Akronman, thanks for the additional photo's of the "frogeye". I really like their styling. RE: reply #27 "the suds runs long enough to get all the water back...". I think you want the return hose positioned so you do not get the last 2 inches of water where the soils settle, in actual use. You are probably still testing? Thanks again for the pics. Arthur
57 Frogeye Kenmore washer, and matches set 59 Wirlpool Imperial
- Thread starter akronman
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Frog Eye!
Mark thank you for posting the console!
Peter
Mark thank you for posting the console!
Peter
ovrphil
Well-known member
Just for fun -
Here's a link to the matching dryer one of the members offered back in 2008, Dec.1.
The washer frog-eye dial is very cool - love the details.
Phil
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?19810
Here's a link to the matching dryer one of the members offered back in 2008, Dec.1.
The washer frog-eye dial is very cool - love the details.
Phil
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?19810
14 minute wash
Hey Peteski-----you are correct, the dial has 10-8-6-4-2 printed, but it's got notches and detents for the 12 and 14 for sure. Personally, I don't think ANYTHING needs more than 10 minutes. If it needs more, stop it after 5 and soak for a half hour, then turn it back on.
This thing just cycles perfectly! My 1960 WP and 1974 Kenmore do the neutral drain far too long, this one kicks in the spin within about 15 seconds of hearing the pump suck air, just great. And somehow, while I've never been entirley impressed with the WP/Kenmore 4 sprays instead of GE/Tag/Norge/1-18 having those 1.5 or 2 minute plentiful spray rinses, this one gets more suds out than either the 60 or 74 models, who knows? No need for extra rinse or extra spray. Maybe it's because it's pre-set on many temp choices here to give a warm rinse, so both solenoids are open and more water than the 74 model. Then when spray is done, I switch to a cold rinse choice for the fill.
My 1960 Whirlpool Imperial Mark VII is impressive but the 10 pushbuttons means there's no dial to watch so you know exactly where in each cycle you are. And the 1960 timer has given me intermittent trouble as far as powering the 3rd solenoid on the inlet valve, often that mix valve doesn't work and MEDIUM means HOT, warm rinse means cold, etc, then it's fine for two months. Frankly, if you push the timer knob to the left, it works correctly but I've had it apart too many delicate times to try fixing it for a livable error. But this 1959 3 solenoid, with the clear choices on the temp switch as opposed to the "pre-chosen" pushbutton one, and the exact ability to start/stop anywhere on the dial, it's just perfect operation.
I like the 1960's visible Magic Mix filter where you can add the soap and watch the water, but the lint filter here seem to get more lint, so it's pretty darn cool too. I agree it's almost entirely unnecesary in modern machines and modern tumble-dried laundry, but lint filters are fun as hell. I have never complained that it's an ugly job to clean them.
I installed a 1950 3 vane, 3 stub agitator for about 5 loads, couldn't tell any difference from the Surgilator. But the Surgilator has a shiny chrome top, so I went back to it. It sparkles, you understand.
Hey Peteski-----you are correct, the dial has 10-8-6-4-2 printed, but it's got notches and detents for the 12 and 14 for sure. Personally, I don't think ANYTHING needs more than 10 minutes. If it needs more, stop it after 5 and soak for a half hour, then turn it back on.
This thing just cycles perfectly! My 1960 WP and 1974 Kenmore do the neutral drain far too long, this one kicks in the spin within about 15 seconds of hearing the pump suck air, just great. And somehow, while I've never been entirley impressed with the WP/Kenmore 4 sprays instead of GE/Tag/Norge/1-18 having those 1.5 or 2 minute plentiful spray rinses, this one gets more suds out than either the 60 or 74 models, who knows? No need for extra rinse or extra spray. Maybe it's because it's pre-set on many temp choices here to give a warm rinse, so both solenoids are open and more water than the 74 model. Then when spray is done, I switch to a cold rinse choice for the fill.
My 1960 Whirlpool Imperial Mark VII is impressive but the 10 pushbuttons means there's no dial to watch so you know exactly where in each cycle you are. And the 1960 timer has given me intermittent trouble as far as powering the 3rd solenoid on the inlet valve, often that mix valve doesn't work and MEDIUM means HOT, warm rinse means cold, etc, then it's fine for two months. Frankly, if you push the timer knob to the left, it works correctly but I've had it apart too many delicate times to try fixing it for a livable error. But this 1959 3 solenoid, with the clear choices on the temp switch as opposed to the "pre-chosen" pushbutton one, and the exact ability to start/stop anywhere on the dial, it's just perfect operation.
I like the 1960's visible Magic Mix filter where you can add the soap and watch the water, but the lint filter here seem to get more lint, so it's pretty darn cool too. I agree it's almost entirely unnecesary in modern machines and modern tumble-dried laundry, but lint filters are fun as hell. I have never complained that it's an ugly job to clean them.
