Advice on Restoring Maytag A2MP & 60-W

[swestoyz]

Yes, the RMA belt number Greg referenced will work on the AMP's. It will not work on later Helical drive design Maytags, but the helical drive belt I referenced earlier is backwards compatible with the AMP as the helical belt is designed to slip and act as a clutch. AMP's don't need the belt to clutch but the belt is the same physical size.

The part numbers they are referencing by the pound sure sound like wringer grease part numbers. These transmissions were filled with a 70w non-detergent like oil, which is probably what they are referring to as the 'power-unit' oil. It would have been the same oil used in the clutch. The only thing that seals the transmission internally is an o-ring that becomes hard with time, and eventually the transmission oil will seep past this o-ring down the input shaft. This is the Achilles heel to all Maytag automatics (helical and AMP).

There's a good possibility that the o-ring on this Maytag has started leaking.

Ben[this post was last edited: 10/17/2013-13:23]

 

[Unimatic1140]

Congratulations on a wonderful vintage find. I have a similar washer (AMP) and use it from time to time.

Here is the service manual for that washer....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-Maytag-Automatic-Washers-Service-Manual-am-amp-/160726760144?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256c0fbad0

 

[quiggsdj]

Trouble begins

So now I'm starting to run up against the hard decision of whether to restore this thing properly, or just enough to get it running. The oil leak is from a chip/break in the "Rubber stopper for oil pan" {part 2-10696}; this chip is visible top center in the photo. I can do this right (take apart the assembly held together with rusted-out bolts, replace stopper), or fudge it (rubber/caulk, duct tape, etc).

 

[quiggsdj]

And here are some really clogged screens on the water intakes. I'd like to clean/replace them, but that can't be done without removing the entire valve assembly. Again: do I risk it?

 

[quiggsdj]

And here is huge amount of scale on the water pump. This is just external, but it makes me wonder about leakage. I'm tempted to remove and clean, but: risky.

Likewise, the big blue tub had a huge amount of loose scale in it (which I've tried to vaccuum out, rather than have it go through the pump). This is what you get from 60 years of hard water, I guess.

 

[swestoyz]

Hey there -

Sorry about taking a while to get back to you. Actually, things look pretty good! You've got a solid project there judging from the most recent photos.

I was expecting to see more oil on the clutch housing but it seems that it truly was just the stopper that caused the leak. My take on things like this is to do it right and not use a work around. This being because this item will spin and you never know if a work-around is going to hold.

The water valve doesn't look bad at all - just some dirty screens. Pull the valve out or just pull the screens with the valve in place. Clean them (I usually soak them in vinegar when there is scale present but you can try brushing them) and re-install.

The pump doesn't look horribly bad either. The white stuff is excess soap that may have seeped from the gasket or leaked from the tub outlet hose. You mentioned that you tried removing soap scum from the outer tub, so I'm not surprised to see it on the pump as well. I would leave it as is for testing purposes.

Ben

 

[quiggsdj]

First Test

Well, it agitates properly (and the light bulb goes on!), but (1) it doesn't spin and (2) doesn't run the water pump. Based on what I've read here, my diagnosis is (1) the trip lever business needs more lubrication, and (2) the pump wheel needs more friction via a kirby belt.

 

[quiggsdj]

Still no spin

Still no spin. I've manipulated and lubricated the brake arm, trip level and damper collar (per Illus. 27 in Post# 122377 in Thread 5906), and the collar seems to be moving freely (although without disassembly, I can't tell what the full range of motion should be), but still no spin. There's a loud clunk (solenoid I assume), the agitation stops, and there's no other noises (no moaning or clicking) but no spin. Could it be the clutch? Brakes not releasing? Any ideas gang?

 

[quiggsdj]

Postscript

Could this have anything to do with the fact that I'm doing all this with the tub empty, so there's no weight pushing it down into whatever?

 

[Unimatic1140]

Could this have anything to do with the fact that I'm doing all this with the tub empty

No the machine should actually pick up speed faster without the weight of water and clothes.

There is a chance that the brake isn't releasing. With the machine unplugged can you depress the brake release solenoid manually and easily turn the wash basket? Then with it powered on and operating can you see the brake release via the solenoid operate in the same way?

 

[quiggsdj]

Unimatic: "With the machine unplugged can you depress the brake release solenoid manually and easily turn the wash basket?" NO - I can't even budge the basket!

 

[quiggsdj]

update

Unimatic: "With the machine unplugged can you depress the brake release solenoid manually and easily turn the wash basket?" OK, with another person holding the solenoid, the basket can be turned, but just barely.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Sounds like you need to concentrate on the brake assembly. Do you have the service manual?

 

[quiggsdj]

Yes - via Mark K, I have the 1952 AMP manual, which I trust is close enough for this 1953 A2MP.

 

[kenmore71]

Actually the 1952 manual that I sent you contains 7 supplements and covers ALL models (AM, AMP, A2MP, A3MP, A4MP, 101P, 102P and the 121P.  The A2MP gets no mention in that manual but I think that mainly has to do with the fact that, for all intents and purposes, the A2MP was basically an A3MP which was still installed in an original AMP cabinet.

 

[quiggsdj]

Mark - I wasn't sure, because I've seen (on eBay) a manual which lists the A2MP right on the cover (the cover also bears a copyright of 1950, which makes no sense).

 

[d-jones]

<a name="start_48991.710209">(the cover also bears a copyright of 1950, which makes no sense). </a>




As an aircraft mechanic I received numerous revisions to the aircraft maintenance manuals from the manufacturers that had no independent copyright. They were covered under the existing copyright of the manual they were going into. So perhaps the service manual was updated without the need for an entirely new copyright.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Ok, I'm glad you have the manual, I would concentrate on what ever brake issues it might have as a good place to start in troubleshooting.

Mark is correct about the copyright registration, it was appended to the original registration.

 

[quiggsdj]

Unimatic - when you say "concentrate on brake issues" does that mean start taking things apart? I want to try everything there is to try prior to (a) "removing" (i.e. breaking) the agitator, or (b) removing the key in order to remove the big assembly (tubs, tranny etc.)

 

[Unimatic1140]

This older thread might help with the disassembly if it comes to that:

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?3112

I'm note sure if you can inspect the break assembly without taking a bit of the machine apart, I just don't remember, its been at least 8 years since I worked on one of those.