Maytag DG606 Prematurely shuts down despite incomplete drying

[wmjpate]

I need help for my 1974 Maytag DG606 gas dryer which prematurely stops with a chime despite the content being still wet. The vent is clear and I serviced the unit a year ago with new belts, cleaning and oil and greasing. I really just want to fix it .... not replace it. Help!

 

[maytagbear]

I can think of

two possibilities...... The sensor might need to be scrubbed with a lightly damp terrycloth, or the grounding may have gone wonky.

Our DG502 had the sensors in the vanes, my Dependable Care's sensor was underneath the door opening.

Lawrence/Maytagbear

 

[wmjpate]

I need Additional information to identify the issue

I'm not sure what component you are speaking of, So I'm attaching the original Schematic from the back of the DG606 and a viewable url .... kinda, parts list. Maybe from it you can see where the component resides in the unit. Then, can you identify which item is the one you are speaking of? I really was thinking it was likely a series of temp sensors, like one of the ones I am also sending a pic of. Thank you for your quick response.

Bill

https://www.partswarehouse.com/Maytag-DG606-Dryer-s/98937.htm

 

[wmjpate]

I need Additional information to identify the issue

I'm not sure what component you are speaking of, So I'm attaching the original Schematic from the back of the DG606 and a viewable url .... kinda, parts list. Maybe from it you can see where the component resides in the unit. Then, can you identify which item is the one you are speaking of? I really was thinking it was likely a series of temp sensors, like one of the ones I am also sending a pic of. The unit will run for approximately 10 to 25 min max. Thank you for your quick response.

Bill

https://www.partswarehouse.com/Maytag-DG606-Dryer-s/98937.htm

 

[maytag85]

I have a Maytag DG606 I converted to a DG306 since I didn’t feel like going through the trouble to diagnose the problem and literally was my only functioning dryer at the time in 2019 and has been working great since I put a 306 timer in.

I suspect the constant burning pilot light could be playing a role in not allowing it to shut off since it has corroded most of the wiring inside and I would also look at the wiring while you have it all apart.

 

[wmjpate]

The unit shuts down prematurely

I don't know how the standing flame would be involved. The burner extinguishes when the unit prematurely shuts down. Your idea of replacing the timer is plausible as it has a funky behavior and really doesn't appear to control the temp. Pushed, it simply starts the unit up. The dial doesn't seem to function as designed. See image below. I have know other idea what would be triggering the premature shutdown and I cannot find any moisture sensor or such that might be the culprit as the gentleman with the DG502 indicated.

 

[maranoman]

Troubleshooting

Your DG606 likely has two metal bars on each of its drum baffles. Those are the moisture sensors being mentioned. I have attached a couple of pages from the service manual for the Halo of Heat dryers. I'm assuming that your dryer is heating but just shutting down prematurely (let us know if your gas valve is not creating a flame at all during the drying process.)  If my assumption is correct, then there is likely a problem in the electronic sensing circuit which could be caused by an open baffle circuit or improper grounding. You will need to get a multimeter and check for continuity from one of the baffle sensors, through the slip ring and brush and back to the electronic control board (see Dryer Shuts Off Too Soon With Load section on page 2 below.)  It could also be that one of the wire connections to the control board has broken off  due to corrosion caused by the ever-present pilot light. If that is the case, it will need to be re-soldered.

 

[DADoES]

 
Your dryer does not have a timer in the traditional sense.  It's controlled by a moisture sensor system.  The metal bars/strips in the tumble baffles are the sensors.  Damp clothes touching across the bars completes a low-voltage electric circuit that registers a moisture hit to the control and keeps the drying cycle running.  The knob is a circuit selector for the electronic control, that's why it doesn't turn during the drying cycle or have an Off position.

Damp Dry runs for a lower dryness level.

Heavy/Permanent Press continues to run after the hits ease-off until a higher target temperature is reached (I think that's the difference vs. Regular) via a separate thermostat, to iron-out wrinkles ... and thus is also appropriate for heavy items such as jeans.

Tumble continues without heat after drying is complete until a cool-down thermostat shuts off the motor circuit and rings the bell.

Air Fluff does run without heat for a fixed time, possibly 10 mins.

 

[wmjpate]

WOW! Thank you all!!! GREAT INSIGHT AND FEEDBACK!!!!

WOW, THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH, especially Maranoman and DADoES, for your detailed information and how the system works. Very clever those engineers. I Had no idea this was called the "Halo of heat" dryer. In response to Maranoman's question, the burner unit works as engineered and I actually have replaced the Burner Tube - Part # 1245820 Mfg Part # Y302544 about 7 years ago.

