off the jeans, leaving the spotless. Then the mfg pulled the phosphates from the detergent, and I noticed that the jeans were no longer getting clean. It took a while for me to find out the missing ingredient, Sodium Tri Poly Phosphate (STPP for short), but since I found it I know that it gets most types of dirt on whites out.
Now, some stains won't be removed by STPP. Thinks like some plant dyes. For these, a good oxygen bleach might help. I don't use chlorine bleach, because of its harsh effects on fabrics. And it isn't very effective on road grime anyway.
polkanut
Well-known member
As was mentioned earlier, hanging laundry outside and letting the sun work in conjunction with the whiteners in the detergents can do a better job than bleach.
I remember that my mother used to lay out whites on the lawn when I was a kid. I think she only did that with diapers, but she might have done it with sheets too.
In earlier centuries it was common to have bleaching grounds outside a city, mainly for the cotton industry for the production of white cotton. A Dutch painter, Jacob van Ruisdael, made the painting "View of Haarlem with Bleaching Grounds" (Gezicht op Haarlem met de bleekvelden).
In earlier centuries it was common to have bleaching grounds outside a city, mainly for the cotton industry for the production of white cotton. A Dutch painter, Jacob van Ruisdael, made the painting "View of Haarlem with Bleaching Grounds" (Gezicht op Haarlem met de bleekvelden).
gus
Well-known member
Hello guys!. I seldom write, but I read every single day. Refering to bleaching I know, because I've seen it all my life, (I'm 60), if you can lay whites on the clean grass under the sun and water every time they get dry, at the end of the day you'll get bright whites. Sometimes you have to rinse once more just for the bits of grass. But it's worth. This is my little dime.
Tetraacetylethylenediamine
TEAD activates bleach in cooler temps. Some detergents like Persil have this stuff in them.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraacetylethylenediamine
TEAD activates bleach in cooler temps. Some detergents like Persil have this stuff in them.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraacetylethylenediamine
launderess
Well-known member
Haarlem with Bleaching Grounds
Linen was the main textile fiber European and UK for household and personal textiles at the period shown in the painting. Thus it was linens that were being sun bleached,not cotton. Indeed all over Europe wherever linen was produced be it at home or in a textile factory it would be whitened by laying rolling long widths of fabric out on grassy fields.
From growing linen to the sun/grass bleaching of it there was and or still is something special about the Holland/ Netherlands. Again though linen was grown all over Europe and the UK some of the finest came from that region. Even when grown elsewhere royal, wealthy and or textile manufacturers sent their linen to the area for the treatment. Ireland was another place famous for it's linen and bleaching of it via sun/grass.
Problem with bleaching fields is they took up lots of land that otherwise could be put into production for farming,livestock, or housing. As the population of European cities and towns grew it became more difficult to find clean/pristine areas to use soley for bleaching fields. The things require land that is not only free of trees/bushes, but obviously not recently used by livestock or horses (you can't or rather wouldnt want freshly washed linen dried over cow pats), and had to be kept free of same whilst the linen was laid out.
Linen also was highly valuable in those days, especially the richly embroidered and fine linens of the wealthy; hence prone to theft. Linen laid about on fields was obviously easy pickings for theft or simply confiscated by armies. In several famous European battles either things were held up whilst the linen was gathered up before the approaching army trampled all over it, and or the same was confiscated as war loot and taken away.
In order to sun bleach linen you need grass, or bush to lay things upon but also the items must be kept wet until the desired level of whitness is reached. In the era before hoses and such one or perhaps a small army of workers would have to go up and down the field with waterng cans at regular intervals to keep the linen moist. Or depending upon the climate/time of the year things simply left out during "light" showers followed by clear weather.
Cotton in Europe:
Cotton had been known in much of Europe since at least the Crusades or even before when it was brought back from Egypt. However given the small amounts imported it was very expensive thus only the very wealthy had any of the stuff. OTHO flax, hemp, and nettle were grown all over the UK/EU with many farming or other families with land setting aside plots or two for the sole purpose of growing the plants. This linen and hemp would be used to make threads and textiles for the family up to and including whatever linens would become part of female's dowry.
