1966 Maytag's First Power-Fin Agitator

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The eleventh commandment.

We could start another whole thread on this topic but of all the vintage top loaders I've ever experienced, Maytags suffer more than any other from overloading. You CANNOT deviate from the prescribed loading without losing rollover and noticeably straining the works. I've always been surprised and suspicious that CU never seemed to notice this.

You could even overload a rollermatic and the machine would just go on its merry way and those clothes would move, if just up and down, but they'd move. And with a Filter-flo, fuggeddabouddit.

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unfortunately, Maytags will give in to a full load of water with no clothes in it, may not be much but there is slippage on the belt, I have tested this many times by applying extra pressure or an extra spring to the motor, then the speed picks up....

One or more of the following will cause belt slippage in Maytags:

Weak carriage springs

Worn rollers/guides

Lack of polylube for rollers/glides

Pump belt adjusted too tight/Excessive pump bearing friction from lack of lubrication (the pump requires periodic oiling intervals)

Thick transmission oil

.....And the #1 reason, upper shaft binding due to thickened oil (there's no oil flow up there)

After overhauling the trans in my '75 HA806, I adjusted the max water setting even with the lower portion of the lint filter. Overloaded the tub with towels and let 'er rip. Watched the agitation for a couple of minutes to get the rhythm down, then jammed the motor backwards with the back of my heel. No change in agitation speed. Proceeded to do it several more times and with no noticeable change, except the motor grew several times louder when it was jammed backwards.

Did that with my '74 806 and the trans agitation would speed up. I was expecting that since the agitation is a little sluggish. Since the machine has new belts, glides, springs with everything adjusted properly and lubed up, it's trans rebuild time. Yep, she's next on the list.

It appears I need to drag the camera out for some video proof of the above :)
 
If you take the time to look at the black Bakelite agitator and the turquoise Powerfin agitator side by side, you will see not only that the Powerfin has the flexible fins, but their shape is different from the high, fixed fins of the Bakelite agitator. With large loads in the narrow tub of the automatic, the high fins that extended to the edge of the skirt actually impeded turnover whereas the Powerfin design features fins that taper down toward the edge of the agitator skirt. You will also see that in the Powerfin design, the vanes emerge higher on the agitator column relative to their height at the base. This gives more of a vane on the agitator column that helps with water currents to pull clothes downward. This coup[led with the slightly speeded up ocm of the agitation makes a lot of difference in the turnover.

Another thing Maytag did when they introduced the new agitator was extend the rows of holes in the side of the tub down to the bottom. The older style tubs were solid opposite the agitator fins. The new design obviously forces water through the load at the bottom of the tub and out through the holes into the outer tub which might help cleaning. I know from having the Powerfin in a '61 Highlander where the holes do not go all the way to the bottom of the tub that the washing action is far more vigorous in the old-style tub than in the newer. In the newer tub the water is forced out of the tub through the lower rows of holes whereas in the old tub, with the same agitator, the water is forced up around the outside of the tub when it hits the solid portion which means that more water is pulled down near the agitator to better encourage turnover. Don't forget the problems Maytag had with bleach damage in their automatics, partly because agitation stopped when the lid was raised to add the bleach and partly because the shape of the old agitator did not encourage much downward water movement around the column. The Lint Filter agitator improved this somewhat.

If you have ever seen the inside of a Maytag conventional washer, you can see how much wider the tub is beyond the agitator skirt than in the automatics. The Gyrator created great water action and rollover in the wider tubs and, due to the width of the tub, the clothes were able to roll off from and away from the fins instead of being stuck right over the agitator in the narrow tub of the automatics. I agree that Maytag wanted to hide their anemic washing action from users. Only the bol, time fill AMP would operate with the lid up and after that they had the full cycle safety lid switch. When designing the automatic, Maytag refused to re-engineer their Gyrator to the realities of the narrower tub in the automatic. They could hide their washing action, but people who had a Maytag and then switched to a Whirlpool told John how much cleaner and better rinsed their clothes were with the Whirlpool.
 
Hey Martin, Dan, Greg, guys check out this article about Maytag "NEW GENERATION WASHERS" with the new Power-Fin Agitator. It explains the purpose of the flexible fins and it's ability. You'll need to ZOOM IN to read it clearer.

