scrubflex
Well-known member
Can the A806 Maytag washer wash more clothes than the early 70's GE washers?
Why does everyone think Maytag is so great?
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scrubflex
Well-known member
These 70's GE washtubs look wider and deeper than 80's and 90's washers.
scrubflex
Well-known member
A806
scrubflex
Well-known member
Correction...
"H" is for...what?
"H" is for...what?
"H" is for...what?
Harvest Gold
Harvest Gold
I think the GE Filter flo will wash a larger load, but it also uses more water.
A full cycle on a deep-tub Maytag is 40 gallons.
How many gallons does a large-tub GE use? Anyone know?
Ken D.
A full cycle on a deep-tub Maytag is 40 gallons.
How many gallons does a large-tub GE use? Anyone know?
Ken D.
The GE is around 50. I used to say that with my TOL GE set for a pre-wash, regular cycle and a second rinse that it would break the 100 gallon mark. More on Perm-Press cycle!
The Maytags of the 50’s 60’s and 70’s have a certain aesthetic to them, and even a TOL A806 set from the late 60’s or early 70’s doesn’t look that old or out of place and with the back lit fluorescent panel and definitely gives the A806 a timeless aesthetic
The maytags of yesteryear will always set the rather high standard for washers of that vintage. The fact that there are so very many still in use says volumes. It certainly cannot be said of ANY other machines ever made.
The Maytags with pitman trans and Mallory timer are like the W123 Mercedes diesels. Built like tanks with more emphasis on build quality and longevity and reliability rather than flash and flair. Those Maytags are to washers and dryers what the 240D was to automobiles.
we preached this a million times over....
Maytags were "Dependable"....emphasis on dependable....not overly great on washing, extraction, rinsing etc....
for the most part, if you under loaded them, they did a sufficient job...
but the dependable came from 'giving in' to the load....too heavy of a load, the belt would slip, and sacrifice cleaning to save the machine.....
machines like Frigidaire, Kenmore, Whirlpool, GE, Speed Queen powered through anything you threw at them...
no one machine was perfect for everyone....as described to me once from a service tech...it is based on what you do.....white collar workers, with just shirts and slacks, a Maytag would be fine....but if you were a blue collar worker, that could mean heavy twills and denim...a GE or Kenmore was selected
actually these blue collar guys, yes men, would select a Norge....of any machine out there for the time frame, it was the only one that offered a full 1 horsepower motor....
most Maytags were almost twice the price of a GE or Kenmore....
Maytags were "Dependable"....emphasis on dependable....not overly great on washing, extraction, rinsing etc....
for the most part, if you under loaded them, they did a sufficient job...
but the dependable came from 'giving in' to the load....too heavy of a load, the belt would slip, and sacrifice cleaning to save the machine.....
machines like Frigidaire, Kenmore, Whirlpool, GE, Speed Queen powered through anything you threw at them...
no one machine was perfect for everyone....as described to me once from a service tech...it is based on what you do.....white collar workers, with just shirts and slacks, a Maytag would be fine....but if you were a blue collar worker, that could mean heavy twills and denim...a GE or Kenmore was selected
actually these blue collar guys, yes men, would select a Norge....of any machine out there for the time frame, it was the only one that offered a full 1 horsepower motor....
most Maytags were almost twice the price of a GE or Kenmore....
I believed they were dependable and nearly 36 years later my 511 washer and 410 dryer proved that and still run like new with one $28 part in all those years. I could have bought another set at Sears for less but a little voice said get the Maytags. Glad now I did.
Yogitunes wrote:
Maytags were "Dependable"....emphasis on dependable....not overly great on washing, extraction, rinsing etc.... for the most part, if you under loaded them, they did a sufficient job..."
*********************
Extraction you say? 1966 and later Maytags do a spin-drain which spreads the clothes high on the tub, followed by a 618 RPM spin, a spin speed which they hold for a minimum of 3 minutes. They extract better than the average washer from the era.<span style="font-family: serif;"> </span>
<span style="font-family: serif;">There is no need for under-loading these machines, just don't overload them. If you overload them, they will protect themselves from such abuse. My 1972 A606 will wash 5 pairs of heavy Carhardt cargo pants, 38 X 34, and has no problem turning them over during the 2-minute deep rinse. Those pants are made of heavy canvas, like they used to make Boy Scout tents from.</span>
<span style="font-family: serif;">T</span><span style="font-family: serif;">he biggest problem with the old Maytag machines, as I see it, is that you can't possibly learn load the machine properly with the lid-switch being operational. Also, when I add bleach to my underwear with 4 minutes left in the wash cycle, I want the machine to be agitating.</span>
[this post was last edited: 2/16/2020-16:32]
Maytags were "Dependable"....emphasis on dependable....not overly great on washing, extraction, rinsing etc.... for the most part, if you under loaded them, they did a sufficient job..."
