Whirlpool dryer taking a long time to dry clothes

[maytag85]

“Parts for these dryers are surprisingly for the most part, impressingly”

That’s why the Whirlpool 29” top filter dryers are still quite popular. If something goes wrong, can be easily fixed at a reasonable cost. Even the 24” compact and portable dryers use the same drive motor, tensioner, rollers etc as the full sized 29” models. Only things that are different is the heating element and cut out temperature of the high limit thermostat.

May not be as efficient as some heat pump models, but if Whirlpool had this particular design since 1966 (yes, I know there’s been variations over the years), why change it? As long as they are serviced once a year (mainly cleaning lint that’s accumulated in the lint filter plenum), will never have problems and will for sure extend the life of the heating element and thermostats.

A Whirlpool 29” dryer is the equivalent of a Ford 300 inline 6 or a 289/302 small block, may not be the most efficient in the world, but can run for a long, long time when taken care of.

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #19

Sean, I think you may have explained this to me before, but it is easy to access the lint filter plenum to check that? If so, could you walk me through how to do it?

 

[maytag85]

Reply #21

1. Remove screws on the very top where the lint screen slides down
2. Remove screws that hold the rear panel in place
3. Remove screws on the bottom of the lint screen plenum

Once you remove the plenum, you can either vacuum the lint out or take it to the outside and spray it off.

 

[mark_wpduet]

My workaround is (and I've done this at least 10 yrs at this point.) My washer and dryer are not directly beside each other (meaning I can easily squeeze through to the back of my dryer.) The dryer is a not pushed up tight against the back of the wall either. so if I get behind the dryer it's pretty easy for me to do what I need to do...Sort of tight back there but not too tight.

Years ago, I came across a post something complaining of dryer lint. I think it was garden web laundry forum. A lady had said she and her husband lived in a condo and they had to deal with their vent run constantly clogging with dryer lint. Her husband got this idea to use a 1 gallon pain strainer (picture lining the paint strainer into the piece that connects the back of the dryer into the wall sort of like you would line a trash bag into a trash can) About every 4 loads, I get back there, pull it from the back of the dryer, take the strainer out, vacuum the lint off, put it back..It basically catches all the lint that escapes the dryer keeping it from going into the vent run or roof cap

I have the clamp just setting just right to push on/take off the back of the dryer.. It's snug enough not to come off on its own but not overly snug to where I can't get it back on... Takes me about 5 min's to clean and put it back.. It has kept the entire run lint free for ten or so years...I never have an issue with clothes drying since doing this. I could probably go more than 4 loads but I just get used to doing it around 4 loads. Since I'm the only one who does laundry I don't worry about the dryer getting ran and it not being cleaned.

When the lady first told me this is what she and her husband do.. My first thought was a fire hazard...but as long as you keep it clean, it's fine. Not so much as any sign of overheating. In fact, it's probably lessens the fire hazard since it keeps the run clean.. A clogged vent run IS a fire hazard. I remember thinking it might cause the dryer to overhead or it would block some airflow or something still causing the dryer to take longer.. but it does NOT. My clothes dry as fast as my grandma's dryer that was connected to an outside wall venting directly out.

This wouldn't be doable for most laundry situations though. Most people have their washer/dryer touching each other and pushed back up against the wall. (see picture)

I'm forever grateful to the nice lady who told me this. It has saved me such a headache of having something else to worry about doing.

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #23

Hey Mark, that's kind of genious actually. So to make sure I understand correctly, you put the paint strainer in the end of the vent hose that would usually connect to the wall but leave it disconnected, and attach to the other end of the hose to the dryer via a clamp as usual? Does your laundry area get really hot and humid doing this?

A note about clamps: have you ever tried a constant tension clamp? You just squeeze them to take them off the hose and release them and when you release them they spring back and hold the vent hose in place. Easier than a screw-type clamp IMO because you can take them on and off whenever and they're always the same amount of tension, thus constant tension. That might be a good thing for you since you're always having to take the vent off.

What I don't understand is why my vent run exits where it does, since the dryer is on an outside wall. Why, then, doesn't it just run straight out from the back of the dryer? I'm scratching my head about that design decision.

 

[helicaldrive]

Ingenious

Love the paint color in your laundry room!

 

[mark_wpduet]

No No... the dryer air gets exhausted outside through the roof; just the paint strainer catches any lint that escapes the dryer...see picture. I leave the tube connected to the wall (I never touch that part) the only part I touch is I pull the tube from back of dryer, take strainer out, clean it, put back in, pop tube back on back of dryer...there's never even a trace of lint even in the tube itself

Yep I know about those clamps...just haven't thought about getting any because this setup is so easy for me (so far)

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #26

Mark, thanks for the clarification, I just wasn't understanding because I'm blind so can't interact with pictures. Sorry about that, I just figured that was common knowledge by now among people who are on here regularly.

Sounds like my vent setup is similar to yours and it would appear maintenace is lousy about keeping it clean. Come to think of it though, I'm not really sure about whose responsibility that is, management has never been clear about that. They only provide the connections, it's up to us to bring our own machines if we so desire.

 

[mark_wpduet]

Oh wow... I remember reading that you or someone mentioned being blind but I just wasn't thinking... sorry about that.

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #28

As far as I am aware, there are two of us, myself and Jerome/GELaundry4Ever.

 

[luxflairguy]

Here in Wilmington NC I've had 3 customers dryers ducts cleaned this fall at $150.00 each. All required ladders and it was a small price to pay for clean ducts and faster drying. Why not spend the $$ instead of complaining? It's gotten kind of tedious...

