There is no asbestos that we have ever found in one of these dryers. It is all fiberglass and foil faced fiberglass like above the heater box and under the top. If the water pan has rusted through, John showed me how easily that is fixed; you simply cut a piece of aluminum to fit in the bottom of the pan and then seal it into place around the edges with silicone seal. There are old seals made out of permagum that will have dried out and should be removed and replaced with silicone seal.
Those rollers below the door opening will need very important maintenance before each drying season because if they do not turn freely, the rubber tires will come off and there is no replacing them. You have to use a 7/16 inch box wrench to hold the nut under the porcelain bracket while turning the screw. When you remove the roller, there is a bronze bearing in the center of it which has to be removed and cleaned as does the inside bearing surface of the wheel. Rust Buster does a good job of removing the varnish from the oxidized lubricant from all surfaces. After a thorough cleaning, turbine oil is best for saturating the sintered bronze bearing surfaces although maybe Silicone grease which can take the heat would work now. When you put the rollers back together, you will need to remount them. It is easiest if you put a small piece of tape over one side of the 7/16 wrench. Place the nut on the tape and put the wrench under the bracket that holds the roller then you can screw the screw through the roller bearing and into the nut without the nut falling into an area where it is hard as hell to retrieve.
Be very careful when reinstalling the door plug because the door switch is mounted IN FRONT of the plug on the right so slide the plug into place BEHIND the door switch before pushing the left side into place and installing the 4 screws.