I installed a 1950 3 vane, 3 stub agitator for about 5 loads, couldn't tell any difference from the Surgilator. But the Surgilator has a shiny chrome top, so I went back to it. It sparkles, you understand.
1959 Whirlpool Imperial!
Mark - thank you for the reply. even though I never owned a belt drive WP or KM I used quit a few in friends and extended family homes. As I always remember most of the time 14 was selected for wash time, but I myself did use 10 at least 1/2 the time and it would do a great job. I thought almost all the smaller capacity machines has 2 minute drain periods and the larger ones were the only ones with the 4 minute drains! I always liked the clear top magic mix filter and loved to watch the water flow through it. I was dissappointed when the came up with the solid white magic mix and you could no longer watch the water flow.
I am also impressed with that 1960 Imperial Mark VII - it looks so interesting - can you set the wash time on that? or is it selected by the fabric selector? I assume that did up to a 14 min wash also?
As for the spray rinses I always felt these machines did a good job in rinsing, but to me the 1/18 long spray was the best!
Mark - thank you for the reply. even though I never owned a belt drive WP or KM I used quit a few in friends and extended family homes. As I always remember most of the time 14 was selected for wash time, but I myself did use 10 at least 1/2 the time and it would do a great job. I thought almost all the smaller capacity machines has 2 minute drain periods and the larger ones were the only ones with the 4 minute drains! I always liked the clear top magic mix filter and loved to watch the water flow through it. I was dissappointed when the came up with the solid white magic mix and you could no longer watch the water flow.
I am also impressed with that 1960 Imperial Mark VII - it looks so interesting - can you set the wash time on that? or is it selected by the fabric selector? I assume that did up to a 14 min wash also?
As for the spray rinses I always felt these machines did a good job in rinsing, but to me the 1/18 long spray was the best!
My mom (and dad, when he washed) always set 6 mins wash time on the 1962 Whirlpool.
Tide was the go-to detergent and it suds-locked like crazy unless a minimal dose was used. The first spin would sometimes drag-down by the 3rd spray rinse even if it started at full-speed.
Dual Action Agitator
Left is a WP Surgilator, same exact as in the machine it sits on. Right is a Kenmore agitator from 1957, they are interchangeable. Standard size WP-Kenmore machines for years in this era.
Is there a dual action later agitator I can install? does anyone know the part number, or have one to sell?
Or, with this being a 59 model, a few years before they beefed up the tranny and added 3 braces for it, should I not attempt a dual action one?
Thanks
Mark
Left is a WP Surgilator, same exact as in the machine it sits on. Right is a Kenmore agitator from 1957, they are interchangeable. Standard size WP-Kenmore machines for years in this era.
Is there a dual action later agitator I can install? does anyone know the part number, or have one to sell?
Or, with this being a 59 model, a few years before they beefed up the tranny and added 3 braces for it, should I not attempt a dual action one?
Thanks
Mark
Dual-action later agitator
Mark,
In a few 1976-1981 standard capacity models, and a couple 1981-1984 24-inch Kenmore models was a standard capacity Dual-action agitator. None of these were high volume models, so finding a leftover is very rare today.
I will get you a part number but last time I checked they were NLA.
If your machine or machines use their original agitator shaft with the metal drive block that installs on the shaft via a single keyway, you won't be able to use the DA which needs a splined agitator shaft. If you have the 1963 beefed-up gearcase, the splines should be there under the plastic drive block.
The important part about the standard capacity dual-action is the shorter auger. They use the same base agitator as the very common large cap DA, but the auger is a number of inches shorter. The lid won't shut properly over a large capacity DA with its standard auger.
I will dig up the part number for the standard capacity kit DA and get back to you.
Cool machines you have there!!!
Gordon
Mark,
In a few 1976-1981 standard capacity models, and a couple 1981-1984 24-inch Kenmore models was a standard capacity Dual-action agitator. None of these were high volume models, so finding a leftover is very rare today.
I will get you a part number but last time I checked they were NLA.
If your machine or machines use their original agitator shaft with the metal drive block that installs on the shaft via a single keyway, you won't be able to use the DA which needs a splined agitator shaft. If you have the 1963 beefed-up gearcase, the splines should be there under the plastic drive block.
The important part about the standard capacity dual-action is the shorter auger. They use the same base agitator as the very common large cap DA, but the auger is a number of inches shorter. The lid won't shut properly over a large capacity DA with its standard auger.
I will dig up the part number for the standard capacity kit DA and get back to you.
Cool machines you have there!!!
Gordon
Hi Gordon-----
IT's nice to hear from you and thanks for the info. Yes I'd like the PN for the fun of searching for a rare agitator, but I bet all my KM/WP's have their original tranny's and shafts. Darn, it would be fun if it was an easy swap. And my extra-capacity 1974 suds model would easily take the larger DA agitator, but it's currently got a screw instead of bolt holding on the PENTA SWIRL, and I have never gotten that damn screw off!
