Whirlpool Gold Catalyst Direct Drive

[blockeight88]

Success!!!

Got the switch installed and the machine now works with the lid open. When I flip the switch to OFF and try to run on spin, it says OL on the control panel. I'm guessing that is good because its working. I also got my new detergent dispenser. This one was used in the calyspo machine.

 

[ron350]

You can use molex .093" male and female pins and plastic conectors and not cut any wires.

Remember the switch needs to be on the hot side of the circuit just like a light switch. I think that might be the black center wire on yours.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...kw=+molex+.093"+male+and+female+pins&_sacat=0

 

[blockeight88]

^

I had already cut the sides before so they’re all spliced together. Are you saying I need to reposition of the switch? I don’t quite follow. What do you mean by the wires needing to be on the hot side of the curcuif?

 

[blockeight88]

Ok I might need a little more direction on this switch so I don’t burn my house down. What did you guys do to mount it? I just used an adhesive.

 

[ron350]

I don't know how important it is for your application but if you ask an electrician he will say only put a switch on the HOT (120V supply) side of the circuit.

The reasoning behind this is if you put the switch on the neutral side the circuit will be looking for a ground making it easier to get shocked. Having a voltage detection pin sure come in handy it shows you which wire is HOT.

 

[blockeight88]

I still don’t quite follow. The switch had two black wire leads coming out of the switch itself. I followed the steps in another post Bout connecting each wire to machine wires. Can you be more specific? I know nothing about electrical wiring.

 

[blockeight88]

This is the exact switch I purchased if that helps.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-Heavy-Duty-Toggle-Switch-with-Leads-and-Protective-Boot/5001916089

 

[ron350]

That switch looks fine.

Klein NCV-1.

You pick up one of these pens or any other name brand non contact voltage testor.

It will tell you whoch of the wires is supplying 120V to the lid switch and run that wire through the new switch then back to the connector.

With one of these pen's you don't have to make any guess work about which color wire is the HOT supply wire. On my 1994 direct drive the hot wire feeding the lid switch is gray so i don't trust wire colors in 120 volt wiring.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-T...tage-Tester-Pen-50-1000V-AC-NCVT1PR/317460355

.

 

[blockeight88]

^

I appreciate your help, but I'm still confused and not following you. I really don't understand how this thing can connect any other way, unless you mean for me to swap the wires the switch has? I also don't understand how you were able to identify an issue from just the picture of the switch itself. I just really need this broken down because like I said, I don't understand electrical wiring.

 

[ron350]

That Catalyst washer is so complicated just leave everything like you have it now.
The last thing you want to do is fry that control board.

 

[blockeight88]

As long as nothing is going to cause a shock or fire, I'm good. Here are some detailed photos I just took.

 

[ron350]

Can't give any more advice or will be blocked from forum.

 

[blockeight88]

^

I understand. We don’t have to have any more conversations in regards to the lid switch or wiring.

Can someone assist me in adjusting the water pressure switch so the water fills all the way to the top? Is the catalyst water pressure switch the one on the far right?

 

[drummerboy928]

The water level pressure switch for the catalyst should be the one separated of by itself, at least it is on mine. I imagine if the main water level switch has the little set screw, it should be adjustable. The way you can check which one is which is to follow the hoses. The pressure switch with the hose that connects in with the little U shaped chamber in the back of the cabinet is used for recirculation, and the one attached to the side of the tub is for main fill.

 

[blockeight88]

Pressure switch

I made some adjustments to it. It is the one on the left. The gold one.

 

[blockeight88]

Pressure Switch

I got it. Turned it about a quarter of an inch and the level is perfect now.

 

[combo52]

Adding a lid switch bypass switch

Hi Matt, you did it correctly. You just wired in where the old lid switch was. It doesn’t matter what is hot and what is not it’s only a two wire switch.

There is no chance you’re gonna cause a fire or burn anything down, lol don’t overthink this.

John

 

[drummerboy928]

I’m not sure if you’ve seen this already, but this thread shows really good images of some of the components, should you be confused what some of them are or do. I’ve used this a couple times as it carries over to the Kenmore line too.

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?35600

 

[blockeight88]

Thanks John & Henry. Yes, I did see that thread and its full of very useful information. I have bookmarked it for future reference. I didn't even realize this was the same machine Glen has on his YT channel. YT doesn't really have many videos on these.

How much did these go for back in the day? I wish there was an old catalog that featured these just for the fun of it.

 

[drummerboy928]

I’m not sure, but it definitely would’ve been a top of the line machine back in the early 2000s when they were produced. They definitely put a lot of time and effort into these machines, and I have the original users guide, as well as the original VHS tape that came with the Kenmore catalyst machine that was essentially a visual users guide for it.