 

[mark_wpduet]

think about it this way: Start with a clean dryer duct that has just been cleaned. After one month...you start losing airflow because the duct starts slowly building up lint...right? Month 2, even more. Month 3. More. Etc.. so while you haven't reached the "point" where you have someone come out to clean it...you're still increasing dry time while waiting for your appointment for someone to come out to have it cleaned. I would literally start with a clean duct and within 3 months I was totally noticing it. But it's not time to have it cleaned... It's only been 3 months...so wait for the year is up while dry times continue increasing.

It is CRAZY how much lint escapes the dryer

 

[combo52]

Dryer, duct systems, and duct cleaning issues

A properly run duck system should go many years before needing any cleaning, you should not have a buildup in a few months that would caused any noticeable performance loss of the dryer.

If you have a good exhaust system, the first thing I recommend is do not clean the lint filter on the dryer every time, the filter will work much better if you wait until the lint is between a quarter and 1/2 inch thick before you remove it.

All of my dryers have a pretty typical run only about 6 feet or so. A pipe with two elbows but I don’t clean those fence for 10 to 15 years at a time and even then it’s not seriously built up .

Hi Mark, could you post a picture of what you’re using for a filter? It is certainly not recommended to put a fine filter in the exhaust the way you’re doing it however because you’re checking it every couple loads it’s probably not gonna hurt anything, however, if I were you, I would put a temperature sensor in the top of the heater box And monitor the heater box temperature I suspect even the filter you’re using is making it run pretty hot. That way you could also tell by the temperature when the dryer is running when it’s time to clean your filter or the exhaust system system etc..

John L

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #30

Who the heck is complaining? I posted about this once before, maintenance told me it was taken care of once I brought it to their attention, and apparently it was not, or at least not very well, because the issue has reappeared. I didn't think I needed to call a professional because I thought the issue had resolved, and it had for a while. In other words, I took the advice of trying to get maintenance to take care of this, but apparently that didnt' work the way I'd hoped. I came back here looking for advice because the problem came up again, not to simply repeat myself. There are certain members here who write the same annoying posts over and over and I don't think that's me at all, so sorry you found my question "tedious" or what the heck ever. Have a great night.

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #32

A properly run duck system should go many years before needing any cleaning, you should not have a buildup in a few months that would caused any noticeable performance loss of the dryer.

Thank you John, this is why I came back to post about this, because it seemd premature for me to be dealing with it again. Contrary to the post above, I'd actually like a long-term solution, I'm not just "complaining." When you're disabled you often just have to take the word of others that a job was done, i.e., my inept apartment maintenance telling me the duct was cleaned when apparently it wasn't. So, I have to go back and figure out who dropped the ball, because someone did, whether that was maintenance or management. It's part of living independently as a disabled person, sometimes you realize jobs weren't done, sometimes people straight-up lie and say something was done when it wasn't.

 

[askolover]

Just wondering.....is there a screen over the hood outside?  We were staying in a condo in Florida once and the dryer just wouldn't dry the clothes.  Other residents said they had complained to their maintenance about it.  Said birds had built nests in the vent hoods so the maintenance crew in their infinite wisdom had put screens over the hoods....ding ding ding...that was the culprit.  The screens were blocking too much air flow and thus the dryers weren't venting enough.  I actually reached through the wall and pushed the screen out a little and bingo, the clothes dried in no time.

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #35

I'm not sure about that, since the vent hood is high up on the apartment wall and I can't see up there. I'll ask though when next I talk to management about this.

 

[mark_wpduet]

When I first moved into this house in 2004...get this one: I had had my duet dryer for less than a year and I called warranty on it because it was taking longer than I thought to dry clothes...2 guys came out and said my vent run was blocked after they checked the dryer...They said for me to have it checked and I said ok. As they got in their van and were leaving...he came back and said for my to raise the garage door that he thought he could get on the roof from the top of his van... so he did... He got up there and discovered the dryer vent cap for a bathroom exhaust vent cap...I called the builder and they sent someone out to put a proper dryer vent cap on (which they did) only they didn't take that screen off... I could walk outside and look up and see the lint being trapped on the screen.

1st and last time of me EVER getting up there because, although I've been on roofs before growing up with no fear, my roof was so freaking steep I was clinging for dear life...I got that screen off and said NEVER again am I getting up there.

Things got a little better for a while but over time I was noticing the dryer take longer and I knew what it was. The run is rigid metal with foil tape at the joints and looks like it's installed exactly how it should be

anyway - with this setup, I've felt the back of the dryer and all around it to see if I felt like it was getting unusually hot... and everything feels barely warm to the touch...all along the back...Not scientific... but feels normal to me... My dryer is from 2018, not 2019... I got the time-frame mixed with the the water heater..so that would mean my dryer is now 5 yrs old...no issues at all..

The thing that keeps me thinking things are perfectly fine is how FAST the clothes dry..I know there's PLENTY of airflow. To me, it's totally worth it not to ever have to deal with lint slowly clogging the run.

It's just a nylon paint strainer. here's the link for what I use and they are PERFECT for this and vacuum off easily

https://www.amazon.com/Strainer-Fil...llon+nylon+paint+strainer,aps,154&sr=8-1&th=1

 

[gelaundry4ever]

high temp

Try the highest setting which would be for normal cottons and see if that works.

 

[DADoES]

 
Jerome, increasing the drying temperature doesn't fix exhaust obstruction.[this post was last edited: 11/15/2023-13:31]