I'll steal your name and become KenmoreGuyII I think, 'cause by pure luck and the great KM/WP sales of the 50's to 70's, I have ended up with 5 washers and 4 dryers of the era! Very glad this most recent dryer is gas, cheaper to run. One of my winter projects is extra plumbing and a new laundry sink along one wall of the basement, all for my 50's machines. I measured the wall and the machines, in order from left to right: Hamilton 1951 dryer, 1957 Frogeye suds washer, tub with standpipe, 1959 Whirlpool Imperial suds washer, finally its matching gas dryer.
Thanks for all your KM help and knowledge--
Mark
IT's nice to hear from you and thanks for the info. Yes I'd like the PN for the fun of searching for a rare agitator, but I bet all my KM/WP's have their original tranny's and shafts. Darn, it would be fun if it was an easy swap. And my extra-capacity 1974 suds model would easily take the larger DA agitator, but it's currently got a screw instead of bolt holding on the PENTA SWIRL, and I have never gotten that damn screw off!
I'll steal your name and become KenmoreGuyII I think, 'cause by pure luck and the great KM/WP sales of the 50's to 70's, I have ended up with 5 washers and 4 dryers of the era! Very glad this most recent dryer is gas, cheaper to run. One of my winter projects is extra plumbing and a new laundry sink along one wall of the basement, all for my 50's machines. I measured the wall and the machines, in order from left to right: Hamilton 1951 dryer, 1957 Frogeye suds washer, tub with standpipe, 1959 Whirlpool Imperial suds washer, finally its matching gas dryer.
Thanks for all your KM help and knowledge--
Mark
polkanut
Well-known member
In the winter with incoming cold water temps being 40°F or less in our northern climate I use the warm rinse option to better remove detergent residues from our laundry.
spin problems
The 1959 Whirlpool washer and dryer were working fine until:
No spin. Washer agitates well, pumps out, then the instant the wig-wag left side pops up to pull out the cambar, everything siezes up immediately. Also, the tub is locked solid during agitation, whereas my 1974 Kenmore has some play in it.
So, back to the 1959------IT also needs a new belt, so I'll get one before any dissasembly,is 57" V-belt #14952 correct? But I'm also wondering what to look for as I start repairs----probelms with the tension spring and plunger for the clutch, at the far end of the cam? Or Clutch and brake issues?
Hmmm...
Thanks
Mark
The 1959 Whirlpool washer and dryer were working fine until:
No spin. Washer agitates well, pumps out, then the instant the wig-wag left side pops up to pull out the cambar, everything siezes up immediately. Also, the tub is locked solid during agitation, whereas my 1974 Kenmore has some play in it.
So, back to the 1959------IT also needs a new belt, so I'll get one before any dissasembly,is 57" V-belt #14952 correct? But I'm also wondering what to look for as I start repairs----probelms with the tension spring and plunger for the clutch, at the far end of the cam? Or Clutch and brake issues?
Hmmm...
Thanks
Mark
Spin issues...
Mark,
Such cool machines! It was fun to look at this thread again.
I think you will be surprised how much a new belt will do. The most drag on the belt in the cycle operation is spin start. A sign of an aging or loose belt is a squeal at the switch to neutral drain from agitation and/or during the switch to spin from neutral.
The original belts, which were numbered something like 16192 and 16358, were long ago replaced by 95405, which fits all belt drives from 1956 forward that use the standard pulleys and the "new style" pumps that came out in '56. I think it fits the older models as well. The older belts commonly dried out or snapped. The 95405 has poly wire in it like belted car tires to give it more longevity over the old belts.
I would first lubricate the cam bar travel channels with something like white lithium or rykon grease, and under the basket drive yoke as well. Make sure you get the roller on the support that the cam bar bisects. Then manually activate the spin solenoid plunger by hand and turn the gear case drive pulley to move the spin cam bar in and out of spin. If it engages and disengages easily, your belt is the problem.
You might want to look also at the splines on the brake drum. This area might need lubrication as well.
BUT, start with a fresh belt and see what happens. They can quiet a machine, restore the woos, make the machine operate slightly faster, and make it seem to go from worn and tired to fresh and new again.
Good luck, hopefully this will get you going again. If not, we'll re-examine.
Gordon
Mark,
Such cool machines! It was fun to look at this thread again.
I think you will be surprised how much a new belt will do. The most drag on the belt in the cycle operation is spin start. A sign of an aging or loose belt is a squeal at the switch to neutral drain from agitation and/or during the switch to spin from neutral.
The original belts, which were numbered something like 16192 and 16358, were long ago replaced by 95405, which fits all belt drives from 1956 forward that use the standard pulleys and the "new style" pumps that came out in '56. I think it fits the older models as well. The older belts commonly dried out or snapped. The 95405 has poly wire in it like belted car tires to give it more longevity over the old belts.
