whirlcool
Well-known member
76 - 24 hours a day. If we get hot we turn the ceiling fans on, if we get cold we just bump it up to 77 temporarily.
AC Temp setting
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jerrod6
Well-known member
With programmable thermostat the Ac is:
80F From 9am until 11pm. This makes the upper floors of my house about 83F but I am learning to take it.
77F From 11pm until 6am next morning
78F From 6am until 9am
80F From 9am until 11pm. This makes the upper floors of my house about 83F but I am learning to take it.
77F From 11pm until 6am next morning
78F From 6am until 9am
Before it broke down the other day it was at 72. I hate heat and hate humidity even more. It'll be at least 2 weeks before we get the new system installed so hopefully it doeesn't get too too hot in that time.
richardc1983
Well-known member
I have mine set at 22C in the summer, sometimes 23C if I start to feel chilly and in the winter its set at 22C.
The units if set at 22C will aim to cool the room to 21C, but then cycle off and come back on again when the room temp approaches 23C.
If I set to 23C it will cool the room to 22C and then cycle off and come back on at 24C which is too hot.
If I have guests round they think that 22C is too cold.
The units if set at 22C will aim to cool the room to 21C, but then cycle off and come back on again when the room temp approaches 23C.
If I set to 23C it will cool the room to 22C and then cycle off and come back on at 24C which is too hot.
If I have guests round they think that 22C is too cold.
I keep ours at 76˚, the house humidity is around 40 to 45%. Before we got this system (Trane Variable speed) I used to keep A/C at 72˚, but with the variable speed we get better humidity control, so 72˚ is getting cool.
If it's really hot out, I bump it up to 78˚ to help out the power company, and I don't like the big slap in the face when I go outside.
A/C running colder than 70˚ and outside tempts below 50˚is not good for it unless it has a "Cold Weather Kit" on it.
If it's really hot out, I bump it up to 78˚ to help out the power company, and I don't like the big slap in the face when I go outside.
A/C running colder than 70˚ and outside tempts below 50˚is not good for it unless it has a "Cold Weather Kit" on it.
xraytech
Well-known member
I like it cool.
I prefer the ac set on 65 or 66 degrees all the time, plus the Penncrest box fan at the foot of the bed at night also
I prefer the ac set on 65 or 66 degrees all the time, plus the Penncrest box fan at the foot of the bed at night also
westingman123
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2009
- Messages
- 1,541
none!
Just the attic fan baby! I've turned the central air on twice in 15 years.
Just the attic fan baby! I've turned the central air on twice in 15 years.
24degC 75F in Summer
19degC 65F in Winter
19degC 65F in Winter
77*F in summer when at home, higher when not.
The dehumidifier was set to turn on at 10pm and off at 10am. As it cools off outsdie at night (in this climate) the A/C doen't run as much and the humidty creeps up, which is uncomfortable. The dehumidifer keeps it comfortable. The heat it generates (as every watt used is ultitmately turned into heat) helps turn on the a/c (sooner) resulting in more dehumidification.
The dehumidifier was set to turn on at 10pm and off at 10am. As it cools off outsdie at night (in this climate) the A/C doen't run as much and the humidty creeps up, which is uncomfortable. The dehumidifer keeps it comfortable. The heat it generates (as every watt used is ultitmately turned into heat) helps turn on the a/c (sooner) resulting in more dehumidification.
ronhic
Well-known member
We have our winter settings at:
Monday - Friday
- 15c from 11.30pm until 5.30am
- 19c until 8.30 am
- 15c until 5.30pm
- 19c until 11.30pm
Weekends
- 15c from 11.30 until 5.30am
- 19c until 11.30pm
When particularly cold, which it can get in Canberra compared to the rest of Oz, we have a 'hold' button...so regardless of setting we can dial in a temp. and press 'hold'....so we boost it to 21c
...and then we have an open fire that we use about once a week...though it is a major draught creator
..and we don't have central cooling
Monday - Friday
- 15c from 11.30pm until 5.30am
- 19c until 8.30 am
- 15c until 5.30pm
- 19c until 11.30pm
Weekends
- 15c from 11.30 until 5.30am
- 19c until 11.30pm
When particularly cold, which it can get in Canberra compared to the rest of Oz, we have a 'hold' button...so regardless of setting we can dial in a temp. and press 'hold'....so we boost it to 21c
...and then we have an open fire that we use about once a week...though it is a major draught creator
..and we don't have central cooling
richardc1983
Well-known member
What does the actual temperature outside have to do with the temperature you set inside.
