westyslantfront
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2004
- Messages
- 1,718
hi austin.....congratulations and good luck with the machine.....i know it will be great fun to watch......ross
1953 Maytag 101P AMP!!
- Thread starter westytoploader
- Start date
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christfr
Well-known member
FANTASTIC
HOW WONDERFUL.. know you will live it.. i have a 54 and wish i had a red agi like yours..so from mine to yours happy washing!!!!!
HOW WONDERFUL.. know you will live it.. i have a 54 and wish i had a red agi like yours..so from mine to yours happy washing!!!!!
I just noticed the drive-shaft in panel #113554 is a *lo-mount* as expected in a MT.
May I ask for a pic of the underside of the agitator?
May I ask for a pic of the underside of the agitator?
This is a real gem among Maytags, Austin. I have the brochure for this model - "The Supermatic" it's called. Red agitator and all, a very nice find indeed!
Designgeek
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2004
- Messages
- 865
That's quite a find there!
Okay, dumb questions dep't: I think I see the water temp control doesn't have a Cold setting, is that correct? Is it continually variable between Warm and Hot, or are those two distinct settings? Are the water level controls etc. under the lid electrical? and if so, where are the wires run? The round black button and the narrow black button under the lid: one of those is offbalance control?, which one is that, and what's the other one for? And do those switches under the lid also have the effect of being a safety interlock?
Okay, dumb questions dep't: I think I see the water temp control doesn't have a Cold setting, is that correct? Is it continually variable between Warm and Hot, or are those two distinct settings? Are the water level controls etc. under the lid electrical? and if so, where are the wires run? The round black button and the narrow black button under the lid: one of those is offbalance control?, which one is that, and what's the other one for? And do those switches under the lid also have the effect of being a safety interlock?
YAY for Mint Machines
Hi Austin, WOW you new Maytag look just MINT! Its in beautiful shape, put on a new cord, prime the pump with hot water and try 'em out. Let us know how it works.
Great pictures as always.
Hi Austin, WOW you new Maytag look just MINT! Its in beautiful shape, put on a new cord, prime the pump with hot water and try 'em out. Let us know how it works.
Great pictures as always.
geoffdelp
Well-known member
I think I can answer some of these ... no, there was no cold setting. Maytag felt that all items were to be rinsed in warm water (100 degrees, I think?). No, it's not variable between warm or hot; it's either warm OR hot. Hot was as hot as your tap provided and warm was 100 degrees.
The water level, float, and off balance switch were electrical within the lid and operate on a mercury-switch system.
The narrow black switch is the off-balance switch. When the tub goes off balance, the agitator strikes the switch and shuts off the power. The round button is the water level and the cap on the agitator rises as the water goes into the tub and when the right water level is reached, it trips the switch causing the agitator to start.
Did that help?
OH, BTW ... CONGRATULATIONS AUSTIN! I'm green with 101P envy!!! I'm very happy for you ... enjoy your Maytag 101P with the BEAUTIFUL red gyratator. The gyrafoam method of washing is great!
The water level, float, and off balance switch were electrical within the lid and operate on a mercury-switch system.
The narrow black switch is the off-balance switch. When the tub goes off balance, the agitator strikes the switch and shuts off the power. The round button is the water level and the cap on the agitator rises as the water goes into the tub and when the right water level is reached, it trips the switch causing the agitator to start.
Did that help?
OH, BTW ... CONGRATULATIONS AUSTIN! I'm green with 101P envy!!! I'm very happy for you ... enjoy your Maytag 101P with the BEAUTIFUL red gyratator. The gyrafoam method of washing is great!
golittlesport
Well-known member
Great pictures...thanks for posting. One thing that has never been clear to me is how the different water levels worked with the floating agitator cap system.
What a great treasure you have Austin!! Just goes to show how "The Dependable Automatics" truly lived up to that claim.
Rich
Once you dailled the water level you wanted the dial changed the distance inside the lid the amount that the agitator cap had to move the mercury bulb switch so a high setting meant a large gap before the trip lever inside the lid pushed the mercury bulb to "on" or wash.
The agitator cap also rose and fell to different heights depending on how much water was in the tub, but the lid dial changed the sensitivity of the control system.
Does anyone know how to install the chrome cap on the bellows at the top of the agitator in case it comes off??
There is one and only one trick to that??
jet
Once you dailled the water level you wanted the dial changed the distance inside the lid the amount that the agitator cap had to move the mercury bulb switch so a high setting meant a large gap before the trip lever inside the lid pushed the mercury bulb to "on" or wash.
The agitator cap also rose and fell to different heights depending on how much water was in the tub, but the lid dial changed the sensitivity of the control system.
Does anyone know how to install the chrome cap on the bellows at the top of the agitator in case it comes off??
There is one and only one trick to that??
jet
WOO HOO!!!!!! CONGRATULATIONS AUSTIN!!!!! The Maytag looks fabulous!!!!
How purty! Congrats!
mayken4now
Well-known member
Autsin:
Did you run it yet? Want to know all the details.
You know How I love the Maytag's.
Steve
Did you run it yet? Want to know all the details.
You know How I love the Maytag's.
Steve
westytoploader
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2004
- Messages
- 4,485
101P Update
Hi everyone,
I turned the machine on its side (however returned it to an upright position after initial cleaning...very HEAVY!), and so far I've been able to remove the badly worn belt (which is still available off of RepairClinic, however, my dad is going to check tomorrow with Granger) and clean the oil residue off of the clutch/pulley (so this one DOES have an oil clutch!), as well as the base. It's going to clean up even better than it is now; the motor is in great shape. I'm not going to do any more until the Maytag Repair-Master (eBay) and "AMP goodie bag" (thanks to a generous collector...
