2007 Kenmore elite oasis drain pump problem

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freedumb

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Oct 9, 2020
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4
Location
Northern Illinois
The impeller on drain pump wore out, so I replaced the pump assembly with a new one. While I was at it, I checked all hoses for obstruction, took out the basket and cover that is over the drain outlet to assure everything was clear. The new pump makes a ratcheting noise when trying to start, but won’t drain. (The old pump also made this noise.) Eventually, I get the “ld” code. I removed the pump and powered it directly and it spins. The lid lock works. Is there something electronically involved that will produce these symptoms? I’ve run out of ideas.
 
Drain hose

Have you pulled off the drain hose from the pump to the back of the machine? Something could have gone past the original pump's impeller and broken it and then lodged in the hose somewhere. This might cause an error code to be thrown telling the computer the water is not draining fast enough.

I had a problem with my 1997 Neptune where one of the clips that hold the tub halves together found its way into the drain hose after the pump and caused the machine to not drain. I can only guess that the clip came from when they built the machine and was an extra and fell inside the inner drum as an inspection revealed none missing on the outside of the drum!
I bet you find something stuck in the hose.
 
I have determined the drain hose is clear. It is not that it is draining slowly, it is that it is not draining at all. It makes a ratcheting noise intermittently , but doesn’t start to drain.
 
The replacement pump is a Siwdoy W10536347. I have run it directly from a 110V outlet. It spins freely, but I have not tested it under a load, except when installed in the washer. I suppose the new pump could be bad, but I don’t know of a further test it to determine that. I could put a screwdriver in the impeller to hold it and see if I can duplicate the noise. That means emptying the water by hand for the fourth time, but it is something to try.
 
Defective pump symptoms ?

I direct wired the pump while still in place with the machine lying face down. There was water in the pump, but not in the hoses. I noticed, when plugging in the cord, that the pump did not always spin right away. If I plugged it in forcefully, it would usually start, but if I plugged it in slowly, it would hum and not spin, even when plugged in all the way. It acted as if it had to overcome inertia before it could spin. I took it out of the machine, plugged it in, and had a harder time making it hum instead of spin, probably, because there was no water in it. The impeller also rattles around in the housing, but I don’t know if that is because it is running dry or if there is an intentional loose fit to pass obstacles through should they get caught in the pump.
Is this enough evidence to declare this a defective pump?
 
The Fix

I returned the “new” pump and when I opened the replacement, I knew by looking at the packaging, that this was, indeed, a new pump. I tested it before installation and it functioned and sounded differently than the first one. After installation, there were no problems.

The only real problem is that Amazon sent me a pump that had been returned to them, at least, once before. The first one was a pump in a box. The second one was wrapped in bubble wrap that appeared to have been in place for some time. The next time I return something to them, I will write “No Good” with an indelible marker so they can’t pass it on.
 
Well that's a cautionary tale about buying parts from Amazon. All that wasted diagnostic time. I bought a drive belt there, but my big parts come from the local mom 'n pop appliance parts & repair shop or Trible's branch when available.

I've bought NLA parts used on eBay but only after checking the seller's feedback, and gotten good results both times e.g. the non-eco water level switch/sensor and a spare timer for my Maytag.
 

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