1953 Maytag 101P AMP!!

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

Help Support AutomaticWasher.org:

Rich

Once you dailled the water level you wanted the dial changed the distance inside the lid the amount that the agitator cap had to move the mercury bulb switch so a high setting meant a large gap before the trip lever inside the lid pushed the mercury bulb to "on" or wash.
The agitator cap also rose and fell to different heights depending on how much water was in the tub, but the lid dial changed the sensitivity of the control system.

Does anyone know how to install the chrome cap on the bellows at the top of the agitator in case it comes off??
There is one and only one trick to that??

jet
 
Austin, you are so lucky to have such a collection. I can't wait to see more pics once you have her up and running. Was 53 the last year of the red gyrator before Maytag switched to black?
 
101P Update

Hi everyone,

I turned the machine on its side (however returned it to an upright position after initial cleaning...very HEAVY!), and so far I've been able to remove the badly worn belt (which is still available off of RepairClinic, however, my dad is going to check tomorrow with Granger) and clean the oil residue off of the clutch/pulley (so this one DOES have an oil clutch!), as well as the base. It's going to clean up even better than it is now; the motor is in great shape. I'm not going to do any more until the Maytag Repair-Master (eBay) and "AMP goodie bag" (thanks to a generous collector...:)) arrive...then I'll be able to replace the cord and water valve as well as remove the cabinet, so stay tuned :)

The cracked original cord is in dangerously bad shape, but I was extra-careful when I tried to get the motor to come to life (remember that I previously removed the belt). I first set the timer to "agitate", pulled it out, and plugged it in. Nothing. Tried it with the timer knob pushed in. Nothing. Also tried "Damp Dry" to see if the solenoid would snap, in both the in and out. Nothing. Hopefully this machine didn't die early and wasn't put in the closet because of this, and there's just a break in the cord somewhere. Will try again after replacing the cord and keep y'all posted.

--Austin
 
It sounds like a bad cord, do you see lights or hear the timer motor? I belive I read that the solenoid is wired through the start windings of the motor, unless the motor is running at top speed, the solenoid won't energize. Your belt is a 4L420, available at most hardware stores (Ace, Tru-Value, Hardware Hank) for around $7 - don't pay $25 on Repair Clinic!

Should the need arise, use a 5/8" dowel pressed up against the rubber top of the agitator, then snap the cap back on. In machines where the agitator is stuck, you can remove the rubber diaphram, pack the agitator column with snow or crushed ice until it is cupped over the top; stretch the diaphram over it and snap on the cap. The ice will melt and the cap will return to it's normal position. See Jon, there is a use for that KA 'pelican-head' ice chipper after all!!
 
Hey Austin!

I couldn't sleep tonite, and saw that you have gotten started on the AMP! Too cool. I remember Geoff Delp's machine acted the same way when Cory and I first came across it while it was still in KC. Sounds like a new cord is in order. The manual has also advised to check the merc switches in the lid. Robert still has photos from his AMP resto in his Yahoo photos, which shows the layout of the switches.

From what I've read, it appears that early machines, say Robert's amp, drew current for the brake solenoid right from the start windings on the motor. This in theory could cause the solenoid to pull enough current to labor the motor while starting. Later models (maybe starting with the 101P?), used an centrifugal switch in the motor that energized the brake solenoid after the motor had gotten to full speed.

Austin, enjoy the resto of this amazing machine. I myself am looking forward to the day I can begin work on an AMP! I guess I would first need to bring one home =)

Greg - I didn't know that you could use a regular v-belt in an AMP! The parts manuals call out for the same 2-11125 drive belt as Helical machines, but I can see where you wouldn't need the OEM belt to act as a clutch per-say on an AMP, and could use a regluar 4L belt. Thanks for the size!

3-7-2006-02-49-10--swestoyz.jpg
 
Very interesting mechanism!

A word of caution about those mercury switches. Check them to be sure all the mercury is in the glass bulb and it doesn't have any cracks or breakage. If you have a broken mercury switch, you have a more-or-less invisible toxic hazard to clean up and that should be done a) in a well-ventilated area, b) with appropriate safety gloves, goggles, and probably a respirator of some kind (not just a dust mask). And then c) the machine should be put through a couple of washes with no load but with sufficient detergent to whip up some suds, to be sure.

One could always bypass the mercury switches as per Swestoyz (and/or bypass all the wiring into the lid: shock hazard?) and then remove those components entirely and put them in an airtight display case.

Either way, you've got an interesting project there and it's going to turn out great.
 
I think the Mercury hazard (from the mercury switches) may have been overstated.

Mercury is a metal in its liquid form at room temperature and can be poisonous if you ingest it or inhale it in its vapor form--but that's not likely since it boils at about 365 deg. F, so first you would have to heat it. It will not harm you to handle it; but that is not recommended; still, you're not going to die or grow three heads, etc. (lol). Because it is very heavy it will sink in water and most other substances. It is not soluble in water and soap has no effect on it.

The main environmental concerns are groundwater contamination and ingestion by marine life, which is why the EPA doesn't want it in landfills, etc. Unless you are using it to smelt gold, make glass or some other industrial process, it's not likely that you're going to come into contact with it's vapors.

The bottom line: Be aware of its toxicity and pay attention to what you are doing, otherwise use ordinary precaution and will be fine. Any Mercury that has leaked will have sunk to the bottom and likely been thrown out and/or pumped out with the wash water.
 
Now stop that paranoid nonsense! The mercury in the switches is SEALED and unless I purposely smash the mercury bulb with a hammer, there is NO possible way it would leak out. Maytag AMP's and quite a few Whirlpool/Kenmore machines used mercury switches without fail...
 
Do you remember?

There was a T.V. show called The Real McCoys(?) In one episode all the housewife's in the area went together to buy an automatic washer, I think this was the model ! It was kept in the McCoy kitchen and wheeled up to the sink. I think the story was Mrs. McCoy spent so much time and money entertaining the others when they were doing thier wash she could not get her work done so she went back to the wringer washer.
 
I remember the "Real McCoy's" from when I was a youngster. I remember my mom loved that show. It also featured some classic actors, including "Gramps".

But I was too young to remember any of the plots - other than that most of the action seemed to take place in the ktichen.

That's a show that needs to come out on DVD.

Currently I'm enjoying a DVD six pack of all of the "Thin Man" movies. So far I'm though "After the Thin Man". Nice shots of San Francisco, and classic Packards, and the ice boxes keep on getting more elaborate, but so far no shots of washers. Somehow I think a Bendix would fit in quite nicely into one of those sets.
 
I'm screening "What Ever Happened To Baby Jane" for a Bette Davis project at TCM and I noticed she has an early AMP in her kitchen.
 
Back
Top