Harry

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Guys you may cring when I tell you this but, I washed a big load of 6 sheets in my 712 and the entire load finished beautifully. The load consisted of 3 queen size flats, 2 twin size flats and 1 fitted sheet.
Now I made a few changes to accomodate the load size... I set the water level to my version of super load using (22 gallons of water), added 6 minutes more to the wash time and let it rinse 4 minutes for extra rollover time. The power fin agitator did an AMAZING job of cleaning all of the sheets.
You may not believe it but, it continually turnover the sheets. My sheets were sparkling clean...I used 2X ultra tide cold water liquid detergent. AWESOME!!! The 712 is performing way beyond my expectations. I am really surprised by the deep tub usable capacity and the power fin's dazzling cleaning ability.

Harry
 
Harry, thanks for posting that old ad, haven't seen that, literally, in 43 years.

Yours is my point exactly: most of the people who do the Maytag thing, have at some point, in some way, tinkered with their machines to beef performance up a bit. If one uses the machine as manufactured, one has to load as instructed, only up to the top row of holes and without stuffing or compacting the load. Another issue is that the wash and rinse times are stingy, if that rollover doesn't get started early, especially in the two minute deep rinse, ain't going to happen.

The only tinkering I will ever do with Filter-flo's is to replace those idiotic straight vane activators, whenever and wherever I see them, with spiral ramp ones. I've seen GE's move loads of clothes that are close to their "claimed" capacities.
 
You're welcome Ken...

I know to most my big sheet load is stuffed and compacted but, I found you really cannot overload a Maytag washer, the power fin agitator will not cooperate. I always listen to the motor and watch the turnover, if it's humming too loud, I'll add more water to the load. If the load is moving extremely too slow, I'll also add more water. That will resolve the issue. But, I truly believe a well designed and powerful agitator can move the load even when it's handling big loads.

The only reason the power fin can be uneffecive is because (the width of the flexible fins is too wide at the edge.) A narrower and more tapered edge will allow smoother circulation of the clothes at the bottom of the tub...there's more room to move around.

Any and all turnover will slow down with full loads...that's with the best agitators...that's automatic. You cannot judge any agitator's ability by overstuffing the washtub. IMOP, the power fin agitator does a great job with rollover. Big loads, much better than I ever expected.

Harry
 
the only problem I ever see in machines like this, is the fins are at the bottom only, they have to produce all the work, even some kenmores are the same....not to compare apples and oranges, but GE FF and whirlpool have vanes that come all the way to the top, and somewhat performs cleaning at all levels....

wether the powerfin is white, turquoise, or black...Maytag has never changed, theres nothing to compare it to, like GE, Whirlpool and Kenmore, you can switch different agitators out, to see a difference in performance and turnover....UNTIL NOW!!!

WHY, is that a GE straight vane in a Maytag?....say it isn't so!.....try a GE ramp rotoswirl or even a Surgilator....

curious aren't you?

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ancient chinese secret!

got you wondering don't I?

some people said it couldn't be done, and for most things this could be true, but somethings get the best of me and I have to figure out a way....

I'll bet you want details?
 
LOL! Calgon. That's the same agitator used in the commerical.

Tell us about, please?

Martin, you know what I noticed when you removed the lint filter in the power fin agitator, the circulating water in the barrel causes extra suction that helps force the clothes faster downward into the fins.
 
Simpler than you think......

and your gonna say "Why didn't I think of that!"

well here goes.....

I had a loadsensor agitator which the spiral internals were broke beyond repair.....so I removed the spiral and all the internals, left me with a short center post, had to cut off the powerfins from the bottom....

re-installed into the machine and tightened down the screw.....then tried several agitators over top, with three small screws to hold it in place...and presto!

I used Surgilator first, then the GE straight vane, but the GE ramp works best and has the best turnover in this machine...

what you have to consider is Maytags a little slower than a GE, but the stroke is longer...every third stroke backwards caused one complete revolution of the clothes in the tub, on a normal load, full water level

What do you think Harry?
 
MT POWER FINN AGITATORS

The PF agitator can be very hard on clothes especially if loaded heavily. When CRs tested 1 speed washers to see if you really needed to spend the extra money on a two speed model the MT was the only washer in the test that put runs in the sheer curtain panels they used for testing. Check out the report some one down loaded it on this site within the last year.Thats the reason I don't use MT washers as ever day machines they just use too much water for the amount of clothing that can be safely washed in them. I do love them for the history and will have more than 10 machines in the warehouse restored from the first AMP-the last electronic stack gas washer-dryer.
 
WOW!!! SO DIAPPOINTED...

See I was totally unaware that Maytag washers were hard on clothes. The power fin agitator was not as GENTLE as claimed. The surprising thing is I've never read any CR ratings article about a "harsh and rough" factor with Maytag washers. Nor, ever read any threads complaining about the power fin agitator being too hard on the clothes. My 712 will be my daily driver.

