Your Collection Installation?

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support AutomaticWasher.org:

cadman

Well-known member
Bronze Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2004
Messages
1,583
Location
Cedar Falls, IA
Hey guys,

Seems like we have a lot of knowledgeable folks on this board often discussing the pros/cons and do's and don'ts of HVAC, elec distribution, plumbing, water heaters, etc. I know a lot of you have permanent systems in place to support your washers and dryers, too. Now that I'm laying out the water distribution and drain system in the new studio (elec feeds complete), I'm second guessing my old 1/2" copper runners I built to feed up to 6 machines (I have a tendency to start multiple machines filling at once)! Then again, the price of 3/4" copper is insane.

So lay it on me, what's your current setup and drain scheme? Garden hoses? PEX? 3" PVC? And those proud of their electrical setupfeel free to wax here too! Would love to see everyones' approach...
 
Keep it simple, Keep it code

My honey and I had to work with the following limitations:
1/2 copper hot and cold
1 1/2 drain pipe
2 20amp circuits, 120V
1 240 40amp circuit, 240V, Split Phase (oh, gods, let's not go THERE again, ok?)

The 1/2 copper pipes were not a problem, we have very good pressure here. Don't forget, your washers never fill at full pressure, the valves reduce the pressure quite a bit. Suggestion: Try filling several machines at once with your current setup and see how it goes. If your house pressure is too low, 3/4 pipe won't help either.
The drain was my biggest concern. I installed a special anti-siphon/breather cap on top of the stack and used the more expensive diverter 'Y' connectors (the drain water hits a diverter shield in the pipe and can't flow into the hoses of other attached machines.
No problems so far, been in use for nearly two years. I did anchor the plastic pipe to prevent sags and left plenty of space for clean outs.
The Maytag and the non-heated FL both share a single 20 Amp branch circuit. Never had a problem, but, again - our supply is stable.
The Thumper has her own branch circuit and I do think she benefits from it. Even with the start capacitor, she does draw heavily and there is no way to get her motor replaced on our budget. I went to 12/2 instead of 14/2 on the wiring, used genuinely professional grade (not the home depot leviton crap) outlets and GFI'd her. Also paid attention that all the machines are grounded and (oh, gods, here we go again) bonded to make sure all plumbing and metal surfaces are at equal potential.
The flexible lines to all the machines are stainless steel braided neoprene with, unfortunately, the now mandatory (and way too touchy) flood-proof system. Avoid that if you can. The bounce from other machines turning their water valves off was triggering the damn things constantly. Solved it (and made it pointless) by using flexible 'Y' hoses. They give enough to absorb the sudden rise in pressure and solved the problem.
My partner nayed the plastic pans under the machines, so I settled for a battery powered water leak detector, placed at the lowest point on the laundry room floor.
Leveling the machines was important, choosing locations so their vibrations (especially our favorite, the Thumper, Lady Pank) didn't cause problems was a chore. If you can, think that one out first and be generous with the cement platforms where needed.
The dryer was the least of our worries, but when the 1958 Westy Slant Front goes on line this summer, I may have to drift in another 240V line. There's a good reason why the manufacturers insist on separate branch circuits for these consumers, tho' I know many here have shared circuits without problems...again, I worry about brown-outing irreplaceable motors.
Hope this helps. Most important in the end was keeping things clean, simple, well labled and accessible.
 
What I did..

to make sure that I had enough water and power for those Frigidaires! A two inch water line into the house! and...

7-22-2008-15-28-25--lightedcontrols.jpg
 
Well at least in Mark's house I can use my tootbrush and vibrator at the same time!

A FAR FAR FAR cry from the 110v 30a (2 x 15a circuits) my present place has. UGH!
 
As I live in an apartment on 6th floor and my building is very tall, i don't have problems with water pressure.
Actually I have all my washers instaled in the same line (I removed the tap and installed a nipple in it's place and T connectors in every washer.
I love to load al the washers, select the programs and finally turn them on exactly at same time.
I never had a probem with low pressures.
When they reach the first drain I pause them sequentially to drain all of them at same time. The water goes to a sink and if I use high level on all top loaders the sink almost overflood. (If I add a single glass of water it will cause a disaster LOL)
My electrical installation was designed by an Electrolux's engineer. I have an exclusive circuit breaker and wires for each one of my machines, plus a Simplex fire alarm pull station instaled as emergency shut off button. once activated, it activates the Merlin Gerin's DR device, which cuts the power of all machines.
I need to reset and reassembe the pull station and rearm the GFCI device.
 
Perhaps, and only a suggestion, to save power and counter space, the electric toothbrush and vibrator could be combined into one appliance to avoid overloads in both the electrical and personal orifices?
 
what a subject drift LOL!!!! LMAO!!! ahem, however i also wanted to know how some of you members pulled off multiple appliances interesting....
 
~One would just need to remember which ...to use where.
It's all a matter of color-coding!

So Mark how many sub-panels do you have coming off those boxes?

Lookls like the live feeds are from the bottoma and five nice thick cables leave from the top.
 
I used pvc 3" drain lines with standpipes for every two or three machines where needed, 1 1/2" for single machines. In the south room, the drain line is on the floor as it goes into a floor drain and in the north room, the drain line is hung on the wall running around the room to the 2" line for the kitchen. I haven't had any trouble with either of them but I don't run more than a couple of machines at a time and try to stagger them so they aren't pumping out full tubs of water at the same time. The painted concrete floor isn't my favorite but it doesn't get ruined every time a bit of water gets loose either.

For supply lines, I have 1/2" copper for hot and cold. It's worth spending the extra money for the brass ball-valves up front - I've had a few of the cheaper ones go bad, not leaking but not able to shut them off completely. Mine are connected with standard washer supply hoses to the 3/4" bibs in each room. I figured that it was easier to do it this way in case I ever decide to sell the house, just pick up the lines and take them away before the sign goes in the yard.
 
Toggle!

There are three sub panels. One in the appliance showroom, one in the parts room, and one in the theater. Having POWER IS AWESOME!!! (sorry, for a minute I thought I was the Hulk) LOL! Mark
 
Mark, that's how it's done! Nice setups and tips from everyone. I've got the power situation licked (hmm, given the subject drift, maybe I shouldn't go there!), but drainage will be my biggest unknown. I have fond memories of suds and water spewing forth from my risers in the old basement in which, of course, you didn't know until it was too late.

Anyone seen the CLEAR "PVC" drain pipe advertised at the box stores? Sounds fairly disgusting for most applications, but would be a cool diagnostic indicator in a washer setup.
 
Back
Top