1957 GE Washer & Dryer project thread

[delco1946]

Hi Stan and others. Sorry it’s been so long but life has been rather hectic. Update - had the original clutch practically rebuilt, new bearings etc but is was soooo noisy is sounded like a jack hammer was going off. I bought a replacement clutch (probably 80s era??) and finally got it installed. With the help of a couple people on here I found a NOS shifter solenoid and installed that, too. It’s up and running!! I replaced the light bulb, continued cleaning everything, and checked the rest of it. It’s much quieter.

Of course as soon as I got the clutch replaced the water level switch isn’t functioning correctly. The switch itself works but the spring no longer has enough oomph to depress near full and is triggered with only a few inches of water. Finding replacement torsion springs with the same dimensions has been fruitless unless I want to spend 350 dollars for a custom design . No hardware store stocks them in person and I’m hesitant to spend lots of money on springs that I can’t test in person for their force resistance. All this to say that I have to watch it and press the water saver switch or else it will overflow while I have the pressure switch disconnected.

 

[delco1946]

2nd half of the first spin ( it pauses and then speeds up since the water is mostly drained). Other than the water level issue, it cleans very well. Please ignore my dirty basement as this has prompted me to renovate my laundry area into a 1940s/50s themed laundry room. I am currently in the process of grinding my concrete floors and sanding my walls, which I will then finish and install new plumbing and electrical. Works been very hectic so it’s all moving at a snail’s pace.

 

[delco1946]

Soooo if anyone has leads on replacement springs, I’m all ears.

 

[delco1946]

I know me so well….

Knew this was going to happen after having disconnected the pressure switch until I find a spring replacement. Started a load of wash and promptly walked away doing other chores. Later I just hear my roommate’s blood-curdling scream from the basement as the washer has just been over flowing into the basement during the rinse cycle .

I needed a good laugh today. Thankfully the motor has a splash shield so no harm no foul.

 

[delco1946]

Slightly off topic but I’m expanding the 50s GE collection!

Haven’t been doing to much with washer or dryers lately - mine are running ( although I still need to replace the water fill shutdown switch unit that mounts under the tub if anyone has leads).

I did ship a 1956 TOL GE Liberator from Colorado to match my fridge ( the 57 ovens look too modern for me). Just reinstalled a restored clock mechanism. Still need to diagnose the meat thermometer not working and need to investigate what causes the automatic calrod units to fail. Slowly but surely getting it fully working!

Started to fix the small oven wiring and light which is dis-continuous, hence the taped knob.

The appliances are the only things I’ll be keep once I finally remodel the kitchen.

 

[swestoyz]

Nice! Both look lovely together. The full width pedal on the '57 fridges are just so over the top awesome.

Ben

 

[repairguy]

Congrats! They look great.

 

[114jwh]

Very nice set Christopher - congratulations. They look to be in great condition! Funny coincidence, I have the opposite configuration as you. I have a 1956 GE Combination fridge (top mount freezer) and the 1957/58 version of your GE stove in the 30" configuration - both in white though. You are right, there was a pretty big change between 1956 and 1957 in the look of the GEs with the rounded corners vs the straight corners and other updates.

Good luck with the stove. Mine needed everything and was quite the job but once you get it all sorted out they are excellent! The meat probe on mine wouldn't work properly at first either but it turns out it just needed some coaxing.

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

 

[delco1946]

James, What do you mean by coaxing? Any tips to get it working? The service manual lists some tests and I just haven’t gotten there yet. I bought a new old stock probe that probably goes to an early 60s GE but it’s the same plug style so figuring it’ll work. Were your contacts just corroded?

This stove was far from mint but it was so cheap that I couldn’t say no. I also need to find the broiler pan and the griddle.

 

[114jwh]

Hi Christopher

It was awhile ago now but from what I remember, I boiled a pot of water and then turned it down to a fast simmer, turned the oven on (the oven has to be on for the meat probe circuit to get power) and then with the probe connected I would dip it into the hot water and watch the temperature gauge on the control panel, take it out for a min and then put it back in, repeat. Eventually I saw that the temperature gauge would start moving, very slowly at first and after several cycles of this, it started moving at the pace it should have been moving when placed into the hot water. When I got the stove it hadn't been used in at least 50 years so I think it was just a bit stuck.

Before I had done this, I checked continuity between the plug and the gauge so I knew it wasn't a loose or broken wire/connection. I believe there is a transformer in the circuit to step down the voltage as well so you would want to check that too.

You are right, there are some detailed tests in the service manual but I didn't end up needing to go that far. Ever since I did that its worked perfectly. I use the probe anytime I'm roasting meat and find it super handy and has been spot on accurate to measure doneness correctly. I know I'd really miss having it so hope you can get yours working.

Hope this helps, let us know how it goes. Feel free to message/email if I didn't explain anything well.