For some odd reason it never occured to Europeans then to grow cotton elsewhere and import the fiber back home for processing. This slowly began to change as England, France and the other great European powers aquired colonies in the Caribbean and North America. Things really began to take off when the United States, a new country with vast land and other resources begain growing cotton. As elsewhere in the New World having cheap slave labour made working vast plantations "easy" for their owners,who in turn became quite wealthy as indeed did the countries in question.
Once the Industrial Revolution took hold in the UK and many EU countries it became easy to mass produce tons of inexpensive cotton threads and textiles. This began the slow decline of linen as the preferred textile and all that sun bleaching. For one thing unlike flax, cotton can be chlorine/chemically bleached with more margin for error before you destroy the fibers.
The other thing that killed bleaching fields was the invention of Persil with it's perborate bleach. Now housewives/laundries could simply boil linens white in <30mins rather than a day or longer of laying things about in the sun. Moreover this bleaching could be done regardless of the weather. All they had to worry about was finding ways to get things dry on a less than perfect day.
Linen was the main textile fiber European and UK for household and personal textiles at the period shown in the painting. Thus it was linens that were being sun bleached,not cotton. Indeed all over Europe wherever linen was produced be it at home or in a textile factory it would be whitened by laying rolling long widths of fabric out on grassy fields.
From growing linen to the sun/grass bleaching of it there was and or still is something special about the Holland/ Netherlands. Again though linen was grown all over Europe and the UK some of the finest came from that region. Even when grown elsewhere royal, wealthy and or textile manufacturers sent their linen to the area for the treatment. Ireland was another place famous for it's linen and bleaching of it via sun/grass.
Problem with bleaching fields is they took up lots of land that otherwise could be put into production for farming,livestock, or housing. As the population of European cities and towns grew it became more difficult to find clean/pristine areas to use soley for bleaching fields. The things require land that is not only free of trees/bushes, but obviously not recently used by livestock or horses (you can't or rather wouldnt want freshly washed linen dried over cow pats), and had to be kept free of same whilst the linen was laid out.
Linen also was highly valuable in those days, especially the richly embroidered and fine linens of the wealthy; hence prone to theft. Linen laid about on fields was obviously easy pickings for theft or simply confiscated by armies. In several famous European battles either things were held up whilst the linen was gathered up before the approaching army trampled all over it, and or the same was confiscated as war loot and taken away.
In order to sun bleach linen you need grass, or bush to lay things upon but also the items must be kept wet until the desired level of whitness is reached. In the era before hoses and such one or perhaps a small army of workers would have to go up and down the field with waterng cans at regular intervals to keep the linen moist. Or depending upon the climate/time of the year things simply left out during "light" showers followed by clear weather.
Cotton in Europe:
Cotton had been known in much of Europe since at least the Crusades or even before when it was brought back from Egypt. However given the small amounts imported it was very expensive thus only the very wealthy had any of the stuff. OTHO flax, hemp, and nettle were grown all over the UK/EU with many farming or other families with land setting aside plots or two for the sole purpose of growing the plants. This linen and hemp would be used to make threads and textiles for the family up to and including whatever linens would become part of female's dowry.
For some odd reason it never occured to Europeans then to grow cotton elsewhere and import the fiber back home for processing. This slowly began to change as England, France and the other great European powers aquired colonies in the Caribbean and North America. Things really began to take off when the United States, a new country with vast land and other resources begain growing cotton. As elsewhere in the New World having cheap slave labour made working vast plantations "easy" for their owners,who in turn became quite wealthy as indeed did the countries in question.
Once the Industrial Revolution took hold in the UK and many EU countries it became easy to mass produce tons of inexpensive cotton threads and textiles. This began the slow decline of linen as the preferred textile and all that sun bleaching. For one thing unlike flax, cotton can be chlorine/chemically bleached with more margin for error before you destroy the fibers.
The other thing that killed bleaching fields was the invention of Persil with it's perborate bleach. Now housewives/laundries could simply boil linens white in <30mins rather than a day or longer of laying things about in the sun. Moreover this bleaching could be done regardless of the weather. All they had to worry about was finding ways to get things dry on a less than perfect day.
