Search results

There's some good info on the conversion in this thread: https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?42684 You might be surprised how well it works. I ran my DE806 on 120V for a year and a half or so - I initially only wired it up like that so I could test it out in the...

>> plus the usual tub bearing/stem seal replacement and other items That's why I mentioned that the easiest way out would be to pick up a donor machine, and skip separating the tubs or removing the transmission from the tubs at all - transplant the whole thing as a unit. No pulling the...

It shouldn't cost anywhere near $1k to repair a transmission, by the way. You could make it real cheap if you found a parts donor and just did a transmission/tub transplant as one unit. But even rebuilding yours shouldn't cost THAT much.

Yeah, don't be too hard on yourself over it. It's still less than the cost of a service call from an appliance repair shop, and a heck of a lot cheaper than a replacement machine!

>>Hi Matt, your 3rd picture in your reply #4 is likely the problem Luckily the backside blew out instead of the front, so we can still read the part number. Looks like the C103B, a 200V SCR, this particular one manufactured by GE. They are obsolete, but some replacements are still available...

One of Eugene's rebuilt transmissions popped up in my eBay feed. Glad to see that you're up and running refurbishing and selling these.

Welcome to the forum, Matt. It looks like you've done a significant amount of research and diagnosis already - far more than most who come here for help - so kudos for that. Is it correct to say that, absent the solenoid working, you've been shutting off the dryer by opening the door? The...

That makes sense I would think. Even in the “Maytag” Maytag days, I think they were working hard to reduce the number of separate parts that dealers and repair shops stocked?

I'm not quite sure that insulating the burner tube is a good choice? Most header and exhaust wraps are heat cured, and will smoke (and smell awful) for a fair amount of time while this happens. And by insulating the burner tube, internal temperatures will rise, perhaps higher than the...

Thomas, did you see this post from Tom? >> I don't believe this forum is private for members only. >> I was able to view it without being logged in. I can confirm that this thread is world-visible without being logged in. It has also been indexed already, so people will find their way here...

With everything packed in tight, what's the plan for cleaning the dryer duct? If the opposite side of the wall is accessible (garage?), could you install an access door, so that the dryer vent could be disconnected and cleaned without having to pull the units out?

And there we go. That's why I say not to jump to conclusions and go on the parts buying spree until a diagnosis has been made. If you're restoring something special, intending to keep it for 20 years, that's one thing. But so many people go way overboard, and in the process of "cleaning...

>> I know it needs a new motor, pump, belts, and tub ring seal and clamp You might not need even half of your list. What are the symptoms of the machine?

>> and blue tub (yes... an XL capacity blue tub... unusual) Several other models would have had the same size blue tub - A308, for example. My understanding is that through the 06/07/08/10/12 models, Maytag only ever made the same two tub sizes - they just changed (inflated) the naming of them...

Would it be easier to just pull the whole tub/transmission/brace/damper out of the A412 as an assembly, and swap it into your A806 that way? Then you wouldn't have to mess with the motor, pump, or any of the wiring. Just the brake assembly, three springs, popping out the fill hose, and the...

>> Most built in stuff is F or E. >> Even the most efficient fridge freezers are C rated. >> My A+++ fridge is actually D rated now... Wow... In the big picture, this is a good thing. What good is the rating system to consumers, if everything gets an A? As efficiencies continue improving, do...

The photo in the post a few up seems to show the sleeve removed, but are there two different transmissions being intermixed here? Are transmission parts being combined from the two machines? As long as it's in good shape, and of a good dimensional match for the new outer piece, I'm not sure...

>> Base plate should be okay after sandblasting unless badly pitted. I'd bet money it will be fine too. The base on my "free" A408 was in far worse shape, and after 2 1/2 years of use as our primary washer, it has still held together! For a machine like this, I think I'd take originality...

(Link to the prior thread for anyone finding this in the future: https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?86876) Looks like the pump is still the multi-part serviceable type as well. Is there any evidence that the timer was replaced? (Could the Kingston timer be original?)

For $25 it's a no-brainer! That's scrap parts price, for a desirable machine in working condition. The lint filter is a bit odd, but not terrible. The drum light and lighted console are great. And the electronic dry control, though it does lack flexibility, always seems to do a good job...