A Maytag Lead

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

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OOPSIE

This was GadgetGary speaking above(LOL).

SLAP!

I have to teach someone to log-out when he is done(HaHa!)

Oh Venus dahling, now I know what it it like to have two AW people in one house.
 
Tub Sizes

In that ad they mention two tub sizes...the A806 A608 and A408, vs the A208 A108 and A106. What is the difference in the capacities? I know the newest dependable cares were 2.9 cubic feet, and the models after that, such as the Atlantis were 3.3. What were those old models capacities?
 
The plug-queen at play!

Dryer: 220v to 110v conversion.

Many NYC apts generally have 40a 110/220v service. This is the required minimun. Sizng/capacity assumes gas cooking and heat and hot water (via fossil fuels) provided by landlord.

Using an electic dryer(which may have to be unvented) requires a 30a line. To me that is cutting it a bit too close.

Converting the dryer to 110v lowers the wattage draw of the heater to aproximately 1/4 of its normal 5,000w. Other than the heater, the other components all use 110v, so their wattage will not change.

5,000w heater on 220v +/- becomes 1,488w on 110v +/-. The ohns (resistance) stays constant. Thus the heater plus a 600w motor will function below 20a @ 110v! PERFECT!

Ohm's law calculator in linkie.
Conversion simply entailed heater going fron [L1(hot) and L2 (hot)] to [L1 (hot) and N (neutral)]. this can be seen in the pic on GadgetGary's photo-album of the wiring terminal- block. I took a jummper (grey) and shot the netural (center post) to the blue wire (heater).

I took an air-conditoner extenson cord and removed the male and female ends. It was gauge 12, 20a wire. Then it was just a matter of fitting a 110v plug!

This machine has time/temperature auto-dry that advances the timer when the heater is "off". This is important in that the 60 minute timer becomes woefully inadequate on a pitful < 1,500 watt heat source! The anticipated dryign time will shoot to over two hours form the standard one hour!

Use 220v, 5,000w. Derive ohms (9.68)
Then, plug in ohms with 120v. See resulting wattage!

 
Gadgetswitch

I would contact Steve--(Mayken4now)..He knows everything about vintage Maytags and he is a real nice guy as well.

Have fun fellas!
 
Nice conversion - now you have a hair dryer for laundry ;-) I did this a lot when I had only 120v in the garage.

You can convert most any 220v dryer simply by moving the heater wire over to the neutral terminal and attaching your 120v cord to the L1 & neutral (center post) of the terminal block.

Auto-Dry will probably not work well at all, the temperature will be (slowly) reached but the timer will advance toward off too fast to allow sufficient time for the clothes to dry. You'll have to reset the timed dry cycle... Vintage dryers would commonly have 2 hours and longer on their timers because of the people who didn't have a 30A line for the new dryer or access to gas. I believe GE had a price-leader dryer in 57 or so that came with two cords attached.
 
It is Miss Enthanlpy to you dear. :-)

~Auto-Dry will probably not work well at all, the temperature will be (slowly) reached but the timer will advance toward off too fast to allow sufficient time for the clothes to dry.

HMMMM, I thought it might work in that the timer only advances with this system when the heat is off. We know that won't happen at all in the beginning of the cycle!

The latent heat of vaporization, changing water from a liquid to a gas (vapor), takes a great deal of energy and absorbs heat in the process, therby cooling the drum and out-going air.

I had converted my old GE of the early 60's for a neighbor who needed it. It was an excuse to buy a new one. That model, IIRC had a resistor that kept the amperage down when on 110v. It had a Gansky mentioned, a 2 hr timer and auto dry.
 
I recall reading a service manual (for a Gibson dryer?) that advised when converting it for 110v the auto-dry cycles were not to be used, the gist of which seemed to be due to the machine being unable to hit the target temperature with the reduced heat input (in which case the timer would be forever stalled at the starting point).
 
Can you take a picture of the inside of the washer cabinet

"it looks like the oil is coming from the top of the transmission"

And here is photographic evidence.

Ok out there, is this a big problem? Will the transmission eventually fail?

4-22-2007-18-17-57--GadgetGary.jpg
 
Cycle

We tried the Permanent Press cycle and after the main wash and customary pause, it did the following:
Partial Drain
Fill
Partial Drain
Fill
Quick Drain
Pause
Timer Advance
Full Spin
There was no separate spray rinse and the contents of the fabric softener dispenser did not leave the holding cup until the full spin. Please note all spins above are 'spin' drains, not neutral drains.
It is nice to see a machine that actually uses water to get the job done. I guess according to today's standards, this is not and Energy Star machine(Thank you Lawd!)

4-22-2007-18-27-59--GadgetGary.jpg
 
Wow Gary, what a nice set there! Just love that dryer - so many choices! The features of that dryer, timer wise, almost match completely to the first Maytag electronic controled dryer.

Thanks for the photos!

Ben
 

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