What is the trick to keep your clothes white?
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[this post was last edited: 4/12/2012-17:28]
[this post was last edited: 4/12/2012-17:28]
Whites
Chlorine bleach can help alot. Just be careful with the dosage or fabric damage can easily occur. I reccomend using an extra rinse or water plus option when bleaching. Also it is not reccomended that printed shirts or whites that contain other colors be washed with bleach as it can ruin them. Another possible problem could be hard water in which a water softener would be needed.
Nick WK78
Chlorine bleach can help alot. Just be careful with the dosage or fabric damage can easily occur. I reccomend using an extra rinse or water plus option when bleaching. Also it is not reccomended that printed shirts or whites that contain other colors be washed with bleach as it can ruin them. Another possible problem could be hard water in which a water softener would be needed.
Nick WK78
zipdang
Well-known member
Sorting
I never mix whites and colors in the same load. This prevents the the whites from picking up dye from the colors. Have done this all my life and have never had a problem with dingy whites.
I never mix whites and colors in the same load. This prevents the the whites from picking up dye from the colors. Have done this all my life and have never had a problem with dingy whites.
Personally I think chlorine bleach gives whites a bit of a yellow look after using it for a while. I think oxygen bleach does a much better job. Ariel contains oxygen bleach. I have been using Ariel since 1982 for my whites and I always get praised for my whites.
As a matter of fact I a few years ago I bought some cream colored polo's while the white ones were sold out. I had them white in no time! lol
If you want to get dingy whites really white again, soak them overnight in warm water with some Ariel. Activate the oxygen bleach by putting some hot water on it and after that you can add it to the warm water.
No need to say that you always have to wash whites separately from colors.
As a matter of fact I a few years ago I bought some cream colored polo's while the white ones were sold out. I had them white in no time! lol
If you want to get dingy whites really white again, soak them overnight in warm water with some Ariel. Activate the oxygen bleach by putting some hot water on it and after that you can add it to the warm water.
No need to say that you always have to wash whites separately from colors.
Simple
You don't need chlorine bleach, at least not all the time. Indeed the stuff actually will turn items yellow with frequent use. This can be covered up to an extent with bluing agents, but still.
To keep whites "white" do not allow items to become too dirty between launderings. Also do not wash very dirty items with those that are lightly soiled.
Use proper amounts of detergent to get the job done and make sure laundry is rinsed very well. If there are still suds in the rinse water, you've got detergent in your laundry.
Do not overload the washer. Items need room to move about so water/detergent can get at and lift away soils.
Launder items frequently. Merely taking off a dirty item and putting it into the hamper for several days (or weeks) isn't the same as promptly sending it to the wash. The longer soils and bodily oils remain on fabrics they begin to bond and eventually go off. You see this on collars and other areas that have that "ring" of yellow/soils.
Remember the four main areas of good laundry practice; time, temperature, chemistry, and wash action. When you reduce one the others must increase to compensate.
To keep whites at their best warm to hot (about 120F) water is really needed. That is the temperature range where enzymes and oxygen bleaches work best. Using cool or cold water is going to require either a stronger detergent and or more off it to obtain equal results. Even then it is a good idea to crank up the temperature every now and then (if things appear dingy for instance), should the fabric allow.
You don't need chlorine bleach, at least not all the time. Indeed the stuff actually will turn items yellow with frequent use. This can be covered up to an extent with bluing agents, but still.
To keep whites "white" do not allow items to become too dirty between launderings. Also do not wash very dirty items with those that are lightly soiled.
Use proper amounts of detergent to get the job done and make sure laundry is rinsed very well. If there are still suds in the rinse water, you've got detergent in your laundry.
Do not overload the washer. Items need room to move about so water/detergent can get at and lift away soils.
Launder items frequently. Merely taking off a dirty item and putting it into the hamper for several days (or weeks) isn't the same as promptly sending it to the wash. The longer soils and bodily oils remain on fabrics they begin to bond and eventually go off. You see this on collars and other areas that have that "ring" of yellow/soils.
Remember the four main areas of good laundry practice; time, temperature, chemistry, and wash action. When you reduce one the others must increase to compensate.
To keep whites at their best warm to hot (about 120F) water is really needed. That is the temperature range where enzymes and oxygen bleaches work best. Using cool or cold water is going to require either a stronger detergent and or more off it to obtain equal results. Even then it is a good idea to crank up the temperature every now and then (if things appear dingy for instance), should the fabric allow.
optima
Well-known member
whites
50deg Wash using Daz Automatic, Oh and a decent old school washing machine.
50deg Wash using Daz Automatic, Oh and a decent old school washing machine.
zanussi_lover
Well-known member
Easy
A good Biological Detergent with Enzymes and Oxygen Bleach and 40-60*c temperatures
Persil Bio powder or Daz is good - Powders not Liquids
Find Non Bio works well also, Particularly Persil Non Biological as it has a higher level of oxygen bleach to compensate for the lack of enzyme
Put all whites in together, scoop of powder/tablets in the drawer
use at least 40*c (the optimum temp to start the bio action of the detergent) use higher temps if the whites are plain and have no fancy designs on them.
