70's Lady Kenmore Agitator Removal

[flyingethan]

I measured the outer diameter of the center post at 1 3/4 inches. The machine shop just called me and said that my parts are ready. I plan on picking them up tomorrow. I will post pics when I get the parts back (the tub and base).

I am thinking that painting the post with POR 15 might be good enough. However, I like the idea of applying heat shrink around it. Especially if I use an adhesive and shrink up the material before the adhesive dries. Then when it dries that heat shrink would really be bonded to the post. That is a good idea. I also like the idea of sealing the top and bottom, where the heat shrink ends, with silicone which will really keep the water out. I've yet to find the right size heat shrink but I will keep looking.

 

[flyingethan]

Check out my tub and base. They came out very good. The machine shop used cold rolled steel just bigger than the original center post. They milled the outer diameter of the cold rolled steel tube down to a thickness that would accept the center post tub seal. Then they welded it to the base just past that first relief where the original center post is mounted through (I hope that makes sense) to give it structural integrity. At the top of the post they welded it to the original post, filled it in and ground it flat to the same height as the original center post. The "new" post is a little bit thicker than the old post but is strong and solid.

I have all new seals for the center post and the tub for when I put it back together.

The machine shop repaired the big holes on the rim of the tub (the area where the water inlet sprays the water into the tub/ basket) and the small hole next to the air dome. They cut out the old center post hole and welded in a new steel plate. They cut the correct size hole in the new steel and even created a lip to seat the tub onto the tub seal.

I am very happy with the results. All in all it cost less than I though it would. Especially considering that these parts are N/A.

I have the POR 15 (as well as the de-greaser and metal prep) ready to go. I sanded the base down and I am ready to paint it as soon as I get some dry days (it's been raining here for a while). I got all of that hardened soap scum off of the bottom of the tub and I will paint the exposed metal areas and the small surface rust areas with POR 15 of the tub as well.

I plan on painting a few small areas of the inside of the washer cabinet with POR 15 as well. There are a few small surface rust areas that probably won't cause any future problems but I might as well take care of everything since I have it apart.

I will update when I get the parts painted.

 

[flyingethan]

Nothing new to report. I have been inundated with life so I haven't had the time to continue my project. I hope to continue working on my washer this weekend.

Appliance Express in Airzona is still trying to locate the parts that I need. I have already fixed the parts that I have but I figured I would buy the extras from them if they are in good shape just to have as a backup. We'll see if they come up with the parts.

 

[combo52]

The Lady Kenmore Rebuild

It was fun talking to you the other week Ethan, it is always nice to meet other folks that get excited about restoring vintage machines.

 

I have lots of projects that are on hold, so when you get to it let us all know.

 

John L.

 

[flyingethan]

Hey everybody! First of all I want to give a shout out to Combo52 (John L.). John talked to me on the phone and gave me lots of good advice. Thanks John.

My washer is put back together and working beautifully! If you've been following my project I had serious rust issues on my center post, tub and basket. I had the center post and tub welded on which did wonders. I took my washer completely apart and went through just about everything. I POR 15'd just about all of the tub, basket and the base. If fact, I painted the entire base and basket. We'll see how that works out. I used all new seals on everything and used 100% silicone on all points that could leak. I greased all of the parts that needed to be greased and put it all back together.

My washer is working like new. It's quiet, smooth and leak free. I'm very happy. It's like getting a brand new 1977 Lady K.

Check out my pic of my washer back in it's natural habitat. This forum is awesome and I very much appreciate everyone's help.

I'll post a vid later. I took video of me testing my washer in my driveway and I filmed everything working. Now I can't find that video. That sucks because it showed everything all clean and pretty. O well.

 

[flyingethan]

I found my video. My voice is pretty low so it's hard to hear what I am saying. The water that you see on the machine is because I had failed to hook up one hose and it got water on some of the washer. But there are no leaks and it works good. The agitator is brand new and it does ratchet back when clothes are in the washer. In the video the agitator is not ratcheting due to the lack of clothes.

I can't figure out how to post video's here. Anyone know how to do that?

View attachment flyingethan++7-5-2015-19-15-46.jpg

 

[washerlover]

Ethan, that was quite a successful project and what a beautiful set you have. (I hope someone responds to your question about how to post videos on this site -- I haven't been able to figure it out, either!) Awesome job!

 

[DADoES]

 
Videos can't be uploaded directly like pictures.  Best is place them on a YouTube account.  View your video at YouTube and copy/paste the URL into your AW post.  AW is coded to recognize YouTube URLs and will automatically embed the clip into the post.

 

[70series]

Congratulations on getting that fantastic set up and running again! I look forward to the video.

 

[combo52]

Yay Ethan

Glad you stuck with this project and got it all done, it is always great to see a restoration project finished. I hope you get many good years out of this washer.

 

I would love to have the black lid for the Triple-Dispenser that you have on your machine for a black pair I have, let me know if you would consider trading it for an Avocado one, Thanks John L.

 

[flyingethan]

Thanks everyone.

Combo52, John L., I would love to trade for an avocado lid for the triple dispenser. However, mine is not black. Actually it was white and I painted it black. If you still want to trade let me know.

I will work on the video.

 

[combo52]

76 LKM Washer

Oh, I have a black one the is worn looking, and I had already considered painting it, I will still keep a lookout for an Avocado one, I think that I do have a good used one somewhere, I will let you know if I find it.

 

[flyingethan]

Okay, here's one youtube video. I am in the process of loading another one. Enjoy!

 

[fester]

Thin wall tubing and other useful things

I've had great luck at freeing rusty, stuck parts with either PB Blaster or better still, Aerokroil. It's like WD40 on steroids. TEST ON A SPOT TO BE SURE IT DOESNT REACT WITH YOUR PLASTIC PARTS! It usually doesn't, but better safe than sorry. Also, have you all checked with a custom muffler shop for the stainless steel tubing? 1 3/4" O.D. tubing is a fairly common size for bikes and imports. Their is also an online vendor of exhaust tubing in both stainless and inconell. I'll post a link if I can find it.

 

[flyingethan]

Here is my second vid:



FEster,

I checked and the machine shop guy checked all over the country and we struck out. I am sure that the correct size diameter stainless steel tubing is out there but I couldn't find it. I could have it milled but that could get a bit pricey. My machine shop guy used a slightly bigger (like a sixteenth or eighth inch bigger) diameter size stainless steel tubing. He did a fantastic job of welding it at the base and top. It looks absolutely factory. And it's strong. I also had him weld in (build up) metal where it was missing on my tub. That also came out excellent. All of that only cost me $350. I consider that a deal since those parts are darn near un-obtanium in good condition. Anyways, I used the recommended process for applying POR15 to everything (the same process that body shops use by sanding/ grinding where I needed to, using the correct metal cleaner/ de-greaser, metal prep and painting temps and dry times). So far, so good.

 

[fester]

Stainless tubing

Next time try stainlessheaders .com , burnsstainless.com or globaltecheng.com . Even Summit Racing and Jegs performance have some sizes, but not all gauges / wall thickness choices. These links aren't to the same place I was originally talking about. I can't seem to find the saved link for that, but they should have something that will get you where you need to be.