GE Washers Exploding

[combo52]

Different automatic washer, suspension systems

Hi whirlpool 862, GE filter flow washers from 1961 through 1995 had a hanging suspension system. They had no springs in the suspension system, the entire inner wash basket agitator transmission motor assembly was hanging on a cable from the top of the cabinet. It was a crude suspension system much like whirlpool belt drive machines that hung from the top of the cabinet, the thing that made the whirlpools work better was the fact that cabinet was 29 inches wide and had good self leveling feet.

GE filter flows walked like crazy until they put self leveling feet in the back in the mid 60s. They were a lot better after that, but it was still a crude machine that couldn’t take a lot of speed.

GE filter flow machines again were very crude the very first load you did in the machine if it went out of balance, the inner tub was striking the outer tub and the porcelain enamel was flying everywhere in time. A lot of them rusted through because the enamel was worn away where the two tubs contacted each other.

Currently on top loading washers, the most sophisticated suspension that allows the fastest spin speeds without excess noise and vibration are hanging suspension machines.

I have never seen a T model GE washer damage itself from an unbalanced load. This is just plain nonsense. The original T model machines had little rubber straps in the four corners at the top designed a suspension limiters it was found that with better hanging spring struts that these were not necessary so they were eliminated if they break as they often did on the early models. It didn’t make any difference.

And just to reiterate, every front load, washer is hanging suspension machine hanging suspension machines have the advantage of a much more rigid solid cabinet because the cabinets not just there to hid the mechanism. It’s actually a structural part of the machine.


As to oiling the pump bearings on Maytag dependable care, water pumps it certainly not a bad idea after 20+ years, but keep in mind. I have never seen a Maytag washer pump seize from lack of oil. The only time they failed is when water gets past the seal into the bearings and also rare cases where the impeller comes loose on the shaft or the fins actually wear off the rubber impeller and then they don’t pump water anymore.

The removable screw is not really meant as an oiling point. The screw is there to hold the diecast bearing holder in place in the plastic housing, if Maytag had wanted the pump to be oiled, they would’ve put a more convenient size oiling port on the pump.


John L

 

[vacerator]

The only hanging design exception being the old belt drive Whirlpool. The rods are thick and strong, and anchored in rubber snubbers held down by the corner angle braces on the cabinet. Then the heavy steel transmission, tub, and motor base provide self centering. It took more off center load weight to trip the out of balance buzzer. "Sorry Combo52" I didn't see your above post before. My alert took me to page 2.

 

[phillymatt53]

As to oiling the pump bearings on Maytag dependable care, water pumps it certainly not a bad idea after 20+ years, but keep in mind. I have never seen a Maytag washer pump seize from lack of oil. The only time they failed is when water gets past the seal into the bearings and also rare cases where the impeller comes loose on the shaft or the fins actually wear off the rubber impeller and then they don’t pump water anymore.

The removable screw is not really meant as an oiling point. The screw is there to hold the diecast bearing holder in place in the plastic housing, if Maytag had wanted the pump to be oiled, they would’ve put a more convenient size oiling port on the pump.

John L

I beg to differ with you about that screw on the Maytag pump.
First off, that screw that I removed has a very short threaded part.
Maybe 3 or 4 threads at best.
It cannot possibly reach far enough into the plastic housing to even get near the metal bearing.
In fact, as previously pictured post #48, you can clearly see the wick in the slotted opening of the metal bearing.
Which is what I actually saw too, when shining a flashlight into that screw-hole.
And even IF that screw was long enough to reach inside, it would still only land up against the wick, surely not enough pressure to hold the tubular metal bearing shaft in place as you say.

 

[pstehle]

I repaired a Gibson eons ago that had a nail drop through a hole in the bottom of the basket, and cut a neat arc right through the outer drum. I also don't recall a belt-drive Whilpool ever exploding, and those were pendulum suspension, no? Of course, the cabinet wasn't tinfoil, and the frame was made of actual metal, and they didn't rely on cheap springs and plastic-silicone grease dampers on the bottoms of the rods... I always sort of joked that the WCI stuff that had the "leather" embossed sheet metal in the cabinets was because it acted as a structural stiffener to the paper thin steel... Remember the Frigidaire dryers that needed every screw to keep the cabinet from racking? If a couple got stripped out, you were hosed...