I.e if its not too cold outside you set to 19C inside but if its really cold outside you boost it to 21C?
Surely if 19C feels comfortable when its not so cold outside then it should feel ok at colder outside temps as the system will come on longer to maintain 19c?
For example my system is set at 22C for summer and winter, and if it gets colder outside in winter it is still left at 22C no matter what.
I.e if its not too cold outside you set to 19C inside but if its really cold outside you boost it to 21C?
Surely if 19C feels comfortable when its not so cold outside then it should feel ok at colder outside temps as the system will come on longer to maintain 19c?
For example my system is set at 22C for summer and winter, and if it gets colder outside in winter it is still left at 22C no matter what.
From a chart I keep handy:
19C = 66F
24C = 75F
Hope this helps.
Lawrence/Maytagbear
19C = 66F
24C = 75F
Hope this helps.
Lawrence/Maytagbear
mark_wpduet
Well-known member
72 to 74 all the time. Electric bill is usually between 125 to 150! Last month it was 77 dollars because it was cool out and we didn't need the air, I tried bumping it up to 78 one summer and that was TOO uncomfortable. It was almost stuffy. 72 to 74 seems the most comfortable to me. When I used to go to my grandmas house it would be 80 inside her house and she was comfortable, I was miserable
ronhic
Well-known member
Richard.....
....I never mentioned the outside temperature at all in my post...
But since you asked, 99% of homes in Oz don't have double glazing to start with....so the inside temperature is directly affected by the outside even with good loft insulation...
Soooo....if it goes down to -8 o/night, which it does every now and then in winter, the temperature inside will be lower than if it was 6c o/night....
Now, most of these lows occur about 6am in the morning, but from about 2pm, the temperature will steadily drop so that, taking the lower example, at about 8.30pm we could have 2c....which has an effect on the inside temperature of your home....especially without double glazing....(and no, it is NOT affordable here)
....I never mentioned the outside temperature at all in my post...
But since you asked, 99% of homes in Oz don't have double glazing to start with....so the inside temperature is directly affected by the outside even with good loft insulation...
Soooo....if it goes down to -8 o/night, which it does every now and then in winter, the temperature inside will be lower than if it was 6c o/night....
Now, most of these lows occur about 6am in the morning, but from about 2pm, the temperature will steadily drop so that, taking the lower example, at about 8.30pm we could have 2c....which has an effect on the inside temperature of your home....especially without double glazing....(and no, it is NOT affordable here)
Most of the time, none.
I have two small (5500 BTU) Daewoo window units. I take them out in the fall. Last summer I didn't bother installing them back in the windows, and it wasn't too bad. I just vent the house at night, when it's cool, and then shut it up in the morning when I go to work. The extra insulation in the attic keeps the house fairly cool until I come home. I might put one back in this summer, depends on the weather I suppose. But it would probably be a better idea to finish insulating under the floor in the crawl space, instead.
PS-Double glazing is highly overrated, IMHO. The R factor of single pane window glass is about 1. The R factor of double glazed windows might be 2. But the area of the windows is relatively small, compared to that of the walls, ceiling, floor. You get the picture. Important to seal off any air leaks, which is probably the biggest benefit of getting new windows, but more economically done with weather stripping, caulk, and common sense repairs. From what I've read, the order in which to insulate is: ceiling (attic), under floor (if raised foundation), walls, and then finally, windows. In all cases sealing off air leaks should come first.
I have two small (5500 BTU) Daewoo window units. I take them out in the fall. Last summer I didn't bother installing them back in the windows, and it wasn't too bad. I just vent the house at night, when it's cool, and then shut it up in the morning when I go to work. The extra insulation in the attic keeps the house fairly cool until I come home. I might put one back in this summer, depends on the weather I suppose. But it would probably be a better idea to finish insulating under the floor in the crawl space, instead.
