Whirlpool Belt drive Ball bearing

[kenmoreguy89]

Hi everybody.
I was trying again to fix the Belt drive wp that worked for awhile but then started to slow down during spin after some months of regular use.
At the time during installation I did not honestly remember to check for the ball bearing.
Basically I do not know if it was there or fell when I installed the thing.
As I was told the machine would not spin without it.
Anyway, now I removed the transmission
and couldn't find the ball.

Checked everywhere but nothing.
So I'm not sure it was already there in the first place.
Is that possible that it worked anyway for awhile without the ball? And is it possible that the lack of the ball is the responsible for the latest slow spin (slipping belt-like symptoms) troubles I had with the machine?
Anyway I need this darn ball now and over eBay there are T bearings plus the ball kits but cost alot for shipping (+20buck plus customs) so I would try to just find a suitable ball instead.
And here is the million dollar question: Do any of you know the exact size this ball should be?
Thanks.

 

[maytag85]

Without that ball in the t-bearing, it won’t spin worth a darn and that’s what happened to my Kenmore portable belt drive washer back in October of 2019. The older belt drive washers however don’t use a ball in the t-bearing and simply use a set screw that is tightened with a Allen key.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

So you say that the ball must have been there?
It used to spin for some months but it started to slow down and the basket would stay still if I stopped it with my hand. Like it had a slipping belt.
All of a sudden.
Anyway the ball is not there and looked everywhere and did not hear anything falling down while removing it.
I remember your video Sean, but I still do not fully understand the clutch system.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Is the plate supposed to go up and down? Mine is still like the one in my old spin tube/clutch thing and looks like it always is in contact with the pulley-like thing underneath both during wash and spin.

 

[gizmo]

1. What is your model number? If you search online for your exact model number's parts diagram, you should establish if your machine uses a ball or not.

 

2.If you suspect the belt is slipping, check the belt tension and adjust. Also check if there is any small leak that is wetting the belt.

 

3. I'd be checking if your clutch is out of adjustment. When the spin solenoid engages, it moves a linkage to connect the basket drive to the spinning pulley, forming a friction clutch. This is a critical adjustment, if it was a fraction out of adjustment it might have been spinning OK for a while but slipping, if the slipping continues it will wear the clutch faces which makes the problem worse. I don't remember where the adjustment is, it's over 10 years since I touched one of these machines. I have vague memories of adjusting lock nuts on a stud, is that right?

 

[kenmoreguy89]

And if it is supposed to go up and down I do not understand how.
Or why both are still even if I step on them.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

I am not sure of the model number since this is a 240v 50hz model for export.
But it is a classic 1984 Whirlpool.

The belt is not slipping and was well tensioned.
The friction looks like is there even during wash because the plate stays still it does not go up or down apparently nor I understand how is supposed to move or how I can adjust it to do that.

 

[gizmo]

This might help...

see link below.

https://www.appliancerepair.net/washing-machine-repair-3.html

 

[gizmo]

Model Number

It will have a model number on it.

Usually a small aluminium plate riveted at the back, perhaps on top, behind the control panel?

 

These were also made in Australia, made as 240V 50Hz. I think production here had finished by 1984, though. AFAIK Australian production stopped in late 1970s, but I'm not sure. So if yours is 240V 50Hz, there is a chance it was made in Australia. (??)

 

This photo, from this website, shows the locknut adjustment I mentioned. It appears that later models might not have had that adjustment, so you might have to replace the basket drive assembly. The link below shows the locknut adjustment in older machines. Scroll down to reply #14. (see link below.)

 

Read all of the appliancerepair.net link I posted above.

In particular, find Figure W20 - "T-Bearing" and below that diagram there is some text. The last point of this section, point 5, explains how to align the transmission after working on it. Basically loosen the transmission mounting bolts 1 to 2 turns, do a spin cycle with no water or clothes in the basket, then when it has finished, disconnect power and tighten the bolts from underneath without tipping or moving the washer. If you didn't do this when you last repaired the washer, the transmission might be out of alignment, which might be your problem.

I have never done this though, I didn't know about aligning the transmission till reading it just now.

 

I Love Whirlpool Belt Drive Washers

HI, I'm new here, and I'm glad to find out that I'm not the only one who is fascinated with vintage washing machines. My favorite type is the classic Whirlpool/Kenmore/Inglis belt drive machines. I grew up with one, and the things I liked about it where the sounds it made. The wine and hum of...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[kenmoreguy89]

I have already read that several times I was also sent a repair manual time ago but is not clear and detailed in the explanations.
Also it doesn't mention my case in the troubleshooting.
It does not say how the clutch lining which I think is the plate? Is supposed to stay lifted during wash and not have this friction.
I have the thing in front of me and I don't understand how.
What I see happening in my machine is of course the brake going up in wash mode and stopping the basket.
During spin after the drain the brake goes down as the spin cam is pulled back.
But I see the spin tube pulley gliding against the plate all the time apparently both wash and spin and not even moving a little bit I cannot understand if it supposed to pull up the plate during wash and how as that thing looks like is just a block meant to stay in that very same position all the time.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Sorry but it's everything so confusing I think I'm going to trow this washer.
I give up.
Thank you,

 

[kenmoreguy89]

I don't see the photo of the lock nut adjustment in the link you posted.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

I have more questuons than before now.
How can you tighten the transmission bolts without tilting the washer?

 

[kenmoreguy89]

My old transmission that was damaged with water did not have the bolt on the "clutch shaft" but the new one did.
Why it says they need to be replaced?

 

[kenmoreguy89]

[No message]

 

[kenmoreguy89]

Video

 

[kenmoreguy89]

And

I still have to understand the t bearing and ball purpose.

 

[114jwh]

T-Bearing

Perhaps post a picture of your T-Bearing. There were three different types used over the course of the BD run if I remember correctly and only one of the three used the steel ball. The timeline of which ones were used when is different between Canadian and US machines so its likely that Australian made machines have a different timeline too.

 

[kenmoreguy89]

This is the two T bearings I have from old and new transmission.
Regarding the model the tag was caked in limescale and soap, cleaned it but can't read well as the initial characters are basically covered by the rivet or whatever that is.
It appears it reads 5LA5700XMWO
I remember I searched it in the past but nothing came out so I assume it must have been a particular rare model number given for export models.
And is what in USA was called the same but without the initial 5?
The machine is a classic Whirlpool with straight vane (round agi base no clover like one).