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Now that is a dryer! Lucky you. I think all dryers should be like this today.
Yeah, but I’ve seen the Simpson Malleys dryers with two lights and a push button, the push button would start the dryer and then the dryer would run until the clothes are dry I’d love to have that like a feature on my Westinghouse but that’s all electronics.
 
Yeah, but I’ve seen the Simpson Malleys dryers with two lights and a push button, the push button would start the dryer and then the dryer would run until the clothes are dry I’d love to have that like a feature on my Westinghouse but that’s all electronics.


Well, that feature has limitations- for me at least. Things like comforters can appear dry on the outside and not the inside. Mixed loads. Shoes. Dryer racks, ect.

Timed is the most promising, it gives the user maximum control. It is also the most reliable. Easiest to diagnose and replace. There are only two contacts which are opened end cycle by a rotating drum.


The Mallory style two contact timer below has to be the most reliable thing ever created in the appliance industry. Absolutely love it, I wish it was the norm.



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@Chetlaham would you happen to know what was the matching washer to this inglis liberator dryer when i took the pic my grandmother had a direct drive whirpool washer but she had this dryer paired with a 3 cycle push to start inglis liberator washer with just the 5 wash rinse temp knob no water level then with a 1988 kenmore belt drive and till 2009 with the direct drive whirlpool washer in the pic


Sorry, I have no idea to be honest. I have no experience with Inglis. However the closest thing Whirlpool/Kenmore wise would be a two cycle washer with Heavy/Normal and Permanent press with a water level selector:


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Do you know what cycles and temps were offered on the dry?
 
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Timed drying may be simpler, unfortunately you can at times set the timer for not enough time, or set it for too long which can lead to over drying in some cases.

Never had a problem with the auto dry on my Maytag DE806, would shut off at the dryness selected.

Still have to use my Whirlpool Imperial Mark 18 dryer some more to get a feel and sense of how the auto dry will work. Today was the first successful load that dried to completion. Ended up having to use an adjustable cycling thermostat (technically it’s L175-40) for the quote “moisture sensor”, since it’s set at 135F and doesn’t open until 95F and the low heat cycling thermostat opens up at 135F and closes at 125F, it’ll only open up once it reaches the cool down. The thermostat that’s being used for the “moisture sensor” more so or less is a damp dry thermostat, doesn’t advance the timer until it opens up.
 
If you don't know how to gauge the load well. I can see how timed dry could and has been misused. Regardless I don't believe that should be a reason to restrict timed dry or push auto dry cycles.

If you are going to offer auto dry and skimp on the timed dry, at least offer an "ultra dry" or "ultra heavy" setting that offers a substantial amount of time between the start and off point for things like the dry rack.
 
Auto dry is one of the features I really like on my tumble dryer, it's the sort that uses an extra thermistor to try to determine moisture content, I rarely use it on timed dry, only when there's not enough time to fully dry the wash before the end of the cheap rate economy 7 electricity period, when the electric rates switch back to full price.

It's not perfectly accurate, some of the items will often need to go back on when I use "cupboard dry" (the driest setting), like clothing with thick cuffs, but that usually doesn't take much more than an extra 10 - 20 minutes or so. On "delicates" it turns the element on and off to reduce the temperature, and it can sometimes end up extending the drying time by as much as an extra hour, but when I tested it with a power monitor, because it runs with the element off so much, it appears to use a fair bit less electricity than full heat with a similar load.

The dryer is about 18-19 years old and the electronics have been fine. Electronics can be made reliable if the manufacturer wants, and doesn't overly cheap out on the design or components. The mechanical timer on the previous dryer I used burnt up about that age, although that was purely an assembly issue, they'd managed to miss one of the spade terminals when connecting up the wires, and wedge a female spade connector tightly down the side of the terminal, and it took over 20 years to work loose. And I was able to easily repair it, by cutting all the melted plastic away, including the burnt carbonised plastic corner off the timer, and melting some plastic around the timer terminal that had melted out of position, to remount it and the internal contact where it belonged.
 
Auto dry is one of the features I really like on my tumble dryer, it's the sort that uses an extra thermistor to try to determine moisture content, I rarely use it on timed dry, only when there's not enough time to fully dry the wash before the end of the cheap rate economy 7 electricity period, when the electric rates switch back to full price.