PS-Double glazing is highly overrated, IMHO. The R factor of single pane window glass is about 1. The R factor of double glazed windows might be 2. But the area of the windows is relatively small, compared to that of the walls, ceiling, floor. You get the picture. Important to seal off any air leaks, which is probably the biggest benefit of getting new windows, but more economically done with weather stripping, caulk, and common sense repairs. From what I've read, the order in which to insulate is: ceiling (attic), under floor (if raised foundation), walls, and then finally, windows. In all cases sealing off air leaks should come first.
mysteryclock
Well-known member
71 downstairs, 73 up. That 2-degree gap seems to make both units run at about the same rate since the heat naturally rises instead of making one work harder than the other.
jerrod6
Well-known member
I would love to have your electric rates
"72 to 74 all the time. Electric bill is usually between 125 to 150! Last month it was 77 dollars because it was cool out and we didn't need the air"
My bill is over $120 each month without air, so I won't be seeing inside temperatures as low as you do.
"72 to 74 all the time. Electric bill is usually between 125 to 150! Last month it was 77 dollars because it was cool out and we didn't need the air"
My bill is over $120 each month without air, so I won't be seeing inside temperatures as low as you do.
mark_wpduet
Well-known member
Our electric rates are relatively low here. However, in January my electric bill was 305 dollars. I almost passed out! Mind you, this is a single story 1375 sq ft house that is six years old. What happened was my heat pump unit's compressor failed and we were unknowingly using auxiliary heat and it was bitterly cold the entire month. The repair was 950 dollars 
58limited
Well-known member
Right now my t-stat set at 72. I'm slowly increasing it every few days to acclimate myself to a higher temp. I try to end up with the thermostat at a daytime setting where the A/C doesn't run constantly during the day, but in July and August it is too hot outside and the A/C will run most of the day to keep up. I tried to set the thermostat higher during the day (some of you mentioned above that you set yours above 80) but it takes most of the night to cool back down to a comfortable level and I don't sleep too well when it's that warm, even with the ceiling fan.
I used to keep the thermostat set much lower, but I bought a dehumidifier and now the house is comfortable at a higher temperature (we have rather high humidity here by the sea).
I used to keep the thermostat set much lower, but I bought a dehumidifier and now the house is comfortable at a higher temperature (we have rather high humidity here by the sea).
If you have a variable speed system, they really do help when you add a humidistat to it.
The speed on the blower is set to match your system tonnage. Ideal settings is 400 cfm per ton. For humid area, it is set to 350 cfm per ton, and dry area set to 450 cfm per ton.
An example my system is 2 ton, so the blower will move 800 cfm on full speed. Most system has a "profile".. My Trane has "Comfort-R". What happen on that, when the blower starts, it runs at 50% speed for a minute. (Helps get the coil cold) Then is ramps up to 80% speed. (Helps pull humidity out of the air) If the humidistat is used, the blower will stay at that speed till the humidity is below set point. When the time or humidity has met, then the blower will run full speed.
On my system if I start the system, and the house is say 80% humidity, the system will dry it out in about an hour to 40%.
The humidity is your key point of comfort. If the humidity is high, you tend to feel "warmer", and end up turning the stat down lower to get the "comfort" feeling.
I have a link of my system running.
The speed on the blower is set to match your system tonnage. Ideal settings is 400 cfm per ton. For humid area, it is set to 350 cfm per ton, and dry area set to 450 cfm per ton.
An example my system is 2 ton, so the blower will move 800 cfm on full speed. Most system has a "profile".. My Trane has "Comfort-R". What happen on that, when the blower starts, it runs at 50% speed for a minute. (Helps get the coil cold) Then is ramps up to 80% speed. (Helps pull humidity out of the air) If the humidistat is used, the blower will stay at that speed till the humidity is below set point. When the time or humidity has met, then the blower will run full speed.
On my system if I start the system, and the house is say 80% humidity, the system will dry it out in about an hour to 40%.
The humidity is your key point of comfort. If the humidity is high, you tend to feel "warmer", and end up turning the stat down lower to get the "comfort" feeling.
I have a link of my system running.
