WSJ Editorial Board: Make Dishwashers That Clean Again

[tomdawg]

Dish drawer?

For those of you who have multiple loads to run, would the fisher paykel dishdrawer be a better option? I guess the idea is run more often with smaller loads..
not sure if some of you guys out there that have dishdrawer and don’t really have this problem.
We run into this problem... mainly because the wife or I forgot to run the dishwasher the night before. So sometimes it runs twice in one day.

 

[lordkenmore]

>I would love to see a real parts breakdown and reliability study of the various WP models

It would be interesting.

I can't qualify as any sort of expert...but I have thought that a more expensive appliance may not buy anything past more features. Performance and lifespan might not be much different vs. a lower end model (at least as long as one isn't at the rock bottom "it's cheap because it's cheap, not just because it costs little" level). Actually, reliability of a lower end model might be better: fewer features=less stuff to break.

 

[mark_wpduet]

Yep

I've thought of this. Buying the very expensive TOL appliance may not yield any more longevity than the BOL which is SAD!!!

Is a water heater an appliance? Anyway- we just got a new one. I noticed that the BOL had a 6-year limited warranty but the TOL had a 12-year limited warranty. So maybe TOL does get you better build quality? I don't know. I just assumed mostly today the TOL got you more features, or larger capacity - but pretty much the same build quality underneath.

 

[chachp]

More Money = More Features and/or Better Build Quality

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">I don't think we can say this is true across the board with all manufacturers but it's been my experience that it's usually true.  </span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">My most recent experience of this was when I was shopping for a dishwasher.  I noticed that just in the BOSCH line alone those machines that costs less had racks that were not as adjustable as those in the higher cost models (feature) and noticed that the lower end models had a plastic bottom while the higher end were all stainless (build quality?).  Does this matter in the long run?  Each person will have a different answer because we all use different criteria to evaluate.  I wanted the third rack, etc. so I had to pay a little more to get it.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: 'book antiqua', palatino; font-size: 14pt;">Another example for us last year was when one of our door openers went out.  Since both were almost 20 years old we decided to replace both which is not an inexpensive endeavor (and I'm a little OCD and wanted them to match ).  I did a lot of research and found big differences in the features and build quality among the lower end models through to the higher end.  In the end I went for the better warranty (I got ten years), what is supposed to be a better drive mechanism and had the WiFi abilities I wanted.  I also was able to purchase from a local Overheard door franchise which I try to do whenever I can.  And because it wasn't a big box store I was able to negotiate a better price since I was buying two instead of one.  I try to support local when I can vs. the big box stores.</span>

 

[DADoES]

 
Part of the cost increase on higher-end models IS for the increased warranty coverage, if that's a touted benefit.  Consider Speed Queen's toploader line -- TR3, TR5, TR7.  Each higher model has a longer warranty (3 yrs, 5 yrs, 7 yrs ... notwithstanding their current promotion of 10 yrs on all), and more features which are just more options enabled on the electronic controls.  The mechanical operational components are otherwise identical from one to another.

 

[combo52]

Most Reliable and Longest Lived DW in WPs lineup

Would likely be the $299 machine, the highest end models differently have many more problems.

 

Likewise the lower end Bosch DWs are considerably longer lived and less problem prone than their high end models, however Bosch DWs are much flimsier than WP built machines, the number of broken handles, rack wheels and even bent doors we see on Bosch DWs shows that they are not a good choice for rentals and student housing situations, LOL

 

With appliances like water heaters , furnaces and central A?C units the more expensive models will generally last longer and cost less to operate.

 

Garbage disposers are a good example of getting what you paid for, aTOL ISE disposer will cost 3 or 4 times as much as a Bager but will last 2-3 times as long and will not clog your drains.

 

Range hoods are another good example of getting a much better product if you pay more.

 

John L.

 

[henene4]

Bosch DW wheels

Yeah, those are the worst part on these machines.

For some reason, they always break when used heavily, the clips on them just snap...

 

[gelaundry4ever]

my experience with modern dishwashers

I have the Kenmore dishwasher model 13222 with thE powerwave wash arm. It does a great job of cleaning dishes. The door is the heaviest out of all the dishwashers my family has owned. It's running as I speak now. I always use smartwash, high temp wash and heat dry as well as cascade detergent and rinse aid. You can hear the sheer force of the water jets when it is empty. it alternates wash arms like Bosch would. It seems that American manufacturers are learning from the Europeans, starting with Frigidaire when it comes down to washing. One time, I ran it with the door open, and water shot across the room when the bottom arm operated. I don't care about long cycles anymore because I do other things, like laundry or TV. just my thoughts. it depends on how jets operate too.

 

[sudsmaster]

Water heater longevity...

It's my impression that warranties on water heaters have mostly to do with the number and quality of the anode rods in the heaters. More anode rod means less corrosion of the glass lined steel tank, and a longer tank life.

 

There may be other bells and whistles, of course, to go along with a higher price.

 

I'm keeping my 40 year old water heater going by replacing the anode rod every 10 years or so. I also flush it out every three or four years. It's probably due now. Seems to run fine. The only hiccup in the last 20 years has been the pilot got plugged up and the entire thing stopped producing hot water. That was about two years ago. There's no sediment trap in the gas line to the heater, which means some gunk got into the pilot circuit. It wasn't hard to fix once I figured out what the problem was, and it's been running fine since. Nope, haven't put a sediment trap in the line yet. Lazy.

 

I did add another layer of insulation to the tank, and some foam insulation on the hot water pipes under the house. I think it helps. We'll see.

 

Better water heaters have two or more anode rods. One as a free standing one, which is basic. The other one is incorporated into the cold water inlet (a long pipe called a dip tube that puts cold water to the bottom of the tank, so it gets heated faster without unduly cooling the entire tankful). Although on my water heater, the dip tube is plastic. I know that because I replaced it at one point.

 

There are also two types of anode rods. The most common around here are magnesium, and they have a little raised dot in the center of the anode rod attachment nut at the top of the water heater. The other type is aluminum, and has a flat nut. I think the magnesium ones are better, but in some locations aluminum is used because the magnesium isn't as well suited to the water quality. And aluminum rods are cheaper.