It's not perfectly accurate, some of the items will often need to go back on when I use "cupboard dry" (the driest setting), like clothing with thick cuffs, but that usually doesn't take much more than an extra 10 - 20 minutes or so. On "delicates" it turns the element on and off to reduce the temperature, and it can sometimes end up extending the drying time by as much as an extra hour, but when I tested it with a power monitor, because it runs with the element off so much, it appears to use a fair bit less electricity than full heat with a similar load.

The dryer is about 18-19 years old and the electronics have been fine. Electronics can be made reliable if the manufacturer wants, and doesn't overly cheap out on the design or components. The mechanical timer on the previous dryer I used burnt up about that age, although that was purely an assembly issue, they'd managed to miss one of the spade terminals when connecting up the wires, and wedge a female spade connector tightly down the side of the terminal, and it took over 20 years to work loose. And I was able to easily repair it, by cutting all the melted plastic away, including the burnt carbonised plastic corner off the timer, and melting some plastic around the timer terminal that had melted out of position, to remount it and the internal contact where it belonged.
Here’s one thing to note, on some of the Kenmore High Speed and Soft Heat dryers from the early to mid 1960’s, timed drying was more than enough since it would begin to taper the heat down once it reached a certain temperature. If you were drying a small load in a Kenmore Soft Heat gas dryer and selected 40 minutes of dry time, it would start out with the full 37,000 btu heat output and once the air in the exhaust outlet reached a certain temperature, it would begin to gradually taper the burner down to a much lower heat output. By that point, the burner would be off right before the cool down. Essentially timed drying on a Kenmore soft heat dryer was sort of an auto dry feature.
 
My SmartLoads are accurate and consistent at normal Dry level across a range of load-types. Jeans, blankets, shirts, towels/socks, sheets, mixed cargo shorts/briefs/some towels.

One of them (presumably either of them) moved to my mother's house, she must set it at Extra Dry to get her loads fully dry but they are and also consistently. There is one difference between here and there that is the only factor I can figure to account for the operational change. Anyone have a guess what is it?
 
My SmartLoads are accurate and consistent at normal Dry level across a range of load-types. Jeans, blankets, shirts, towels/socks, sheets, mixed cargo shorts/briefs/some towels.

One of them (presumably either of them) moved to my mother's house, she must set it at Extra Dry to get her loads fully dry but they are and also consistently. There is one difference between here and there that is the only factor I can figure to account for the operational change. Anyone have a guess what is it?
Length of the vent hose / duct?
 
Length of the vent hose / duct?
My exhaust is straight through an exterior wall. I can reach through the hood and touch the blower wheel. However, the wall port is a few inches too close to a corner so I must set the dryer at an angle to avoid some airflow obstruction (see photos). My washer is set at an angle to match. There's room to allow for it.

Mom's dryer is also at a corner but the wall port is in the side wall ... so a 90° turn (elbow) from the dryer with the duct length being half the width of the dryer plus some inches for space at the side wall for room to hang a broom and mop beside the dryer. The exhaust arrangement isn't the difference I'm considering.
 

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I don't notice any real difference in drying times when a dryer has a drum moisture sensor and one in the exhaust plenum from one that only has one in the exhaust. Which has priority?
 
A sensor in the exhaust, usually the blower housing, is for temperature. I've not known of any dryers that have a moisture sensor in that location, being that moisture sensors (in the drum) by design require contact with the clothes.

If there are any dryers with a true moisture sensor in the exhaust airflow, perhaps someone in-the-know can bring them to attention with details on the device via part diagrams and part numbers?
 
A sensor in the exhaust, usually the blower housing, is for temperature. I've not known of any dryers that have a moisture sensor in that location, being that moisture sensors (in the drum) by design require contact with the clothes.

If there are any dryers with a true moisture sensor in the exhaust airflow, perhaps someone in-the-know can bring them to attention with details on the device via part diagrams and part numbers?
Ok, then where is the auto dry sensor, as my Whirlpool has auto dry and no drum sensor?
 