Hang whites on the line in the sun as this helps the photobleaches in the detergent work.
A good Biological Detergent with Enzymes and Oxygen Bleach and 40-60*c temperatures
Persil Bio powder or Daz is good - Powders not Liquids
Find Non Bio works well also, Particularly Persil Non Biological as it has a higher level of oxygen bleach to compensate for the lack of enzyme
Put all whites in together, scoop of powder/tablets in the drawer
use at least 40*c (the optimum temp to start the bio action of the detergent) use higher temps if the whites are plain and have no fancy designs on them.
Hang whites on the line in the sun as this helps the photobleaches in the detergent work.
This always works for me
LOL
LOL
dj-gabriele
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Personally I think chlorine bleach gives whites a bit of a y
Totally second that!
And now for your question: I seldom wash at over than 60°C but I ALWAYS use complete powder detergents and dry in the sun whenever I can, the sun is a natural bleach and will keep things white (but don't abuse otherwise stuff will turn yellow as with chlorine!)
I make sure things are throughly rinsed so no residue remain and voilà!
I have real linen that have more than 50 years that are as new as when they were made (hand woven!)
Totally second that!
And now for your question: I seldom wash at over than 60°C but I ALWAYS use complete powder detergents and dry in the sun whenever I can, the sun is a natural bleach and will keep things white (but don't abuse otherwise stuff will turn yellow as with chlorine!)
I make sure things are throughly rinsed so no residue remain and voilà!
I have real linen that have more than 50 years that are as new as when they were made (hand woven!)
jetsystem1200
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Use a decent washing powder (i.e. Persil and Ariel) and wash around 60 degrees as the enzymes will work their best at 60 degrees. Also, line dry and use the right amount of washing powder as using too little or too much could lead to bad results. Pretreat stains (I rub in a little bit of liquid detergent into the stain in warm water) and DO NOT mix coloured items with whites, especially at a high temperature.
Finn
That's not right, about enzymes working best at 60 degrees! They work best at 40 degrees, that's why some washers have a pause in heating the water at 40 degrees before they heat further to higher temperatures. Most enzymes are killed over 60 degrees.
That's not right, about enzymes working best at 60 degrees! They work best at 40 degrees, that's why some washers have a pause in heating the water at 40 degrees before they heat further to higher temperatures. Most enzymes are killed over 60 degrees.
paulc
Well-known member
Louis
is right, enzymes are killed off at higher temperatures but the oxygen bleach becomes more effective.
is right, enzymes are killed off at higher temperatures but the oxygen bleach becomes more effective.
Maybe It Is Different By Local Conditions
But both automatic dishwasher and laundry detergents sold on this side of the pond have a sweet spot of between 100F and 120F, with the latter often giving better results.
The above excludes products designed for cold water use such as Tide CW.
But both automatic dishwasher and laundry detergents sold on this side of the pond have a sweet spot of between 100F and 120F, with the latter often giving better results.
The above excludes products designed for cold water use such as Tide CW.
jetsystem1200
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Oh, I got a bit confused there! Apparently, 60 degrees is when the enzymes get killed off, is this true?
Yes, around 60 degrees C (140 degrees F) they stop working.
en.wikipedia.org
Detergent enzymes - Wikipedia
In a word, STPP.
I used to do racetrack safety work, and white clothing was required. I would ride my motorcycle to the track. I found that moderately hot water (130F) and a detergent with phosphates (STPP) got the road and bike grime off the jeans, leaving the spotless. Then the mfg pulled the phosphates from the detergent, and I noticed that the jeans were no longer getting clean. It took a while for me to find out the missing ingredient, Sodium Tri Poly Phosphate (STPP for short), but since I found it I know that it gets most types of dirt on whites out.
Now, some stains won't be removed by STPP. Thinks like some plant dyes. For these, a good oxygen bleach might help. I don't use chlorine bleach, because of its harsh effects on fabrics. And it isn't very effective on road grime anyway.
I used to do racetrack safety work, and white clothing was required. I would ride my motorcycle to the track. I found that moderately hot water (130F) and a detergent with phosphates (STPP) got the road and bike grime off the jeans, leaving the spotless. Then the mfg pulled the phosphates from the detergent, and I noticed that the jeans were no longer getting clean. It took a while for me to find out the missing ingredient, Sodium Tri Poly Phosphate (STPP for short), but since I found it I know that it gets most types of dirt on whites out.
Now, some stains won't be removed by STPP. Thinks like some plant dyes. For these, a good oxygen bleach might help. I don't use chlorine bleach, because of its harsh effects on fabrics. And it isn't very effective on road grime anyway.
polkanut
Well-known member
As was mentioned earlier, hanging laundry outside and letting the sun work in conjunction with the whiteners in the detergents can do a better job than bleach.
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