Whirlpool WTW4816FW3: Bad control board and Lowes warranty issues

[ryner1988]

Post subject basically says it all. After several weeks of my Whirlpool washer acting somewhat strangely, last weekend it exhibited enough of a weird behavior that I filed a claim through Lowes to have the machine serviced (my manufacturer warranty just ran out, so I'm stuck dealing with the extended contract through Lowes, which has been...pretty different). The washer would continuously run the drain pump after the cycle ended, even if I canceled the cycle. The only way to make it stop was to unplug the machine. In addition, most cycles would not spin. I could only get it to spin on the Rinse/spin cycle.

Surprisingly, technician appointment went smoother than most people report with this service contract. Problem is, the man diagnosed a bad controlboard and said the part needed to be ordered and that he would be back to install it when that happened. Inconvenient, but fine enough.

Now here's where things get interesting. This afternoon, I receive anEGift card in my emailfrom Lowes for the cost of the washer, plus tax. I did not ask for a replacement, I wanted a repair. My only guess is that since it was the control board, they deemed the cost of labor and the part comparable to a new machine? Should I try to fight this and get the washer repaired, or should I just call it a loss and get something else?

Also, a note of caution to Eddie/ea56 or anyone else who loves these washers. Apparently, this newest batch of this particular model is plagued by this control board issue. It's not uncommon for them to fail in just over a year, and it's pretty much the exact issue I'm having. I'm not sure if the quality control has gone down since this machine is now only sold through Lowes or what, but if you go on their website and look at reviews, you'll find many stories like mine. It's unfortunate, because they really are good performers, and apparently at one time, this control board problem wasn't as prominent, as evidenced by the fact that Eddie has owned his for nearly 6 years. It must be just this latest itteration of the 4816, as I don't see the same type of bad reviews on other VMW machines when I look.

So here's my real question. If I don't fight this, and just get something else, should I try again with the 4816, or get another model entirely from a different manufacturer, and if so, what would that be? Since I have over $500 to use on something new, I can pay the difference if I have to in order to get something better, even if it is more expensive.

Some advice would be really appreciated. This situation is honestly pretty stressful, I did not want to be here again.

Ryne

 

[pierreandreply4]

i would suggest you go with the speed queen tc5

If you have to replace your washer i would look into the speed queen tc 5

https://speedqueen.com/products/top-load-washers/tc5003wn/ or the maytag commercal grade non electronic washer https://www.homedepot.ca/product/ma...5437?msockid=0ff0dd6014916df43ea0cebd15aa6c04 rayner1988

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #1, I can't do that because Lowes doesn't sell those, and I didn't get the money back in cash. I received an EGift card, so it'll have to be a washer that Lowes sells. But thanks for the recommendation!

 

[DADoES]

 
Running the pump continuously is a flood fault.  It should time-out and stop if left running long enough.

 

[combo52]

Possible bad control problem

Now you're getting somewhere take the $500 credit use it for things you really need

A brand new board from whirlpool is $158 a rebuilt one from core centric is $99 with a one-year warranty and you can take a chance on a used one for $24 on eBay.

The board is not hard to change. I just changed one today on an eight year-old Maytag that had a different problem and I bought one from eBay for the customer for 50 bucks. Worked great.

Board part number is W11603810

I dare say you can do it yourself by feel all you need a quarter inch nut driver a putty knife, it may be a needle nose pliers.

John

 

[pierreandreply4]

like mention repair or look at this ge washer at your local lowes ryne1988

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-4-5-cu-ft-High-Efficiency-Agitator-Top-Load-Washer-White/5014110825

 

[kalanikaau1]

Interesting situation, with a major twist

I'm guessing that Lowes has gone with a different underwriter with regards to their extended warranty contract because I had to use the policy many times in the POS Whirlpool french door fridge I bought new almost 8 years ago.

The star-crossed appliance required so many repairs, both covered by Whirlpool and the underwriter that after 3.5 years the underwriter wrote the appliance off and mailed me a check for the original price of the appliance, plus a pro-rated amount of what was left on the extended warranty.

All in all the fridge racked up 11 service calls before the underwriter determined enough is enough, the last service call involved 3 door gaskets.

Amazingly the fridge lasted until just last month, until the compressor overheated and almost set my home ablaze.

There will be absolutely no new Whirlpool product in my home from now on.

For what it's worth, my washing machine is a Speed Queen top loader, circa 2008, it is the father of the TC5 and features a uber reliable mechanical timer.

If there's anything I don't need it's an appliance which "thinks" for me...

 

[mark_wpduet]

Ryan - this is what I would do personally...but I don't know your setup or if this would even work for you... but if it would work for you, I would get a front load washer instead of a top load (if that's possible for you) I don't know if your space wouldn't allow that of if that wouldn't work for you in other ways...and the Front loader I would get is an LG... even one of their cheaper models are supposedly pretty good, the ones that are more basic that don't have turbo wash...I think those can sometimes be had for $650..

as for Top load washers, there are literally NONE of them I like aside from Speed queen classic or possibly the Maytag commercial top load... Other than those, UGH... I think Amana makes a decent agiator TL washer that kind of works like old school ones... but they are so cheaply made

Seriously....are they not figuring out these control board issues after two decades??

I've gone through this EXACT same thing with my duet in around 2007 or 2008 when it was giving me error code F-DL (door lock) and it took several tech visits for him to diagnose it as being the control board. I think this went on for two months...I was luckily able to do laundry so it worked out...but sometimes replacing a control board can fix the machine and it can run for years more... at least that's my experience...