Harry
 
Maypool Mayhem

They ARE harsh if overloaded since they don't rollover heavy loads well at all,causing the clothes at the bottom to get a beating, whilst those on top little if anything. HOWEVER, they are quite gentle when underloaded, generally no more than 2/3 full if not a little less. I live in a condo and am forced to use a Maytag made by Whirlpool coin-op with the straight vaned 180 SPM agitator. This IS the harshest washer I have ever used,would love an old 2 speed Power Fin instead!
 
Yes, overloading, or a heavy load in any machine will cause the tearing of clothing.....

but properly loaded, meaning clothes circulate, they sink and then re-appear, you can keep adding clothes until this slows down, but if the rollover stops, you have added too much...

just in the back of my mind knowing that a Maytag will give in to a load, it's just something I would not fill above 2/3rds with dry clothing, just to be sure its getting the best possible wash, even though I would be so-called wasting water...but these machines are not my daily drivers, just for the fun of drama to watch, if I wanted to do a heavy load, I would either choose a GE FF or a FL
 
WOW!!! SO DIAPPOINTED...See I was totally unaware that Maytag washers were hard on clothes.

Meh, take combos opinion with a grain of salt. I have 50 year old towels that have been washed in nothing but long stroke Maytags and they show little wear. I personally have 17 year old clothes that only show wear and tear from use, not washings. My grandmother owned nothing but Maytags for 45+ years (her last was a late 60's HA/HDE806 that she left behind in her recent move). My grandfather was still wearing clothes from the 60's/70's when he passed away in 2001 (gotta love the depression era folks). Yep, spent the majority of their life being washed in that HA806 washer.

However, Grandma was not a stuffer and all of her Maytags were 2 speeds, so that probably helped the gentle items last longer. She was a chronic cold water washer though. Luckily, I've actually made some recent progress in that department and she has been delighted with the results. She did immediately regret leaving the 806's behind after a few loads in the Kenmore DD washer. She complained about it being very harsh on the clothes and didn't come out as clean as the 806. She did mention that the lint filter for the dryer is a little easier to clean and install on the Kenmore vs. the HDE806 HOH dryer.

What was the reason she left the 806's behind, you ask? She wanted a washer/dryer in white.....so they could be hidden behind closet doors in the laundry area
 
Mrcleanjeans, no more than 2/3 full if not, less seems such a bad waste of usable space. The deep tub is such a waste in size permitted only to wash smaller loads.

Hey Martin, unfortunately I only have room for one washer at a time. My 712 is my new daily, it's why I'm taking it a little hard. I am using an extra spring to strength of the power fin stroke to decrease the give.

Dan, apparently, the "extra boost" double flexing of the fins from the back and forth is also tearing the clothes. The extra spring was suppose to help handle my big load easier, not cause damage.
 
You really must do 2/3 full of clothes or less. I'd rather "waste" a little water than waste my clothes. These machines just can't clean too big of a load. I could work with that. They ARE the BEST in quality and longevity and are very gentle when used properly!
 
That's because you loosely load to the top. The 2/3 rule is general and depends on the fabric. Most people will HAVE to follow it since few load loosely. Of course, most on this site likely load their clothes very well!
 
most on this site likely load their clothes very well!

You would be shocked! A lot of people on this site come just short of standing in the machine to get more clothes in the tub.
 
WASHER PERFORMANCE

Dan I don't appreciate your discounting my nearly 40 years experience in working directly with tens of thousands of customers and thier experiences with thier machines performance. I have tried to Email you directly about this and other offensive quips and the Email address on your profile won't work, please Email me when you get a chance. Thanks your friend John.
 
John,

I'm not discounting what you have said, I'm just saying that your comments are not what my family, who has been running long stroke Maytags for a combined 75+ years, have experienced. As stated earlier, I have 50 year old towels and sheets that have seen nothing but Maytag fins and they're not torn nor shredded. It's very difficult to argue with 50 years worth of tangible evidence sitting in my linen closest and 20 years of clothing in my dresser drawers. Respectfully yours,

Dan
 
We have a Maytag A606 and we actually wear our clothes untill they're worn out. Wearing them out takes a long time. My towels are finally starting to fray, but we don't have many so they've been washed once a week for 13 years.

Load it properly, and set the timer accordingly. I've seen people wash everything for the full 10 minutes, 5 minutes is about right for most loads.

Ken D.
 
Load time

I always use the maximum time available, regardless of machine or load. On my Lady K that's a full 14 minutes!
 
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