1958 Maytags

[rickr]

A couple people wanted to see what these looked like inside,so here are a few pictures. Remember I am not going to use the gas dryer. I have a white electic model that will be repainted pink,when the with the washer cabinet. I will use the top from the pink dryer,and a few other parts from it will be saved for spare parts.

 

[rickr]

the electic dryer that will be used

Is this one. It was restored last Winter,so it is only a matter of a cabinet color change.

 

[rickr]

Dryer tear down

Looks like all of them.... A mess inside.

 

[rickr]

Washer

It has been many years since these have ran.

 

[rickr]

Washer

These sat unused in a basement in Michigan for many years.The hoses are dry rotted. They crumble if pressure is applied in any way. The motor is seized,and so is the pump. The motor can be saved,however it might be best to replace the metal body pump with the newer plastic type.It would be nice to save the original,but it would be a regretable situation if it would fail later and flood the floor after the restoration.

There is no sign of an oil leak,like so many of these have. Perhaps the washer was "retired" before the seal had a chance to leak.
I think it is best to replace the seal,and trans oil now. Or are these more of a "if it ain't broke,don't fix it" type of thing? Any input?
Thanks!

 

[rickr]

top

Of washer. I removed the lid for refinishing after this pix,as it was painted,and had faded like the cabinet. I found a tub light in there,along with the two mercury switches I have often heard about from this site.

 

[rickr]

Dryer top

Just needs a really good cleaning,and switch the timer to the electric model.

 

[fixerman]

As long as you got it apart, I would suggest you go ahead and rebuild the trans. They are very simple. Usually just an oring, gasket and new oil and your done.

 

[gansky1]

Take lots of pics!

What great pics of a very early Helical drive and it's mate! I agree, rebuild the mechanism now - odds are, you won't ever have to do it again. I can't wait to see more of the first Helical design, a pivoting motor - Don Shier has one of these and I can't wait to poke my head inside next time I'm up there!

 

[maytagbear]

Rick-

These are going to be so AWESOME when you are done with them.

Best of luck!

Lawerence/Maytagbear

 

[bostonwash]

nice display room, Thanks for the pics, looks good.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Hey Rick, great job! Can't wait to see that beautiful pink washer in action.

 

[westytoploader]

Woohoo!! Looks like you're off to a great start!

Good luck--can't wait to see what they look like when they're done!

 

[swestoyz]

The good stuff

Rick, sounds like a wonderful project! As with everything you do, I'm sure they will be first-class machines when they are ready for display (and use!).

Ben

 

[rickr]

Thanks Guys!

Thanks for the vote of confidence guys!! I worked on the set again this weekend. The pink washer and white dryer cabinets are both in the trunk of the 55 Cadillac,waiting to take to the body shop for refinishing. The dryer cabinet breaks down to three pieces so it fit inside the washer cabinet. The trunk is only a couple of inches from shutting,so I will tie it down.
The gas dryer is sitting by the trash for pickup. I salvaged the fan,idler pulley and shaft,and the motor.

I cleaned up and serviced the washer motor today,and it is fine. The pump was taken down,cleaned,lubed and a new gasket made for it,so we will try the vintage metal water pump also.

I do have some questions on replacing the oil seals in the washer transmition. If memory serves me correctly there are two oil seals to these transmitions. One is fairly easy to replace,and the other requires the use of special tools and lots of #@%&*$ words. Due to the age of this machine,I want to replace all the seals. Even if it requires transporting the rest of the washer to my local washer parts and service "peeps". Any thoughts on this?

Thanks!

 

[fixerman]

There is only one seal inside the transmission. It is an o-rig that fits into a groove on the top side of the upper bearing of the lower transmission housing. The only special tool needed for this is a dental pick type tool to fish out the old o-ring. It can be a pain to get out if it is brittle. They sometimes break and getting all the pieces out can be a job. The upper seal is outside the transmission and is very easy to replace after the trans houaing halves have been reassembled and after installing the outer tub.

If the splines on the gyrator shaft are too corroded the shaft will have to be replaced. Those are a pain because the drive gear has to come off. The drive gear is held on by a taper pin and they can be tough to get out. In this case it may be easier to find a donor trans and use the upper case from it.

 

[fixerman]

One other thing. There is a special "tool" for installing the drive shaft. It is plastic pigtail looking thing that screws onto the helical end of the drive shaft. It smoothes out the helical grooves so they don't cut the new o-ring. I have one and have used it but even without it I never had a trans leak from cutting the o-ring. Part no for this tool is 038555.

 

[fixerman]

Here's the tool. It's about $10.00

 

[kenmore1978]

gas dryer burner parts

You might want to salvage the gas burner parts, in case someone here needs to do a "reverse conversion" or just would need the parts because of failure. I imagine that part would be expensive to replace in case of failure for people who have the gas versions. Is it a pilot light or electronic ignition?