I would first lubricate the cam bar travel channels with something like white lithium or rykon grease, and under the basket drive yoke as well. Make sure you get the roller on the support that the cam bar bisects. Then manually activate the spin solenoid plunger by hand and turn the gear case drive pulley to move the spin cam bar in and out of spin. If it engages and disengages easily, your belt is the problem.
You might want to look also at the splines on the brake drum. This area might need lubrication as well.
BUT, start with a fresh belt and see what happens. They can quiet a machine, restore the woos, make the machine operate slightly faster, and make it seem to go from worn and tired to fresh and new again.
Good luck, hopefully this will get you going again. If not, we'll re-examine.
Gordon
Thank you Gordon
I have ordered the #95405 belt, under $6, and will take your advice when it gets here.
Thank you, I'll keep posting!
Mark
I have ordered the #95405 belt, under $6, and will take your advice when it gets here.
Thank you, I'll keep posting!
Mark
mrb627
Well-known member
Slightly off topic...sort of...
But, is there any concern about using an FSP belt or a generic when replacing?
M.
But, is there any concern about using an FSP belt or a generic when replacing?
M.
Non oem belts for WP belt-drives
Malcolm,
I haven't seen a lot of non-oem belts for BDs, but I know that they are out there. I have seen a couple ERP95405 on ebay, which is a common after-market parts company. I would imagine that Supco makes or made one, and possibly RobertShaw and a few others that had certain belt-drive parts.
I did buy a couple ERP belts just for comparison and curiosity not long ago but have not tried one yet. One that I did try was sold like an automotive fan belt, I think it was an AutoFlite 95405 belt. Not quite the same in cogs and exact construction, but I tried one a few years ago and the machine is fine, quiet actually.
The clincher here is that WP still offers the 95405 at my last check this summer, so my view is why buy an imitation when I can still get the right exact spec'd part and its widely available? $6 for a belt for a washer made in 1959 is stupendous that it is still around from the OEM supplier.
Gordon
Malcolm,
I haven't seen a lot of non-oem belts for BDs, but I know that they are out there. I have seen a couple ERP95405 on ebay, which is a common after-market parts company. I would imagine that Supco makes or made one, and possibly RobertShaw and a few others that had certain belt-drive parts.
I did buy a couple ERP belts just for comparison and curiosity not long ago but have not tried one yet. One that I did try was sold like an automotive fan belt, I think it was an AutoFlite 95405 belt. Not quite the same in cogs and exact construction, but I tried one a few years ago and the machine is fine, quiet actually.
The clincher here is that WP still offers the 95405 at my last check this summer, so my view is why buy an imitation when I can still get the right exact spec'd part and its widely available? $6 for a belt for a washer made in 1959 is stupendous that it is still around from the OEM supplier.
Gordon
Need to modify my response from last night...
Mark -
I must have been tired when I was trying to describe the basket drive yoke support in my response above. The yoke itself does not need to be lubricated, but the support it sits on does, as does the cam bar spring (both sides) that looks like a bow tie.
Lubricate the support itself where it rides in the socket at the corner of the gearcase, and lubricate the roller in the middle of the support that rides on the cam bar. Also put a little grease on the underside of both ends of the cam bar spring.
I wanted to be sure I clarified this before my lousy description sent you in the wrong direction.
Gordon
Mark -
I must have been tired when I was trying to describe the basket drive yoke support in my response above. The yoke itself does not need to be lubricated, but the support it sits on does, as does the cam bar spring (both sides) that looks like a bow tie.
Lubricate the support itself where it rides in the socket at the corner of the gearcase, and lubricate the roller in the middle of the support that rides on the cam bar. Also put a little grease on the underside of both ends of the cam bar spring.
I wanted to be sure I clarified this before my lousy description sent you in the wrong direction.
Gordon
Gordon---
I'm doing NOTHING until the new belt arrives, don't worry. My 3 minute look yesterday shows dry dusty areas that should be shiny wet lubed, I've never done anything to the tranny and undercarriage since I bought this, I guess it's time when the belt arrives. The cam bars and that roller are bone dry after 57 years, no surprise.
Other than that, it's been a fine machine, and SUDS!!!!!!Between my hands and your brain, we'll get her washing again soon, THANK YOU!
I'm doing NOTHING until the new belt arrives, don't worry. My 3 minute look yesterday shows dry dusty areas that should be shiny wet lubed, I've never done anything to the tranny and undercarriage since I bought this, I guess it's time when the belt arrives. The cam bars and that roller are bone dry after 57 years, no surprise.
Other than that, it's been a fine machine, and SUDS!!!!!!Between my hands and your brain, we'll get her washing again soon, THANK YOU!
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