I installed the 1989 Whirlpool, model LE5720XSWO dryer at my sisters a few months ago when her 2000 GE quit. The shaft in the temp switch was broken off when I got it. Was able to turn the stub of the shaft with a plier so I set to High heat and there have been no problems with it until tonight. I got a used heat switch and installed it tonight. The spades for the three wires were in different positions than on the original switch but were labeled the same and matched the codes on the wires. After installing I first tried on Fluff (no heat) and it ran without element coming on as expected. Next tried Low heat and element came on. Ran it on Low about one minute. When I tried High heat the element came on but after about 15 seconds I heard a click and element turned off. After that no heat on Low or High. I put old switch back in and no heat. Any thoughts? [this post was last edited: 11/20/2016-22:35]
Whirlpool Dryer stopped heating
- Thread starter ken
- Start date
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Bad limit switch?
That is the first thing I'd check. Ohm it out, should be very low.
That is the first thing I'd check. Ohm it out, should be very low.
Matt
Would this be what you're referring to? The thermal cut-off pictured on the left? #7 in the diagram in the link. [this post was last edited: 11/21/2016-11:02]
Would this be what you're referring to? The thermal cut-off pictured on the left? #7 in the diagram in the link. [this post was last edited: 11/21/2016-11:02]
There are two thermal fuses.
The one on the heater box is commonly called a "thermal cut-off" and will prevent the element from heating when it blows but I believe the dryer will still otherwise run. It's essentially a fail-safe for the high-limit thermostat that's lower on the heater box. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat should be replaced if the thermal cut-off blows.
The other is on the blower housing and is commonly called a "thermal fuse" (although both are the same kind of device). It blows if the exhaust air reaches whatever is the trigger temperature and then IIRC the dryer won't run at all.
Dadoes
Okay. The pic I posted above would be the first one you describe. Its sold as pictured with a new high-limit thermostat as a kit. The fact that the dryer still runs but doesn't heat and also that I heard a definite click before the element turned off would lead me to believe that is the problem.
Just seems strange to me the thermal cut-off went bad immediately after I changed the heat selection switch. What's the possibility the heat switch is bad and caused the demise of the cut-off and would do the same to a new replacement?
Here's a pic of the thermal fuse. From the appearance I would guess that just melts if overloaded and wouldn't make a click sound like a switch opening.
Okay. The pic I posted above would be the first one you describe. Its sold as pictured with a new high-limit thermostat as a kit. The fact that the dryer still runs but doesn't heat and also that I heard a definite click before the element turned off would lead me to believe that is the problem.
Just seems strange to me the thermal cut-off went bad immediately after I changed the heat selection switch. What's the possibility the heat switch is bad and caused the demise of the cut-off and would do the same to a new replacement?
Here's a pic of the thermal fuse. From the appearance I would guess that just melts if overloaded and wouldn't make a click sound like a switch opening.
Got it working again
Watched a couple videos on Youtube concerning no heat on a Whirlpool dryer. Showed the location of the thermal cut-off and thermostats. Gave info as to testing with Ohm meter and correct readings. When I tested the cut-off tonight it tested open so I figured that was the trouble. Down in the comments on the vid was one from someone who said he was ready to buy a new cut-off when his Whirlpool stopped heating. He went on Amazon ready to order a new one but read a comment from someone who said to take one that had quit working and slam it down on a hard surface like concrete. Seems there's a spring inside that trips. Giving it a sharp blow will reset it. So I took the cut-off and the multi meter out into the garage. I slammed it down on the floor and tested. No change. I slammed it down again harder. Tested it and had a correct reading of .1. Reinstalled it and the element heated.
My guess is the replacement heat switch I got has a problem on high setting which caused the cut-off to trip. I wasn't interested in testing my theory tonight so I left the old switch in it for now.
Just wished I had read the comment before buying a replacement cut-off and high thermostat on eBay today. But they were only $5.00 with free shipping so not too annoyed.
Watched a couple videos on Youtube concerning no heat on a Whirlpool dryer. Showed the location of the thermal cut-off and thermostats. Gave info as to testing with Ohm meter and correct readings. When I tested the cut-off tonight it tested open so I figured that was the trouble. Down in the comments on the vid was one from someone who said he was ready to buy a new cut-off when his Whirlpool stopped heating. He went on Amazon ready to order a new one but read a comment from someone who said to take one that had quit working and slam it down on a hard surface like concrete. Seems there's a spring inside that trips. Giving it a sharp blow will reset it. So I took the cut-off and the multi meter out into the garage. I slammed it down on the floor and tested. No change. I slammed it down again harder. Tested it and had a correct reading of .1. Reinstalled it and the element heated.
My guess is the replacement heat switch I got has a problem on high setting which caused the cut-off to trip. I wasn't interested in testing my theory tonight so I left the old switch in it for now.
Just wished I had read the comment before buying a replacement cut-off and high thermostat on eBay today. But they were only $5.00 with free shipping so not too annoyed.
dartman
Well-known member
You can short across the leads of the cutoff and if element then works the cut off is bad. First time I did mine after the vent hose got blocked I just replaced the switch, second time the local parts shop sold me both parts cheap explaining they should be replaced as a set. Never knew about the wacking it hard resetting it.
Don't know what the two year old dryer uses but probably something similar although it will throw up a error code if duct gets blocked.
Don't know what the two year old dryer uses but probably something similar although it will throw up a error code if duct gets blocked.
If a thermal cut off switch goes it's always better to replace it than not. It's a cheap safety issue.
Looks like you need to determine what caused the issue in the first place if you want to use the new control.
Looks like you need to determine what caused the issue in the first place if you want to use the new control.
As I said above my guess would be the replacement heat switch has an issue on High setting. Quite a coincidence that the thermal cut-off tripped first time I ran dryer after installing it. Had been operating for a few months with the original switch set on only High with no issue.
Did you test the element with the door open? How long did you give the dryer to cool down after the heater shut off?
I did test the dryer with the door open after installing the replacement heat selection switch if that's what you're asking. Ran okay on fluff and low heat. Ran it on low about one minute. When I switched to high the cut-off tripped after running about 15 seconds. Element did get red during that short time. Don't remember how long I waited (not long) before trying again. So I then put the old heat switch back in and tried again. No heat. That brought me to last night when I did what I did that got it heating again with the old switch in it which is set on high. When I got there to look at it last night there were two baskets of wet towels and jeans that had been washed. After I got it heating again and back together I threw them in and it dried them fine.
Open Heater Box Thermal Fuse
The temperature had nothing to do with the TF going open, the temp switch has no control on how hot the heater box gets.
The fact that it opened has more to do with running the dryer with the door open, or you have a heating element that is warped and shorting against the housing. You should open the heater box and check for signs of the element shorting or a cracked element plate.
John L.
The temperature had nothing to do with the TF going open, the temp switch has no control on how hot the heater box gets.
The fact that it opened has more to do with running the dryer with the door open, or you have a heating element that is warped and shorting against the housing. You should open the heater box and check for signs of the element shorting or a cracked element plate.
John L.
Open Heater Box Thermal Fuse
The temperature had nothing to do with the TF going open, the temp switch has no control on how hot the heater box gets.
The fact that it opened has more to do with running the dryer with the door open, or you have a heating element that is warped and shorting against the housing. You should open the heater box and check for signs of the element shorting or a cracked element plate.
John L.
The temperature had nothing to do with the TF going open, the temp switch has no control on how hot the heater box gets.
The fact that it opened has more to do with running the dryer with the door open, or you have a heating element that is warped and shorting against the housing. You should open the heater box and check for signs of the element shorting or a cracked element plate.
John L.