Whirlpool uses a power dropping resistor to drop the voltage down to the timer, when the cycling thermostat opens or the high limit thermostat, it completes a circuit and sends power to the timer motor. A little more complicated to understand than a double throw switch thermostat which is a little more straightforward.
 
Personally, I find a thermostat to work just as well as a moisture sensor since it essentially provides the same results without any additional complexity.
 
Personally, I find a thermostat to work just as well as a moisture sensor since it essentially provides the same results without any additional complexity.


My favorite auto dry was the one used on Galaxy dryers. They took advantage of a 240 volt timer motor and made it work with two contacts like timed dry. I think more dryers should have gone this route:


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My SmartLoads are accurate and consistent at normal Dry level across a range of load-types. Jeans, blankets, shirts, towels/socks, sheets, mixed cargo shorts/briefs/some towels.

One of them (presumably either of them) moved to my mother's house, she must set it at Extra Dry to get her loads fully dry but they are and also consistently. There is one difference between here and there that is the only factor I can figure to account for the operational change. Anyone have a guess what is it?
Well one thing that springs to mind is the conductivity of your water compared to your mother's, based on hardness and other water chemistry. Some Miele dryers have a setting to allow for this. Miele says that soft water is less conductive and the dryer will leave clothes damper.

I know that your dryers are electric, so it could be that your voltage is 240 V and your mother's is 208 V or that hers is just generally lower. This would increase drying time but may have no effect on the dryness level, depending on the dryer's logic.

Am I thinking along the same lines as you or shall I try another guess?!
 
Ok, then where is the auto dry sensor, as my Whirlpool has auto dry and no drum sensor?
Thermostatic auto-dry operates the timer according to the heating profile, controlled by the drying temperature thermostat somewhere in the exhaust air path. The timer doesn't run when the heating element is on. The timer runs when the target temperature is reached and the heat cycles off.

Moisture-sensing auto-dry operates the timer according to the "hits" on the sensor bars in the drum, independently of the heating profile.

Perhaps this is the video that Chetlaham was attempting to link? The fellow makes a technical error when he says the thermo-switch is in the basket (drum) ... although it may be on the filter housing, which kinda is in the drum.
 
The video is Seans but it did not work when he originally liked it. You got it working.

Just want to say, the video is spot on and describes auto dry perfectly along with why it works so well regardless of the load size.

The beauty is that auto dry can be implemented even on the most simplest dryers with a two contact timer without extra components except a resistor in the case of a 120 volt timer motor.
 
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Thermostatic auto-dry operates the timer according to the heating profile, controlled by the drying temperature thermostat somewhere in the exhaust air path. The timer doesn't run when the heating element is on. The timer runs when the target temperature is reached and the heat cycles off.

Moisture-sensing auto-dry operates the timer according to the "hits" on the sensor bars in the drum, independently of the heating profile.

Perhaps this is the video that Chetlaham was attempting to link? The fellow makes a technical error when he says the thermo-switch is in the basket (drum) ... although it may be on the filter housing, which kinda is in the drum.

Thank's Sean! Yeah, I looked it up and it uses the plenum T-stat to regulate timer motion.
 
My SmartLoads are accurate and consistent at normal Dry level across a range of load-types. Jeans, blankets, shirts, towels/socks, sheets, mixed cargo shorts/briefs/some towels.

One of them (presumably either of them) moved to my mother's house, she must set it at Extra Dry to get her loads fully dry but they are and also consistently. There is one difference between here and there that is the only factor I can figure to account for the operational change. Anyone have a guess what is it?
That's what I miss about my ED56 - whatever setting you put it on, whether it be low temp/light dry or regular temp/med-extra dry, every last item you put in there, is perfectly dry at the end!

Its replacement doesn't do that - claims it has an auto dry sensor, but most clothes are still quite damp after that cycle...
 
The factor I'm considering for the operational difference is that mom's machines are in an outdoor room off the carport, external to the climate-controlled envelope of the house. It gets hot in the summer, cold in the winter season, no humidity control. A secondary factor perhaps is that mom typically sorts by how the items are used, not by fabric weight/type. "Wear" clothes are washed together .... jeans, slacks, shorts, knit/synthetic and lightweight cotton tops, lingerie ... which mixes disparate fabric weights. Bath towels may go with sheets.
 
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