50's Frigidaire Imperial Filtrator

[revvinkevin]

Rust in the drip pan

 

 

Awesome dryer, CONGRATS on getting it! 

 

I learned you must empty water from the drip pan after each load or when you're finished using it for a while, otherwise it will start to rust.  Obviously that one had water sitting in it for a while.

 

The previous owner of my dryer, showed me that "every so often" (5 - 10 - 20 loads??) you need to insert a long, narrow flexible handle brush through the condenser opening (condenser removed), and "sweep" around to remove any accumulated lint from between the inner & outer drums.

 

  

 

[akronman]

Thank you for input

This will be a decent amount of work, I'll keep you posted on progress. It's almost entirely dis-assembled, just down to the few screws I need to drill out.
Next is testing the heater box and motor before starting re-assembly. And I threw out ALL insulation, it'll be new stuff for the re-assembly.
Thanks--More later,
Mark

 

[wft2800]

I'm guessing the old insulation is asbestos...

 

[lakewebsterkid]

akronman

How upset would you be if I showed up with a wet load of towels?! I am very envious. You have an incredible find there! I am glad the machine went to someone who will provide it with the proper home it deserves! Keep us updated!

 

[tomturbomatic]

There is no asbestos that we have ever found in one of these dryers. It is all fiberglass and foil faced fiberglass like above the heater box and under the top. If the water pan has rusted through, John showed me how easily that is fixed; you simply cut a piece of aluminum to fit in the bottom of the pan and then seal it into place around the edges with silicone seal. There are old seals made out of permagum that will have dried out and should be removed and replaced with silicone seal.

Those rollers below the door opening will need very important maintenance before each drying season because if they do not turn freely, the rubber tires will come off and there is no replacing them. You have to use a 7/16 inch box wrench to hold the nut under the porcelain bracket while turning the screw. When you remove the roller, there is a bronze bearing in the center of it which has to be removed and cleaned as does the inside bearing surface of the wheel. Rust Buster does a good job of removing the varnish from the oxidized lubricant from all surfaces. After a thorough cleaning, turbine oil is best for saturating the sintered bronze bearing surfaces although maybe Silicone grease which can take the heat would work now. When you put the rollers back together, you will need to remount them. It is easiest if you put a small piece of tape over one side of the 7/16 wrench. Place the nut on the tape and put the wrench under the bracket that holds the roller then you can screw the screw through the roller bearing and into the nut without the nut falling into an area where it is hard as hell to retrieve.

Be very careful when reinstalling the door plug because the door switch is mounted IN FRONT of the plug on the right so slide the plug into place BEHIND the door switch before pushing the left side into place and installing the 4 screws.

 

[akronman]

Tom

Thank you for the advice, I will need it soon. Right now I am still dis-assembling the ENTIRE dryer.

The heater works for sure, proven an hour ago. Next is motor testing. Also the thermostat is taken entirely apart to sand the contacts.

Again, THANK YOU. This is cool as hell, but it's certainly not a one-weekend fix-it chore. I will be asking more soon----
Thanks
Mark