We have owned it since 1978 when we purchased from a neighbor who was selling her home to move into my mother-in-laws apartment building about 50 yards away. She took our apartment and us her dryer and washer. Now I Regret getting rid of the matching washer. LOVED it's lint catcher and function! Haven't seen one as effective since.

Anyway I have some vocabulary questions. Tumbler baffles? Those are the components within the drum that tumbles the content, correct? So I need to open the unit up, and investigate the continuity of the circuits found as part of the construct of the baffles. Am I getting this right? AGAIN great feedback and detail.

Bill
PS, will keep you advised how it goes.

 

[maranoman]

Pictures of Components

I’ve included some pictures of some of the components mentioned in the service manual in my previous post.

Pic 1: Electronic control
Pic 2: Baffle with metal moisture sensors
Pic 3: Selector switch
Pic 4: Brush enclosure
Pic 5: Zoomed out shot showing brush enclosure on slip ring

Other things to check - make sure all of the wire connections to the electronic control (pic 1) are intact and not broken. They are very thin connections and prone to corrosion and breakage. If any of them are broken, they will need to be soldered directly to the board. Be careful with the brush enclosure. If you remove it for any reason, be aware that inside of it is a small spring-loaded brush that rides along the slip ring as the drum rotates. Be careful removing it as the spring and brush will fly out never to be seen again if you’re not careful. Also search this forum for Halo of Heat, HOH, DG606, premature shut down, etc. and you will see that you’re not alone with your Maytag HOH electronic control drying issue.

 

[wmjpate]

Advice for R&R'ing the Cabinet?

Any "tips" for R&R'ing the cabinet shell, control panel and top surface from the tumbler and base? I have R&R'ed the rear panel to gain access to cleaning, lubing and replacing the belts on the unit but never needed to proceed beyond that. Obviously I can figure it out on my own but advice is accepted from this end. Thank you all again.

Bill

 

[maranoman]

Removing Cabinet

You will need to remove the wires from the motor, the thermostats, and the yellow wire connected to the slip ring.  Take pictures of the wiring first so you get it all back together correctly. Then remove the screws connecting the bottom of the cabinet sides to the base. Then you should be able to lift the cabinet and top cover up and over the blower housing and away from the base/tumbler. 

 

[wmjpate]

Again, great advice. I'm guessing you've done this a few times in the past.

Bill

 

[maranoman]

Too Many HOHs..

I have a little bit of practice working on my current fleet of HOH dryers. I need to shrink down the collection soon.

 

[maytag85]

The HOH dryers I’ve worked on and serviced are my Maytag DE306 and a Maytag DG606 that I converted to a DG306 since the electronic dry control was being screwy and wasn’t shutting off at all and has worked fine ever since I converted it to a 306 dryer.

Even if my Maytag DG306 has been working great with no issues I’ll have to disassemble it soon to grease or oil the main drum bearing along with fan and tensioner shaft to have a quiet dryer in operation.

 

[repairguy]

Reply #13

I too know about too many halo of heat Maytags. I have something like 20 or so altogether. Not sure why I like them so much as their capacity is minuscule but I guess it is the mechanical design and their silent operation.

 

[wmjpate]

What do you guys do with a stable of dryers???

I get it if you owned a laundromat but without timers and a coin box that wouldn't be too practical. Or do you have motels, service camps washing and drying kids clothing or is it strictly a love for such units?
Bill

 

[repairguy]

Mine is strictly a love of old appliances. And yes they consume a massive space.

 

[wmjpate]

Is the HOH model brush assembly that rides on the drum avail

As identified in the topic, is there any availability for finding the brush and brush assembly for my HOH dryer? Just take a look at the image and you'll understand clearly the problem. This appears to be why the unit has been operating erratically. Any help in this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Bill

 

[d-jones]

These are the parts that make up that assembly.

 

311538 - carbon brush holder

311539 - carbon brush spring

311540 - carbon brush cover

311542 - carbon brush

 

Your carbon brush cover is likely still fine (it's the copper bit you see there), but everything else will need to be replaced. The brush holder can be found at the link below, which is great since it's the only part you would have a hard time making. I have no source for the spring or the little brush, but those can be fabricated without too much trouble. The parts assemble as shown in this drawing.

https://www.a-1appliance.com/lookup/50901/286473#

 

[wmjpate]

Thanks For the info

I actually had found that detail but not the physical carbon brush holder which is all I really need. Found the brush and spring in the bottom pan as I began the cleanup process. You guys are a great source for finding unique items. I was actually going to try to modify the below brush and assembly if the brush was spaced 3/8" from the anchor point as is the original holder. Was waiting to hear from the vendor to determine the dimensions to see if it might work.

