'73 Frigidaire 1-18 washer; noisy bearing in spin cycle

[drh4683]

Ever since I picked up my first set of Frigidaire 1-18's last summer ('73 models in Avocado), the washer has made quite a loud roaring noise in its spin cycle. Im under the impression that the bearing failed due to excessive belt tention as this machine did have a replacement motor when I got it, however, I had to replace that motor as it was seized. I'd be willing to bet that whoever installed the previous motor had WAY too much tention on the belt and not only smoked that motor, but did the tub bearing in too. A friend of mine told me that there is a special tool needed to remove the water bellows seal (I think thats what he called it) and without this tool, you run the risk of damaging the seal. I assume the seal is still good, its bone dry under the unit, but who knows, moisture could have damaged this bearing too...

I recently picked up a harvest gold 1-18 washer from '72 (no dryer though) and its much much more quiet in its spin mode, so I know I obviously have a problem with my avocado one. Having never pulled one of these apart before other than to install my new motor, I'm looking to get the right advice and buy the correct parts needed to successfully bring the machine back to top condition. Thanks!

 

[goatfarmer]

The special tool is called Bellows pliers. It makes the job of removing the clamp much easier, but you can remove the clamp without them. I think a large pair of Channelock pliers, or even a C clamp will work.

 

[rollermatic]

i know mark michaels has bellows pliers for sale

but he wanted about 40 bucks for them and i have never had an issue removing any off my machines using large channel locks. i might have used vice grips as well. i have taken off 6 or 7 in the last 3 years without a problem.

my 1-18 had the inner bellows as well but i have heard that some don't. inner is even easier to remove due to it's smaller size. i know the outer 1-18 bellows are out there, i think either mark michaels or dave's repair on the web has them.

putting them back on for me was always more difficult. i find the easy way is to cut 4 3/8 dowel rods to snug the tub wall and wedge into the bellows clamp. i put one on which effectively holds the clamp. then i work my way around the tub and clamp using the other dowel rods to push that clamp snug. then the final stick i use to snap that clamp locked. i think i posted a thread on how to do it a year or so ago, probably under a rollermatic heading. nice thing about using wooden dowel rods is they are less apt to damage the bellows rubber if they slip off the clamp. it has worked perfect for me every time!

goatfarmer, looking forward to picking up that 1-18 from you week after next! i am excited about restoring it!

 

[combo52]

NOISEY SPIN BEARINGS ON 1-18

The belt tension does not affect the spin bearings as the spin shaft is driven by the spin roller and not directly by the belt. That said you still have noisy spin bearings, 95+% of noisy spin bearings are caused by water getting in them at some time. If the machine is working well with no signs of leakage it may run a long time as it is, but to replace the sealed ball bearings it takes a complete tear down. Be sure to get a new main seal before you try this as this is a big job you may find that you may need any number of other parts to complete this rebuild.

 

[yogitunes]

Question.......What is involved in repairing a leak on a 1-18?.......the bellows are in great shape, look almost new, the square bolt down platform is sealed tight, top and underneath, but I am getting a drip down the center and onto the rollers.....I am thinking there has to be some sort or center seal leaking, this puppy is all new to me of what I am tearing into, and don't want to rip or tear something by accident if I don't have to....

Thanks

 

[goatfarmer]

I have it sitting in the garage as we speak!

 

[rollermatic]

yogitunes

that's exactly as mine was when i bought it 2 years ago in columbus. bellows were great, i reused them but it had a leak in the main tub seal. that seal is still available from partselect.com, i bought one and used it to rebuild mine. i can probably look up that receipt to get the no. for you. plus i will probably be buying another one when i get this 1-18 from goatfarmer in 2 weeks. they are about 40 bucks.

you have to pull inner tub out which was a job for me to get the tub nut off. i used a 1 1/2 inch socket from work and a lot of cussin! it finally came off. inner tub comes out and that seal sets in a metal framework thing that bolts to the outer tub with about 8 bolts if i remember. i pulled everything off mine for a complete tear down. i cleaned out the seal cradle where the new seal presses into. i have also read here that members use a bit of gasket sealant on the new seal where it presses in to insure no water seeps around outer edges of seal.

to me it was more work than tearing down a 1960's rollermatic. but i took my time (over a year) and just worked on it when i felt like it. and now it runs great! i use it often! not that difficult i guess, but that tub nut can be a bear to loosen!

good luck, i will take pics when i tear down this next one but it will be a good while, probably winter.

 

[yogitunes]

Pete

that would be great if you could get me those numbers, this machine is a blast to watch and play with, I have a window lid also, and hate the thought of what to do with this one thing stopping me from using it......