I'm sorry, you are right. It is linen, not cotton. A lot of flax was grown in the Netherlands, especially in the province Zeeland. I guess I still had the cotton diapers in mind that my mother used to bleach on the lawn in the back garden. IIRC the laundry was sprinkled with water a few times when it was in the sun.
launderess
Well-known member
As With Bath Linen
Cotton makes much fluffier and softer nappies, that are also absorbent. Am sure many UK/EU mothers were thrilled when they came along. Also cotton withstands boiling better than linen, which was almost routine for nappie washing day.
Have tons of vintage linen woven hand and bath towels, and find one vastly prefers terry cloth. Something about stepping out of the bath/shower and drying off with a nice soft and fluffy towel. Our second choice would be "waffle" woven bath linen. Have a few towels brought home from France, along with wash mitts. The latter get the most use.
Cotton makes much fluffier and softer nappies, that are also absorbent. Am sure many UK/EU mothers were thrilled when they came along. Also cotton withstands boiling better than linen, which was almost routine for nappie washing day.
Have tons of vintage linen woven hand and bath towels, and find one vastly prefers terry cloth. Something about stepping out of the bath/shower and drying off with a nice soft and fluffy towel. Our second choice would be "waffle" woven bath linen. Have a few towels brought home from France, along with wash mitts. The latter get the most use.
launderess
Well-known member
Sun Bleaching
Furthermore as the IR moved across the UK/EU it became harder and harder to find clean fresh air. All that burning of coal produced tons of soot and smoke that landed on everything. Housewives and laundries located in the big cities such as London bemoaned freshly washed laundry becoming fouled by smut.
Railroads presented another problem as even away from the cities if one lived near the tracks the same happened as well.
Finding ample supplies of fresh water became another problem. Rivers, lakes and streams were often fouled by industry and or human waste in or near any urban area of size.
Furthermore as the IR moved across the UK/EU it became harder and harder to find clean fresh air. All that burning of coal produced tons of soot and smoke that landed on everything. Housewives and laundries located in the big cities such as London bemoaned freshly washed laundry becoming fouled by smut.
Railroads presented another problem as even away from the cities if one lived near the tracks the same happened as well.
Finding ample supplies of fresh water became another problem. Rivers, lakes and streams were often fouled by industry and or human waste in or near any urban area of size.
Speaking of linen did you see that tv show/doc on how they used to make it. Particularly the part where someone used to go around the villages collecting bucket loads of human urine (uric acid) which they'd soak the fabric in to soften it by stomping in them with their bare feet.
launderess
Well-known member
Ammonia
Is what "lant" (old urine cleaning fluid) was sought. Once a chemcial process for producing ammonia en masse developed the use of urine fell into decline.
Still, the sale of urine brought something into households that often were in want. For domestic use urine was collected and used for everything from textile (wool, linen) production to laundry.
Again all this died out as better and more sanitary alternatives became available.
Just so you know ancient Romans used urine to brush their teeth.
Is what "lant" (old urine cleaning fluid) was sought. Once a chemcial process for producing ammonia en masse developed the use of urine fell into decline.
Still, the sale of urine brought something into households that often were in want. For domestic use urine was collected and used for everything from textile (wool, linen) production to laundry.
Again all this died out as better and more sanitary alternatives became available.
Just so you know ancient Romans used urine to brush their teeth.
strongenough78
Well-known member
When I'm able to use a regular washer as opposed to a coin op since there are no hook ups in my apartment, I'll do my own version of the "Magic Minute" used by the ABC o matic and Kelvinators. I don't ever have enough whites for a full, large load so if it's a small load, I'll use the small level setting with enough detergent for a medium load. Let the wash cycle get to the last 2 or so minutes then reset it back to the beginning but this time selecting the next water level up. Using hot water of course. Then add bleach when there is 5 minutes left, let the washer complete the cycle and run another rinse. They come out white every time. Even very dirty socks. Softening the water helps a lot.
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