 

[DADoES]

 
<blockquote>Other than those, UGH... I think Amana makes a decent agiator TL washer that kind of works like old school ones... but they are so cheaply made</blockquote> Are you not aware that Amana is Whirlpool since 2006?  It came along with the purchase of Maytag.

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #7

Mark, oh trust me, with that$500 credit in my hot little hand I'm itching to just go ahead and plunk down the other $300 or so and get the Turbowash LG FL I've wanted for so long. The reason I didn't buy it to begin with is that my parents bought me this cheaper TL set. But I'd literally never be in a better position to afford the LG than with that gift card acting as an extremely heavy discount. But as John said above, probably better to save that gift card for when I really need it, and try to replace the control board on the machine I have if I at all can. Probably a wiser financial move to do that. God, being an adult sucks. LOL

 

[mark_wpduet]

Yes. I'm aware Amana, Maytag, Kitchenaid and other brands I can't think of are all Whirlpool. What on Earth would make you think I didn't realize that? LOL

Haha! I know it sucks...but that's what I would do...It sounds like you MIGHT have to go through some DRAMA to get them to fix it... especially since they've already sent you the credit for it... Hopefully it won't be too bad... Good luck with whatever you choose to do... Hopefully it goes smoothly and not too much runaround.

 

[ryner1988]

Oh I'm sure they won't fix it at this point. I was looking around last night and apparently the same thing happened to a lady with a broken dishwasher. Her control board was shot and they didn't even try to fix it, just sent her a credit for the purchase price of the machine. So this situation is more common than one might think. If I choose to fix it at this point, I'm on my own or I'd have to find another service tech to do it.

 

[pulsator]

Go for the LG! It’s a really nice machine!

 

[ryner1988]

Also, the lady's DW was just a couple weeks out of warranty, same as me, and Whirlpool didn't want to honor it any longer. Look around online and you'll find lots of weird horror stories about Lowes protection plans. It would seem that I came out pretty good compared to others, but I would have at least preferred they try to make good on fixing the washer, rather than just diagnosing a bad board and going bye. Ugh

 

[henene4]

Having worked in service with extended warranty contracts on this side of the pond, it can go one way or the other.

I had a Vestel made machine where after just 2 months drum paddle snapped.
Keep in mind this was THE CHEAPEST machine you could get, sub 200€.
They had one service visit - and they wrote the machine of because of a 3€ part.
Apparently, selling another machine was cheaper than getting a person out again.

Then, you have manufacturers who you have to remind that in the EU, after the third repair attempt for the same issue, they have to refund the appliance.

Be happy. Get one for the others as well.

 

[kalanikaau1]

Reply# 1

I have to disagree with your recommendation of the Maytag so-called "Commercial Grade" machine, it uses the vastly inferior suspension rod design as opposed the the TC5's incredibly stout and robust "milk-crate" method of locating the wash drum.

Unless, of course one does not mind having to periodically replace the Whirlpool's rods and associated hardware.

 

[ea56]

Ryne,
I'm really sorry that your Whirlpool has crapped out. But I read somewhere at least 5 years ago (maybe in the Maytag FAQ’s online, not sure) that sometimes unusual operation problems can be remedied by running a Clean Washer cycle. According to what I read this cycle recalibrates the control board. I have no idea why this is, but after reading this I tend to run the Clean Washer cycle 2-3 times a year, even though I wash at least one load a week with hot water and LCB.

Just for sh*t’s and giggle's it might be a good idea to try this, you’ve got nothing to lose, as long as the machine does still spin and drain you won’t be stuck with a washer full of water that you can’t drain. Maybe this may fix the problem.

Otherwise, I agree with John, take the refund you received and replace the control board your self.

I’m sorry that the control boards on these newer machines are problematic. All the more reason that I wish all washing machines still came equipped with old fashioned Electro-mechanical controls and timers. I never owned a washer equipped this way that had these old school controls fail on me. I’m glad as hell that my 6 year old BOL Roper just keeps chuggin’ along doin’’ what it’s supposed to do every time I press start.

Good luck, whatever you decide to do.

Eddie[this post was last edited: 12/14/2024-13:57]

 

[ryner1988]

Reply #16

Eddie, your experience was what I kept in mind when I bought this washer, because it's so similar to yours. In fact, I believe it's literally the same mechanically, just a step or two up in the line-up so a few more options on the control, but nothing whatsoever different otherwise. I felt relieved to know that I was buying something reliable and simple for me to use, so I was highly disappointed when I began having issues a few months in. Not what I was expecting at all, given how well your Roper has worked out for you.

Unfortunately, I've tried the clean washer cycle as you suggested, I remembered you mentioning something about that years ago so I figured I'd give it a go. Still the same issues persist. I also tried unplugging the washer, waiting a while, and then plugging back in. I even ran that weird calibration sequence that exists within the diagnostic/service mode. No difference.

I'm going to attempt to change the board and hope that fixes my problems. I just hope that when it finally comes time for you to replace your Roper, that you can find something as reliable as it was. Maybe these machines still are and I just happened to be one of the unlucky few who got a bad one.

I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[lakewebsterkid]

Duet

My Duet had weird quirks. It had a suspected bad control board within 1 year. It was fine for a number of years. It towards the end did not like to spin more than about 400 rpm on final spin. There was a work around, but required babysitting the machine. I couldn’t find an explicit “reset” procedure but leaving the machine unplugged between uses seemingly helped. As much as I loved my Duet, my Kenmore built LG is better in nearly every aspect. No board issues here! I too agree with getting an LG FL if possible.