) arrive...then I'll be able to replace the cord and water valve as well as remove the cabinet, so stay tuned
The cracked original cord is in dangerously bad shape, but I was extra-careful when I tried to get the motor to come to life (remember that I previously removed the belt). I first set the timer to "agitate", pulled it out, and plugged it in. Nothing. Tried it with the timer knob pushed in. Nothing. Also tried "Damp Dry" to see if the solenoid would snap, in both the in and out. Nothing. Hopefully this machine didn't die early and wasn't put in the closet because of this, and there's just a break in the cord somewhere. Will try again after replacing the cord and keep y'all posted.
--Austin
Hi everyone,
I turned the machine on its side (however returned it to an upright position after initial cleaning...very HEAVY!), and so far I've been able to remove the badly worn belt (which is still available off of RepairClinic, however, my dad is going to check tomorrow with Granger) and clean the oil residue off of the clutch/pulley (so this one DOES have an oil clutch!), as well as the base. It's going to clean up even better than it is now; the motor is in great shape. I'm not going to do any more until the Maytag Repair-Master (eBay) and "AMP goodie bag" (thanks to a generous collector...
) arrive...then I'll be able to replace the cord and water valve as well as remove the cabinet, so stay tuned The cracked original cord is in dangerously bad shape, but I was extra-careful when I tried to get the motor to come to life (remember that I previously removed the belt). I first set the timer to "agitate", pulled it out, and plugged it in. Nothing. Tried it with the timer knob pushed in. Nothing. Also tried "Damp Dry" to see if the solenoid would snap, in both the in and out. Nothing. Hopefully this machine didn't die early and wasn't put in the closet because of this, and there's just a break in the cord somewhere. Will try again after replacing the cord and keep y'all posted.
--Austin
Austin, all has been said, but I'll add, congratulations young man!! You do Texas very proud!!!
It sounds like a bad cord, do you see lights or hear the timer motor? I belive I read that the solenoid is wired through the start windings of the motor, unless the motor is running at top speed, the solenoid won't energize. Your belt is a 4L420, available at most hardware stores (Ace, Tru-Value, Hardware Hank) for around $7 - don't pay $25 on Repair Clinic!
Should the need arise, use a 5/8" dowel pressed up against the rubber top of the agitator, then snap the cap back on. In machines where the agitator is stuck, you can remove the rubber diaphram, pack the agitator column with snow or crushed ice until it is cupped over the top; stretch the diaphram over it and snap on the cap. The ice will melt and the cap will return to it's normal position. See Jon, there is a use for that KA 'pelican-head' ice chipper after all!!
Should the need arise, use a 5/8" dowel pressed up against the rubber top of the agitator, then snap the cap back on. In machines where the agitator is stuck, you can remove the rubber diaphram, pack the agitator column with snow or crushed ice until it is cupped over the top; stretch the diaphram over it and snap on the cap. The ice will melt and the cap will return to it's normal position. See Jon, there is a use for that KA 'pelican-head' ice chipper after all!!
Hey Austin!
I couldn't sleep tonite, and saw that you have gotten started on the AMP! Too cool. I remember Geoff Delp's machine acted the same way when Cory and I first came across it while it was still in KC. Sounds like a new cord is in order. The manual has also advised to check the merc switches in the lid. Robert still has photos from his AMP resto in his Yahoo photos, which shows the layout of the switches.
From what I've read, it appears that early machines, say Robert's amp, drew current for the brake solenoid right from the start windings on the motor. This in theory could cause the solenoid to pull enough current to labor the motor while starting. Later models (maybe starting with the 101P?), used an centrifugal switch in the motor that energized the brake solenoid after the motor had gotten to full speed.
Austin, enjoy the resto of this amazing machine. I myself am looking forward to the day I can begin work on an AMP! I guess I would first need to bring one home =)
Greg - I didn't know that you could use a regular v-belt in an AMP! The parts manuals call out for the same 2-11125 drive belt as Helical machines, but I can see where you wouldn't need the OEM belt to act as a clutch per-say on an AMP, and could use a regluar 4L belt. Thanks for the size!
I couldn't sleep tonite, and saw that you have gotten started on the AMP! Too cool. I remember Geoff Delp's machine acted the same way when Cory and I first came across it while it was still in KC. Sounds like a new cord is in order. The manual has also advised to check the merc switches in the lid. Robert still has photos from his AMP resto in his Yahoo photos, which shows the layout of the switches.
From what I've read, it appears that early machines, say Robert's amp, drew current for the brake solenoid right from the start windings on the motor. This in theory could cause the solenoid to pull enough current to labor the motor while starting. Later models (maybe starting with the 101P?), used an centrifugal switch in the motor that energized the brake solenoid after the motor had gotten to full speed.
Austin, enjoy the resto of this amazing machine. I myself am looking forward to the day I can begin work on an AMP! I guess I would first need to bring one home =)
Greg - I didn't know that you could use a regular v-belt in an AMP! The parts manuals call out for the same 2-11125 drive belt as Helical machines, but I can see where you wouldn't need the OEM belt to act as a clutch per-say on an AMP, and could use a regluar 4L belt. Thanks for the size!
