Whirlpol DW Float switch
- Thread starter lebron
- Start date
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For what purpose?
Dishwashers are Timed Fill.
The float is for overfill omly.
The float is for overfill omly.
I wonder if your inlet valve is being restricted by some debris/grit and you feel it's not getting the full amount of water. I've known of several Power Cleans that have had insufficient fill amounts over time due to this. Power Cleans seem to be very sensitive when it comes to not having the expected full charge of water for each fill.
One of RJ's rental properties has a (13yo) PowerClean. The house is 100+yo and in an older neighborhood of town. Debris gets loosened when plumbers turn the house water supply off/on to work on it, or after the city works on the mains in the area. I've disassembled/cleaned the valve two, maybe three times for low-fill in the 9-ish years the house has been an active rental. Last time was 1/22/2018.
Plugged inlet screens are very common in areas with hard water conditions and will limit water fills below factory spec in dishwashers. This also an issue in older homes that have old galvanized pipes rotting from the inside out. Deteriorating internal water heaters are another culprit. I've pulled a few old 'tag washers out of very old homes and the water valves screen were partially, if not fully plugged up. Scored a free Maytag 906 washer from an ancient 3 story complex in San Francisco that had completely plugged up hot and cold water screens. Not one single drop of water could squeeze past either of them.
Under Filling WP PC DW
Or just about any other DW
Unless the inlet valve screen is packed with stuff to the point you can not see the screen and the stuff is more than 1/4" thick, don't waste you time cleaning and old valve, Replace it with a new valve, the problem is the rubber valve diaphragm is failing [ unless the valve is old enough to be screwed together and you can find a valve rebuild kit ]
By the time a DW valve is that clogged every faucet, shower head and inlet valve for the washer has already clogged several times over, you would have some seriously contaminated water, normally with a tank type water heater most foreign particles fall to the bottom of the tank and stay there.
John
Or just about any other DW
Unless the inlet valve screen is packed with stuff to the point you can not see the screen and the stuff is more than 1/4" thick, don't waste you time cleaning and old valve, Replace it with a new valve, the problem is the rubber valve diaphragm is failing [ unless the valve is old enough to be screwed together and you can find a valve rebuild kit ]
By the time a DW valve is that clogged every faucet, shower head and inlet valve for the washer has already clogged several times over, you would have some seriously contaminated water, normally with a tank type water heater most foreign particles fall to the bottom of the tank and stay there.
John
Dang I did not realize DWs were using a timed fill. Was looking for a very slight modification to improve performance but likely unnecessary. I picked up this Kitchen-aid DW locally for cheap and I noticed they recessed the heating element further into the sump compared to older models. I assume this is done in order to lower the water level in the tub and decrease usage. The machine and inlet especially does have hard water damage. But it should be fine, I'm hoping to clean everything up and have her running again.
The nasty sump pictured - probably about 7 years of family use. Typical? How often should one open up a WP DW like this? How similar are these gussied up KA machines to their WP and KM counterparts? Around what year did WP start dumbing down these machines to be "quieter" aka use way less water
The nasty sump pictured - probably about 7 years of family use. Typical? How often should one open up a WP DW like this? How similar are these gussied up KA machines to their WP and KM counterparts? Around what year did WP start dumbing down these machines to be "quieter" aka use way less water
