Sears Kenmore Belt-drive Transmission Rebuild

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jons1077

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Today I started to tackle my first belt-drive transmission rebuild. This is the transmission that came out of the ‘75 Lady Kenmore I got a few years ago. I had to swap out the gearcase because it was not fully engaging into agitation. I assumed it was a weak spring but turns out that wasn’t the case. I purchased new agitator shaft and discovered the issue. Somehow the rod that fits into the drive gear had rotated out of position and could not fully engage. Still good to replace the spring anyways. Got it all cleaned up. One little part stumps me though. A small dime-sized metal disc fell out of somewhere and I can’t tell where it’s supposed to go. It looks like it might be a spacer or some kind of bearing?

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Ironically, I happened to rebuild the transmission out of my ‘63 Whirlpool back around this time 2 years ago. Surprisingly, it was the first transmission rebuild I ever did and was quite easy. There’s another Whirlpool transmission I plan on rebuilding but plan on packing that one with corn head grease for experimental purposes.
 
All back together

Did a little more scraping around the edges with a razor blade to make sure all the old gasket was removed and a smooth surface left for the new one. 16 ounces of 90w GL-1 gear oil goes in. I smeared oil on the gasket as well to help seal the deal. Minor spillage but that’s not surprising. Should be ready for service now!

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Wow what great job Jon! I'd be interested to hear if there is any comparison on these WP transmissions between that 90W gear oil that Ben discovered in his recent thread vs the 60W that WP sells. The WP oil was ridiculously expensive if I remember correctly so this is a great alternative.

I remember when I disassembled the transmission on my belt drive to replace the spring many years ago. Getting the transmission back together was pretty straightforward but I had an awful time getting that agitate cam bar back into place. If I remember correctly, the whole thing almost went flying several times until I figured out a workaround using a bungee cord spring and enlisting a helper. I guess I'm older and wiser now so maybe it was just inexperience at the time for me but hope it goes smooth for you!

Once again great job and thanks for sharing
 
Old agitator shaft and the agitate cam bar

Hi John and James,

If there is an easy trick to putting the agitate cam bar back into its slot, I don’t know what it is, but my work around was to get the gearcase done to the point of John’s last photo, then take it and a couple others over to my Dad. Together I would put my feet on either side of the gearcase to hold it down, while I pulled up on the new shaft. This pulls up the gear fork shaft enough to let someone else (my dad) to insert the cam bar. Not a fun procedure for sure but probably amusing for a third party to watch. Just be sure to lubricate the cam bar and it’s channels before starting.

About the old agitator shaft, are the splines rusted at all? If not it can be reused like a brand new one for 1978 and newer applications with the shorter center post.

I enjoyed reading this post John, thanks!

Gordon
 
Today I started to tackle my first belt-drive transmission rebuild. This is the transmission that came out of the ‘75 Lady Kenmore I got a few years ago. I had to swap out the gearcase because it was not fully engaging into agitation. I assumed it was a weak spring but turns out that wasn’t the case. I purchased new agitator shaft and discovered the issue. Somehow the rod that fits into the drive gear had rotated out of position and could not fully engage. Still good to replace the spring anyways. Got it all cleaned up. One little part stumps me though. A small dime-sized metal disc fell out of somewhere and I can’t tell where it’s supposed to go. It looks like it might be a spacer or some kind of bearing?

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Do you know where I could get a spring & seal for my transmission?
Today I started to tackle my first belt-drive transmission rebuild. This is the transmission that came out of the ‘75 Lady Kenmore I got a few years ago. I had to swap out the gearcase because it was not fully engaging into agitation. I assumed it was a weak spring but turns out that wasn’t the case. I purchased new agitator shaft and discovered the issue. Somehow the rod that fits into the drive gear had rotated out of position and could not fully engage. Still good to replace the spring anyways. Got it all cleaned up. One little part stumps me though. A small dime-sized metal disc fell out of somewhere and I can’t tell where it’s supposed to go. It looks like it might be a spacer or some kind of bearing?

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Would you know where I could get that drive agaitator seal & spring.My spring is broke and the seal is questionable.I know this is an older post any leads would be great.. thanks ..Glenn
 
Hello, the spring is whirlpool part number 16015. Plenty of them on eBay. I would need to look up the seal part number.

Gordon
Hello Gordon I just found the kit for it on E-Bay with the upper and lower seal & spring P/N 285672. Yeah my spring was broke in three places and wouldnt spin would lock up everything worked but the spin cycle would turn a few turns and lock up.I think it was stuck partially down in agitate mode and also trying to spin in spin cycle because of that shortened broken spring not disengaging correctly. At least Im hoping my theory is right will see.Thanks for responding and the P/N Ill write it in my book Oh is your machine still going??? Glenn
 
My dad used to fill these with red Dexron ATF fluid.
Yes I heard that or 50-60 motor oil. Probably anything would do but that expensive Whirlpool oil is priced ridiculous like everything else with a brand name on the bottle.Just cant be too thick would work would be my guess....
 
I think it was red oil. Is there a red gear oil? My dad was a Sears servicer so I can't imagine he threw caution to the wind. Maybe I confused red Ricon grease for the spin tube bearings with the gear oil. there was usually an opened up trans. rebuild mounted on his garage workbench. Seems thats when I saw the red oil in them.
 
Would you know the
Thank you!

