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Could be a bad timer, timer contacts reverse polarity of power to the motor start winding between agitate/drain-spin to reverse direction of the motor. Need your washer model number to better help you out though. Eric

"that is too bad....They always used to have one very basic, but very solid model....I guess Kenmore is now Kenless ;)" Whirlpool stopped making the direct drive design three years ago except for commercial units and washer/dryer combo's. Now they have the belt drive piece of junk that is...

Yep, didn't notice that temp select was part of the timer. That is a bare bones washer. How nice. Just leave that connector disconnected if you don't want your washer deciding how hot your hot water will be. Eric

I believe I am correct on that. After searching around with the part number for that valve, I see it listed on some sites as "Bi-Metal water inlet valve". Eric

Some Whirlpool models, rather than use an ATC board, use a bi-metal switch in the water inlet valve that will close and turn on the cold water valve if the incoming water exceeds a certain temperature. Some of them have one switch, others use two but they are wired into the temperature select...

The gearcase must be in spin mode in order for the agitator shaft to freely rotate. In agitate mode, the agitate gear is engaged and you are trying to rotate against a 9.58 to 1 gear ratio that is a worm gear arrangement. Nearly impossible to do. You may have to rotate the input shaft up to...

"will we be back to where it all started, yes I dare say it, the scrubbing board??"

It's really sad that companys are putting out such crap. The new (3 years) Whirlpool VMW top load design which is everywhere being sold under various brand names and model numbers is a total piece of crap. The control board being one of the many failure items. Prices have recently increased on...

Not really. One trick you can try is to rotate the pulley CCW about 1/4 turn and hold it there while using a large flat blade screwdriver to go between the spokes of the pulley and between the lip at the brake rotor and stator and give it a twist to try and free the brake rotor. Eric

Yeah, could be the splines on the brake rotor are stuck to the splines on the transmission and won't release or the thrust bearing/cams are dirty or combination of both. Eric

If you can continuously rotate the drive pulley CCW and the agitator agitates, the transmission is bad. Eric

"I have a relative with a 2003 TOL Kenmore DD that agitates at almost double the speed on "Fast" compared to this KA" Actually, it's 1.5 times as fast. The KA in the video is going at 120spm which is low speed (middle speed) on the 3-speed motor. Whirlpool/KN with 3-speed motors will run the...

You can see it in the link I provided. It's the spirally wound spring under the input pinion gear. The drawing however, isn't clear on how it is coupled between the input shaft and the pinion gear. That's what I'm trying to figure out. Just for curiosity. I just like to know how these things...

Thanks for the photo's norgechef. What I'm looking for, is whats under the input pinion gear. The clutch spring and how it transfers rotational force from the input shaft to the pinion. Eric

Sounds just like my 02 GE top loader. Always been like that even after replacing the transmission last year due to lower bearing going bad. Eric

Can you provide photo's of the HS and bottom inside of the transmission housing showing how it works? How does the input shaft get coupled to the pinion gear through this clutch spring? I found one of the patents for the transmission that shows the spring and explains the function of the pinion...

The gears are made of Celcon Acetal Copolymer. Nylon is not a good choice for precision gears due to moisture absorption which causes the gears to swell. Celcon is also used in Whirlpools new belt drive transmission and splutch assembly. When Maytag was designing their transmission, the criteria...

I believe it's the fingers on the input pinion gear that break. If the clutch spring breaks, what is driving the pinion? This does seem to be a relatively common failure on these transmissions. I have read where someone epoxied the fingers back together and it worked but I doubt it would last...

Anyone ever dismantle one of these transmissions? I am curious as to how the clutch spring operates on the input pinion gear. This is an LGS type similar to the one used on the bottom of GE transmissions. It grips in one direction but not the other, so I can see how it works in the agitate...