Thank you so much.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353524109629?hash=item524fadd13d:g:haIAAOSwcVtbUZPH

 

[wmjpate]

Ugh, I now need a new burner tube

I now need a new Burner Tube - Part # 1245820 Mfg Part # Y302544
3-2544 as the baffles at the discharge end have deteriorated and are mostly gone. Oh well. Didn't expect this having replaced it about 10 years ago.

 

[d-jones]

Two of those burners are currently listed on eBay. It’s great that you were able to find the spring and brush. It certainly simplifies things for you.

 

[washdaddy]

member's collection photo's

If you get the chance you should check out the member's photos of their collections. You would be surprised at some of the collections they have. Several members have converted entire basements to oversized laundry rooms because of their love of vintage W/D's and other appliances as well.

This group of people are extremely helpful and willing to assist with problems and situations concerning those wonderful machines.

BTW welcome to the club. You've come across a great group of people from all over the world

 

[jons1077]

Maranoman

Nice collection! I’d love to grab a goldenrod DE806 to match my 1970 806 washer if you ever decide to part with one.

 

[wmjpate]

Thank you so much for the parts links. Some progress images.

I really appreciated a tip to look at e-bay, D-Jones. That's my typical first place to look but after the recommendation to follow your link to A-1 appliance to find the brush holder I didn't continue back to e-bay where I had been searching. I owe you a beer, as I snagged one last night for $25. I actually think they would have taken less. In hindsight I may go back and get a spare..... that assumes I get the unit running as desired.

I'm not going to pretty this unit up too much but am treating the rust with and replacing parts that need attention. Im hitting the rust with Locktite rust neutralizer after removing as much of the surface rust as possible. I'm painting sparingly as I want to make it a functional unit once again!

Bill

 

[wmjpate]

HOH Gas Control unit Orifice size? Bizzare Thermocouple ?

I had previously asked about increasing the orifice size of the gas control unit. Interestingly as I began investigating this issue I discovered the orifice was blocked significantly, maybe 50% or more. I first cleaned it using my fingers to rotate the bit, a 5/64 bit which offered resistance but not much. With this I tried a 3/32 bit which too seemed to easily move the accumulation from the orifice fairly easily. When I tried the 7/64 bit, I found resistance and didn't proceed further. Does anyone know the technical orifice size for this HOH unit? I'm happy I at least investigated this but as usual it brings more questions.

Also I guess in 50 years I've never had to address a bad thermocouple on this unit because I was fully shocked to see the bizarre unit design being used. Certainly not anything that would be considered "standard". Can anyone fill me in about this unit and it's availability or any retrofit capability to use a more traditional design?
You guys got the answers, and I've got the questions.
Thank you,
Bill

 

[maytag85]

I actually plan on doing something similar to my Maytag DG306 sometime soon and plan on painting the heck out of the base, rear panel, and many other parts so it won’t rust anymore. Even considering painting the entire inside of the cabinet with POR15 to rust proof it even more and plan on putting a coat of grey paint over that as well. Might be overkill but it’s worth it if it prevents it from rusting any further.

 

[wmjpate]

insulated burner tube retrofit & burner orifice size?

As it was explained to me that the HOH DG606 had its gas burner governored down to only allow 18,500 BTUs. I retrofit the burner tube and the dr um insulator with specialized Titanium Fiberglass Thermo Header Wrap Insulation that is designed to withstand 1,800 degrees of continuous heat exposure. I did see evidence of the felt being damaged which I fixed and then applied this material over the top of the felt.

I'm still looking for anyone who can give me an answer as to what the orifice size is on the original production gas control unit. Ultimately I'd like to bore it to provide 25,000 BTUs. As it stands It appears that the original diameter may be 3/32 after cleaning it out. As always, thank you. Bill

 

[lowefficiency]

I'm not quite sure that insulating the burner tube is a good choice?

Most header and exhaust wraps are heat cured, and will smoke (and smell awful) for a fair amount of time while this happens. And by insulating the burner tube, internal temperatures will rise, perhaps higher than the designers intended for the air, the burner tube itself, and the felt seals. Having loose fiberglass fibers in the intake air path could be problematic as well.