If you've got the pics on hand, can you post the tech sheet to your machine?
I want to see what I can do to modify the cycle for warm rinse and other enhanced functions.
Most Unique Washer Control Panel
- Thread starter Chetlaham
- Start date
Help Support :
If you've got the pics on hand, can you post the tech sheet to your machine?
I want to see what I can do to modify the cycle for warm rinse and other enhanced functions.
phillymatt53
Well-known member
phillymatt53
Well-known member
I actually designed the simple 12 volt power supply in my head, to power the 12 volt heavy duty relay.
Things like that are something I can do easily, being burned into my brain from decades of working in electronics.
However, a stupidly simple alternative would be to just put a switch that would parallel the hot and cold valves.
But that would make the machine function as warm-warm when it triggers any "fill" or spray cycle.
You'd have to turn that switch off if you wanted a hot or cold initial wash, then turn it on for the rest of the cycle.
But I'll work on something when I get more time.
phillymatt53
Well-known member
This is what I did as far as modifications, drawn in Blue.
Mind you, the PS board, relay, etc is from my own design work.
All AC wiring is 18 gauge.
Normally open 12V Relay is rated for 15 amps (heavy duty) far more than needed for the valves.
And this machine may not be comparable with other versions/modelswith different controls.
You're mileage may vary.
Here is how I imagine that tech sheet:
Let me know if there is any particular cycle sequence you'd like to see or anything you'd change. Everything is the same for the 120 volt version except the motor run capacitor is around 100-125uF.
Timer decal has the fills 2 minutes in from the start of fill & soak so 6 minutes of allocated fill time.
phillymatt53
Well-known member
Well Chet, unfortunately, those schematics are complicated by the timer mechanism.
As much experience in electronics as I have, I'm not comfortable with washing machine diagrams, it's far different than, say, troubleshooting a stereo amplifier or receiver, or even a tv set.
The switch numbers are binary, either open or closed. Red is closed, white is open.
But I don't blame you. The schematic is very simple compared to what is common for washing machines. For example, the 1994 Kenmore thread:
Lots and lots of complexity above, and there are machines even more complex than this. People often get taken aback by some of the concepts I've proposed however they are very, very simple in nature and intended to last wile being joyfully easy to trouble shoot. Contrary to what people believe it takes a very small amount of switches, contacts and electrical components to achieve a great cycle.
Low end dependable care Maytags are a traffic example of this. They usually achieved wash, rinse and spin with the bare minimum.
Question- do you like deep rinses or spray rinses for the rinse cycle?
pierreandreply4
Well-known member
@Chetlaham if you wanted to convert this belt drive kenmore into a direct drive waher what would you change
phillymatt53
Well-known member
Both, Chet.
And I've found that doing 3 loads over the last few days with the "warm rinse" on, that my clothes come out with less issues than before.
The spray rinse has more "force" to pre-rinse the soap out, and the Downey softener dissolves better in the final deep "warm rinse".
Warm rinse relaxes fabrics rinsing out detergent better while dissolving fabric softner better.
Warm rinse should be used on all cycles except where wrinkling or very bright colors are involved.
pierreandreply4
Well-known member
will checkDo you have larger pics of the control panel? I can't read it. Sorry.
pierreandreply4
Well-known member
sadly do not have any bigger pics
sadly do not have any bigger pics
Is it like Pat's Washer?
https://automaticwasher.org/threads/1974-kenmore-70-series-washer.99214/#post-1238615
phillymatt53
Well-known member
I would think that the dryer would fluff things up enough to prevent wrinkles, as long as they're taken out promptly.
Here is another unique control panel in my book-
pierreandreply4
Well-known member
yes sometime its hard to have good pics when you search using google
pierreandreply4
Well-known member
i wish my curent washer daily driver had a warm rinse i wouild use it alot spray rinse deep rinse you may find it strange but this would be a dream set to own
To be honest I feel the same way. Unless you're hang drying, the Permanent Press Cycle is redundant.
Pierre, not strange at all. Warm rinse wash the norm before energy regulations and destination science made the claim that cold rinsing was just as effective as warm rinsing.
Truth be that depends. In some parts of the country water is near freezing during the winter. Cold water contracts fabrics making it difficult to pull detergent out.
Truth be that depends. In some parts of the country water is near freezing during the winter. Cold water contracts fabrics making it difficult to pull detergent out.
Warm rinse as the norm was primarily related to use of soaps. It became less of a necessity with detergents.
And yet detergent manufacturers and laundry pundits tout washing in cold water so apparently it doesn't block detergent from getting in to fabric fibers? I recently missed a red/purple stain on a shirt. Or maybe it was a fresh stain. Dunno. Dabbed it with a stain remover product, left it for a couple days (the product dried-in). Scrubbed/rinsed it with a wet toothbrush, the stain lightened considerably but not fully removed. Mostly to see what'd happen, I left it at a bathroom sink for hours (may have been overnight) with only the stained area submerged in cold water with a bit of liquid detergent (Persil) added. Gone.
That is not to say I plan on switching to cold washing!
And yet detergent manufacturers and laundry pundits tout washing in cold water so apparently it doesn't block detergent from getting in to fabric fibers? I recently missed a red/purple stain on a shirt. Or maybe it was a fresh stain. Dunno. Dabbed it with a stain remover product, left it for a couple days (the product dried-in). Scrubbed/rinsed it with a wet toothbrush, the stain lightened considerably but not fully removed. Mostly to see what'd happen, I left it at a bathroom sink for hours (may have been overnight) with only the stained area submerged in cold water with a bit of liquid detergent (Persil) added. Gone.
That is not to say I plan on switching to cold washing!
phillymatt53
Well-known member
Back in the 1970s, I made a ghost costume for Halloween out of a white bedsheet.
It had glowing "eyes" with a 9volt battery that I could make blink with a switch in one arm.
I headed to a local bar and got Honorable Mention by the staff, who gave me free drinks!
Got drunk on red wine, and of course spilled some on the costume.
Mom told me to pour some whole milk on the stains, let it sit a while, then wash it.
Voila!.... that milk worked! - stain completely gone!
Apparently, the enzymes in milk are the secret.
It had glowing "eyes" with a 9volt battery that I could make blink with a switch in one arm.
I headed to a local bar and got Honorable Mention by the staff, who gave me free drinks!
Got drunk on red wine, and of course spilled some on the costume.
Mom told me to pour some whole milk on the stains, let it sit a while, then wash it.
Voila!.... that milk worked! - stain completely gone!
Apparently, the enzymes in milk are the secret.
Of course, however I feel there are other very relevant reasons to warm rinsing.
Well, define cold. Cold can be 75*F or 32*F. I don't dispute modern detergent having the ability to function in 72*F water however I'd like to see some concrete evidence based results when dealing with anything below that. More often than not you can tell when anyone chronically washes in cold water because the machine is absolute gunk on the the other side of the wash basket and outter tub. Cold water washing is what does machines in I feel because most of the time the incoming temperature is just to cold.
In my opinion, the optimum cold is ATC controlled where the machine cycles the hot and cold valves to obtain 70*C.
Personally I feel the most energy efficient top load would be one with a warm wash warm rinse done with a 70/30 mixing valve. 70/30 assures reasonably warm water for cleaning while saving energy in not letting the water become to warm. IE the cleaning difference between 100*F and 70*F is minimally reduced, but IMHO dips greatly below 65*F.
Similar threads
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
CU's Very First Dishwasher Issue - 1952
- Latest: phillymatt53