That was my hunch but I wanted to be sure before I dropped it down there!
Would you have a P/N for the small spring I misplaced mine and been having trouble getting a P/N for it.Is it the same wire thickness ass the main spring just shorter in length by two coils looks to be,... GP
 
Well I got the seal and spring but misplaced my smaller spring Im annoyed on the fork assembly.Would you know a P/N cant find anything.I know the older transmissions didnt use them at all as I think it was an upgade. Looks to be the same wire thickness .105 but two coils shorter then the main agitator spring. Anyhelp would be appreciated ...Glenn
 
The spring PN for the fork is 16015, still readily available and all over eBay.

Fun fact - that PN is the original PN for that particular spring, going back to the first belt drive transmission in 1947. It is one of the very few items starting with 16xxx that remained through the last of the belt drives in the late 80's.

There was a brief period from 1959 thru 1964 where Whirlpool omitted the 16015 fork spring, in favor of the new agitator shaft seal spring, 92815, and a revised fork that no longer interfaced with the lower section of the gear case. The new agitator shaft spring was intended to replace the tension applied to the fork AND hold the the gear securely against agitator pin. Thankfully Whirlpool went back to the full length fork and added back the original 16015 fork spring paired with the new agitator shaft seal/spring assembly with the heavy duty gear case revisions in '64.

Ben
 
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You need 80 to 90W gear oil, that’s what I put in mine when I rebuilt the transmission back in the spring of 2021. Has been holding up so far.

Have another Whirlpool transmission I plan on rebuilding at some point, however I am going to experiment with putting corn head grease in than one since corn head grease turns into a heavy gear oil when mixed around, turns into a grease once it settles.
 
The spring PN for the fork is 16015, still readily available and all over eBay.

Fun fact - that PN is the original PN for that particular spring, going back to the first belt drive transmission in 1947. It is one of the very few items starting with 16xxx that remained through the last of the belt drives in the late 80's.

There was a brief period from 1959 thru 1964 where Whirlpool omitted the 16015 spring, in favor of the agitator shaft seal spring, 92815, and a revised fork that no longer interfaced with the lower section of the gear case. The updated agitator shaft spring was intended to replace the tension needed to hold the gear securely in place, but thankfully Whirlpool went back to the full length fork and the original 16015 spring paired with the new agitator shaft seal/spring assembly with the heavy duty gear case revisions in '64.

Ben
Ben,your saying the fork spring is the same as the main spring which is P/N 16015 also. In the pictures here of this post it looks to be smaller then the main spring with the seal. When I took mine apart initially I remembered the fork not the driveshaft spring was shorter by an inch or so......
 
Not quite. The springs are not the same. 16015 is a smaller spring, both in diameter and height. The 92815 spring is much taller and stronger than the 16015 spring. A photo calling out both, as installed in the transmission, may help.

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I think I finally got this understood now P/N 16015 is the smaller spring on the clutch fork. Now I bought the kit 285672 actually two sets a spare with the seal and spring thinking that spring by itself was the 16015 P/N. Now it makes more sense what a pain... That thransmission will work without the clutch fork spring as it was an upgrade I think in the late 1960S early 70S...Anyhoo thanks for the clarification and picture!
Would you have a P/N for the small spring I misplaced mine and been having trouble getting a P/N for it.Is it the same wire thickness ass the main spring just shorter in length by two coils looks to be,... GP
 
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The spring PN for the fork is 16015, still readily available and all over eBay.

Fun fact - that PN is the original PN for that particular spring, going back to the first belt drive transmission in 1947. It is one of the very few items starting with 16xxx that remained through the last of the belt drives in the late 80's.

There was a brief period from 1959 thru 1964 where Whirlpool omitted the 16015 fork spring, in favor of the new agitator shaft seal spring, 92815, and a revised fork that no longer interfaced with the lower section of the gear case. The new agitator shaft spring was intended to replace the tension applied to the fork AND hold the the gear securely against agitator pin. Thankfully Whirlpool went back to the full length fork and added back the original 16015 fork spring paired with the new agitator shaft seal/spring assembly with the heavy duty gear case revisions in '64.

Ben
Yeah I kinda figured the two springs were some sort of engineering upgrade or something .Would you know if you can assemble the forked clutch shaft thru underside of the top case cover and install the fork plunger shaft & spring then install the actuator bar.Then lower the whole assembly after inserting & mating it with the driveshaft down in the lower case to prevent raising of the plunger to install the actuator bar from atop.Im new at washer machines but very skilled at outboard L/units which use a fork and clutchdog design which was derived from washer machine transmissions so I read.......
 
Yeah I kinda figured the two springs were some sort of engineering upgrade or something .Would you know if you can assemble the forked clutch shaft thru underside of the top case cover and install the fork plunger shaft & spring then install the actuator bar.Then lower the whole assembly after inserting & mating it with the driveshaft down in the lower case to prevent raising of the plunger to install the actuator bar from atop.Im new at washer machines but very skilled at outboard L/units which use a fork and clutchdog design which was derived from washer machine transmissions so I read.......
Anyone know why there are no used geared vintage transmissions like this one or internal used parts on EBay for these tanks ,,maybe there just that good,LOL!
 
Anyone know why there are no used geared vintage transmissions like this one or internal used parts on EBay for these tanks ,,maybe there just that good,LOL!
Virtually no one takes the time to tear these apart and sell them piece by piece unless it's a side job or hobby. Damn shame, really.
 
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