M for an A806 is 1971.
Y is November.
Y is November.
Ok gotcha. Thank you. I'll test them tomorrow and let you know.November, 1971.
The yellow/black and grey wires are the connections we'll be dealing with on the water level pressue switch. You can either remove the wires and tape them together (making sure they have good contact) or run a jumper wire to them. If the machine fires up in the area(s) it's acting dead, you need a new water level switch. If not, we'll keep diagnosing.
So I am just getting around to hooking it back up and testing it. I taped the wires together and it moved to agitate. My question now is...I removed the pressure switch blew in it and covered the hole with my finger after the click. It stays engaged until I remove my finger. If the pressure switch was bad would the click drop even if I had the hole covered?November, 1971.
The yellow/black and grey wires are the connections we'll be dealing with on the water level pressue switch. You can either remove the wires and tape them together (making sure they have good contact) or run a jumper wire to them. If the machine fires up in the area(s) it's acting dead, you need a new water level switch. If not, we'll keep diagnosing.
Yes, after the washer has filled and after the machine has stopped when it should be agitating.Do I do this after the water has filled?
Sorry I just edited that comment.Yes, after the washer has filled and after the machine has stopped when it should be agitating.
The electrical contacts inside the pressure switch are pitted or worn. It's a sealed unit that's unserviceable.I taped the wires together and it moved to agitate. My question now is...I removed the pressure switch blew in it and covered the hole with my finger after the click. It stays engaged until I remove my finger. If the pressure switch was bad would the click drop even if I had the hole covered?