I had no issues with getting the agitator off, and the inner tub out, thanks to your posts, and seen the bellows for the first time, which look new, its just whats under them that I have not seen, and getting myself into, a little scary, but willing to take my time and try, but I think this main seal is what I need as a last resort to stop it from dripping.....

otherwise a fascinating machine in person to watch, from the top as well as from underneath.....pure genious, and with rollers......like I have to tell you!

I was beginning to think if I couln't fix this, I was gonna take out the insides, and mount it to my work bench, just to admire and watch the mechanism in action...

Thanks again Pete

 

[goatfarmer]

The inner tub nut is UNDER the bellows seal. You must have pulled the tub by removing the bolts that bolt to the support.

 

[yogitunes]

Yes, thats as far as I got, theres 4 or 6 bolts, and then of course the bellows, will I find 1 under another, or is it just 1 on these models, I know some mention having a water bellows and an oil bellows, just curious.......

Thanks for all the info....the more I know, the fewer suprises, I hope....haha

 

[rollermatic]

once you pull off agitator

the water bellows is next to come out, then the oil bellows. i have heard that some models didn't have an oil bellows but mine does. after all that then you remove inner tub from outer tub and you will be looking at the water seal. let me see if i can dig a couple pics here.

 

[rollermatic]

here are pics of mine going back together

took em last year, never posted them.

outer tub after paint job and ready for transmission to go on.

 

[rollermatic]

outer tub inside view

after painting. i put transmission on without the plate that holds water seal at first to get it all aligned.

 

[rollermatic]

close up

view. getting the transmission to align with the bolts and drain slots was a bit of a job. i snugged it down but not tight.

 

[rollermatic]

then i held transmission up against outer

tub using 2/4's. it had to hold tight as all those bolts had to come out again so i could install water seal plate and gasket.

 

[rollermatic]

i also made a rubber gasket to go between

water seal plate and outer tub. used to rubber sheets we sell at home depot in the plumbing dept.

 

[rollermatic]

i see now there are 8

bolts that bolt water seal plate and transmission to frame of outer tub. can't remember if i used new stainless steel bolts are reused the old ones.

i hope looking back on it now that i cut those slots out of the gasket. in case seal does leak this vents water away from bearings. hope i did, not gonna tear it apart to check, itr will be years before seal leaks anyway.

 

[rollermatic]

looking at it close i see i did reuse old bolts.

i always wire brush them with my grinder before using.

man i hope i cut out those 4 slots!

 

[rollermatic]

here is a pic

showing the underside upside down with transmission bolted on.

 

[rollermatic]

better view

of it.i painted it all bright lime green and home depot orange. and trimmed it in light blue.

completely took apart transmission, rollers off etc. pump off and apart. wire brushed the driver wheels (metal one's) with a wire brush in my drill. oiled all bearings even though people are probably screaming now when they read this. i always litely oil all my rollermatic bearings. haven't had any slippage yet and i have 3 out of 6 plus this 1-18 running now.

 

[rollermatic]

pump sump back on

tub bottom had some rust around this area where this plastic sump bolts to it that i had to fix. gave it an extra 6 coats of paint in this area too! bottom little nipple that small plastic water pressure tube hooks to was broken off.

drilled it out with an 1/8 inch drill and simply put new plastic air tube in it and sealed it with silicone.

 

[rollermatic]

put little bluw water canal back on

this keeps any leaking water out of rollers.

 

[rollermatic]

close up of pump

man all those hoses and clamps!

all hoses are the original.

 

[goatfarmer]

I did TONS of those under warranty years ago. Used to put the new seal in place on the outer tub, line up the transmission, and pull up on the spin shaft to start the bolts. I also remember using a 2X4 as a lever, and using my foot to lift the transmission into place.

The early washers didn't use that water diverter tray. The later ones had it, so when (not IF) the washer leaked, it would divert water away from the motor.

The good ol' days......8^)

 

[rollermatic]

here is a pic

with new water seal pressed into it's plate. i think i later took those funky plastic washers out and used smaller ones. can't remember why i used them in first place, it's been a yearago since i rebuilt this 1-18.

 

[rollermatic]

here is other half of water seal

pressed into it's plate. this plate mounts on the bottom of the inner tub.

 

[rollermatic]

another

view.

 

[rollermatic]

and

another

 

[rollermatic]

putting tub nut back on

when i took it off a year earlier i did not have slugging wrench yet. this wrench fits all frigidaire pulsators. 1 1/2 inch. i did not put nut back on as tight as it was originally was. i never do! that nut took me a month to get off!

 

[rollermatic]

here is a pic showing how i use

wooden dowel rods to clamp bellows clamp back on.