A806 Timer Motor

[DADoES]

M for an A806 is 1971.
Y is November.

 

[qsd-dan]

November, 1971.

The yellow/black and grey wires are the connections we'll be dealing with on the water level pressue switch. You can either remove the wires and tape them together (making sure they have good contact) or run a jumper wire to them. If the machine fires up in the area(s) it's acting dead, you need a new water level switch. If not, we'll keep diagnosing.

 

[melsintexas]

November, 1971.

The yellow/black and grey wires are the connections we'll be dealing with on the water level pressue switch. You can either remove the wires and tape them together (making sure they have good contact) or run a jumper wire to them. If the machine fires up in the area(s) it's acting dead, you need a new water level switch. If not, we'll keep diagnosing.

Ok gotcha. Thank you. I'll test them tomorrow and let you know.

 

[melsintexas]

November, 1971.

The yellow/black and grey wires are the connections we'll be dealing with on the water level pressue switch. You can either remove the wires and tape them together (making sure they have good contact) or run a jumper wire to them. If the machine fires up in the area(s) it's acting dead, you need a new water level switch. If not, we'll keep diagnosing.

So I am just getting around to hooking it back up and testing it. I taped the wires together and it moved to agitate. My question now is...I removed the pressure switch blew in it and covered the hole with my finger after the click. It stays engaged until I remove my finger. If the pressure switch was bad would the click drop even if I had the hole covered?

 

[qsd-dan]

Do I do this after the water has filled?

Yes, after the washer has filled and after the machine has stopped when it should be agitating.

 

[melsintexas]

Yes, after the washer has filled and after the machine has stopped when it should be agitating.

Sorry I just edited that comment.

 

[melsintexas]

I taped the wires together and it moved to agitate. My question now is...I removed the pressure switch blew in it and covered the hole with my finger after the click. It stays engaged until I remove my finger. If the pressure switch was bad would the click drop even if I had the hole covered?

 

[qsd-dan]

I taped the wires together and it moved to agitate. My question now is...I removed the pressure switch blew in it and covered the hole with my finger after the click. It stays engaged until I remove my finger. If the pressure switch was bad would the click drop even if I had the hole covered?

The electrical contacts inside the pressure switch are pitted or worn. It's a sealed unit that's unserviceable.

As luck would have it, there's an NOS pressure switch on Ebay. These were discontinued long ago.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/396841424486

 

[melsintexas]

Thank you so much. Is this your store I'm supporting?

 

[qsd-dan]

No, I just cross referenced the part# to Ebay. Ebay is the sole reason we're able to keep these old machines going. God bless those who didn't throw old parts in the garbage, which is the quickest and most convenient way of getting rid of them.

 

[melsintexas]

Oh gotcha. Yes that is where I found a couple of other parts. You're a doll. I appreciate you so much. Many think I'm crazy for having the passion for this thing that I do. Especially other women who like the newest. This girl is super happy with her A806 and I'm not giving up on it. Thank you so much for your help and support. I'll order this and hopefully we will be back in business.

 

[qsd-dan]

Nothing made today beings to equal this type of build quality, durability, and reliability. It's worth every second and every penny keeping these older machines going. I saved 4 of these sets from going to the crusher and have used one set for almost 20 years now. Not bad for a free 50 year old washer/dryer that almost met its maker.

 

[melsintexas]

Nothing made today beings to equal this type of build quality, durability, and reliability. It's worth every second and every penny keeping these older machines going. I saved 4 of these sets from going to the crusher and have used one set for almost 20 years now. Not bad for a free 50 year old washer/dryer that almost met its maker.

That is amazing. I wish I was having the same luck. I ordered that pressure switch off eBay. Hooked it up and nothing. Taped my wires back together just to make sure and it starts right up. At least on my other pressure switches I could get water to run just not agitate. On my other pressure switch I had grey hooked to 16 and yellow black to 15. I reversed the wires on the new pressure switch and put grey on 15 and yellow black on 16 and finally got it to run water, but same issue, it won't move to agitate.
However, the wiring diagram is showing completely different placement. But clearly it is wrong. I'm so lost at this point.

 

[qsd-dan]

Well, damn. I don't think the pressure switch was your problem, it sounds like something is going on with your air dome pressure hose that connects between the outer tub and pressure switch. It's either clogged or you have an air leak. Try blowing air through the hose on the pressure switch side and make sure air flows freely through it. I also noticed you have an aftermarket clamp on the nipple of the hose on the pressure switch. Make sure the hose fits nice and tight at that connection. The hose connected to the outer tub should also be nice and tight (it uses that annoying spring clamp).

You can test both pressure switches by using a digital multimeter set to the continuity selection. You should hear a beeping tone when both leads are connected together. Connect the leads across (if I remember correctly) terminals 15 and 16 on the pressure switch. There should be no beep. I use and connect a piece of vacuum tubing to the pressure switch and blow through the hose until you hear a click. You should hear the digital meter beep when blown through the hose and the pressure diaphragm clicks. When the air is releases, it should stop beeping when it clicks again.

 

[melsintexas]

Well, damn. I don't think the pressure switch was your problem, it sounds like something is going on with your air dome pressure hose that connects between the outer tub and pressure switch. It's either clogged or you have an air leak. Try blowing air through the hose on the pressure switch side and make sure air flows freely through it. I also noticed you have an aftermarket clamp on the nipple of the hose on the pressure switch. Make sure the hose fits nice and tight at that connection. The hose connected to the outer tub should also be nice and tight (it uses that annoying spring clamp).

You can test both pressure switches by using a digital multimeter set to the continuity selection. You should hear a beeping tone when both leads are connected together. Connect the leads across (if I remember correctly) terminals 15 and 16 on the pressure switch. There should be no beep. I use and connect a piece of vacuum tubing to the pressure switch and blow through the hose until you hear a click. You should hear the digital meter beep when blown through the hose and the pressure diaphragm clicks. When the air is releases, it should stop beeping when it clicks again.

Well damn is right. This is getting crazy. The tube really is the last thing to check. I've got 3 pressure switches including the new one I just received from eBay. I've been through all the testing of blowing and checking for continuity and haven't been able to get continuity on any of them. However, on a whim I just did a continuity test according to the actual wiring diagram I shared above and I got continuity under pressure using 16 and 7. Now to hook it back up and attach the wires according to the diagram and see if we move to agitate.

 

[melsintexas]

Well damn is right. This is getting crazy. The tube really is the last thing to check. I've got 3 pressure switches including the new one I just received from eBay. I've been through all the testing of blowing and checking for continuity and haven't been able to get continuity on any of them. However, on a whim I just did a continuity test according to the actual wiring diagram I shared above and I got continuity under pressure using 16 and 7. Now to hook it back up and attach the wires according to the diagram and see if we move to agitate.

Well hot damn. The wiring diagram is right. Yellow black goes to 16 and gray goes to 7 and brown goes to 15.