*********************
Extraction you say? 1966 and later Maytags do a spin-drain which spreads the clothes high on the tub, followed by a 618 RPM spin, a spin speed which they hold for a minimum of 3 minutes. They extract better than the average washer from the era.<span style="font-family: serif;"> </span>
<span style="font-family: serif;">There is no need for under-loading these machines, just don't overload them. If you overload them, they will protect themselves from such abuse. My 1972 A606 will wash 5 pairs of heavy Carhardt cargo pants, 38 X 34, and has no problem turning them over during the 2-minute deep rinse. Those pants are made of heavy canvas, like they used to make Boy Scout tents from.</span>
<span style="font-family: serif;">T</span><span style="font-family: serif;">he biggest problem with the old Maytag machines, as I see it, is that you can't possibly learn load the machine properly with the lid-switch being operational. Also, when I add bleach to my underwear with 4 minutes left in the wash cycle, I want the machine to be agitating.</span>
[this post was last edited: 2/16/2020-16:32]
Ken....
we have done the spin test many times here before....
after the regular cycles allowed time for spin, we have reset the timer for a full final spin again, placing the drain hose into a bucket, only to see how much more water was extracted the second time around...
we also done test of placing a board against the motor, and applied more pressure to the belt....only to hear the increase in spin speed...
also found it better to add the third spring to the motor carriage...
without the 50hz setup, always found it best to wash 1/2 loads if you wanted vigorous wash action...especially on the larger capacities...
your mileage may vary....
we have done the spin test many times here before....
after the regular cycles allowed time for spin, we have reset the timer for a full final spin again, placing the drain hose into a bucket, only to see how much more water was extracted the second time around...
we also done test of placing a board against the motor, and applied more pressure to the belt....only to hear the increase in spin speed...
also found it better to add the third spring to the motor carriage...
without the 50hz setup, always found it best to wash 1/2 loads if you wanted vigorous wash action...especially on the larger capacities...
your mileage may vary....
I have only one spring on my motor along with the stock pulley, and it has no problem reaching 618 RPM on a large load at just around the 2 minute mark, leaving about 3 minutes of full speed spin. If your machine does not do this, there is something simple wrong with the glides.
>> after the regular cycles allowed time for spin, we have reset the timer for a full final spin again, placing
>> the drain hose into a bucket, only to see how much more water was extracted the second time around...
In the interest of accuracy, that's not really a scientific test method...
Measuring water deposited into a bucket after moving the hose is only telling you the amount of water the washer pumps out, not the amount (or additional amount) it extracts from the clothing. The amount it pumps out is a function of the hose end height, the hose length and routing, the volume (and resulting velocity) of the fluid moving through the hose, and even factors such as restrictions in the hose, stiff pump bushings, tension on the pump belt, etc. Moving the hose changes several of those factors.
With the right conditions, you could get quite a bit of water pumped into the bucket without any meaningful extra extraction having actually occurred in the clothing. The presence of water in the bucket doesn't prove that the second spin removed anything at all.
One would have to remove the pump and discharge hose entirely and switch to an open gravity floor drain system straight from the tub outlet to be able to collect & measure additional extraction with any real accuracy... and since the Maytags use the height of the discharge hose to hold the water in the tub, you would have to add a valve to hold water in to be able to do the initial fill/agitate... It would take a little work to set up that test!
>> the drain hose into a bucket, only to see how much more water was extracted the second time around...
In the interest of accuracy, that's not really a scientific test method...
Measuring water deposited into a bucket after moving the hose is only telling you the amount of water the washer pumps out, not the amount (or additional amount) it extracts from the clothing. The amount it pumps out is a function of the hose end height, the hose length and routing, the volume (and resulting velocity) of the fluid moving through the hose, and even factors such as restrictions in the hose, stiff pump bushings, tension on the pump belt, etc. Moving the hose changes several of those factors.
With the right conditions, you could get quite a bit of water pumped into the bucket without any meaningful extra extraction having actually occurred in the clothing. The presence of water in the bucket doesn't prove that the second spin removed anything at all.
One would have to remove the pump and discharge hose entirely and switch to an open gravity floor drain system straight from the tub outlet to be able to collect & measure additional extraction with any real accuracy... and since the Maytags use the height of the discharge hose to hold the water in the tub, you would have to add a valve to hold water in to be able to do the initial fill/agitate... It would take a little work to set up that test!
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